98 SRX 700 test leads and power valves

Yuriy

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I was trying to adjust the power valves using the “home made” test connector by connecting two red wires (sled side) to 12V and the black wire (sled side) 0V. The servo motor was activated and the valves opened up. I adjusted valves 1 and 2 for proper clearance then when I got to the 3rd valve I noticed that it is fully opened and even when I turn the cable tensoner on the servo motor all the way in I still wasn’t able to acquire any clearance. It almost seems that the servomotor is overturning. Could this be caused by the “home made” test connecter? Also the manual states that when the test connecter is connected the water temperature light supposed to flash 3 times. The light on my sled doesn’t flash. I checked the bulb its good. Any thoughts, thank you.
PS is there anything special in the test connecter I believe it’s just a voltage conductor conducting 12V to two red wires (sled side) and 0 volts to the black wire (sled side). If anyone has this connecter please let me know if the 2 terminals that connect to the two red wires (sled side) are shorted together, thank you.
 

first off the connector is easy to use but to me its a hassle never did make one....idle the sled under 900 rpms will do the same thing then mark the servo and pulley then you are good to go for adjustments....check to make sure the cables are in the proper places on the pulley 2 go in one spot and the 3rd goes in the other spot....also check the cables for fraying .....i believe daman has a posting on this which one goes where...
 
I did pull the cover off of the servo motor the cables are all in the proper position (according to the manual). Is it possible to adjust the valves while the engine is running? I am not sure I understand "mark the servo and pulley then you are good to go for adjustments" could you please explanin. Also what do you mean by fraying - I visially inspected the cables they look mint. What bothers me the most is that I can't make any adjustment on valve 3 because the cable is pulled in all the way, I cannot loosen it any more due to tensoner being turrned in all the way. Usually the problem is the other way around you wouldn't have enough tension on the cable (old stratched cable..etc) but not this time. Thank you.
 
sorry for the bad explaining what you do is have all the power valves in engine start and idle to below 900 rpms what this does is activates the servo motor same as when you put power to it....then you kill the sled and mark where the servo motor and pully are have a reference mark....you do not need to do this step anymore as you have the mark to go by....then you can adjust your cables anytime by turning the servo by hand to your marks.....sounds to me like the cable is on the wrong notch in the pulley because its pulling tighter then it should....
 
it might be the homemade harness,the proper one has a inline fuse and resistor . the full 12v is probally just turning the servo until the cables stop it.the 900 rpm method is the easyest way, just start the sled ,idle it down to under 900 and the servo will go to full open position . then you can shut the sled off ,mark the pulley and housing so you will know if the pulley moved during adjustment.
 
ya sometimes it will turn back on you if you go a little too tight on the cables grap some priers turn it back to your mark.....use 2 2.5 mm allen wrenches between the power valve housings then your good to go.....now you have the mark a power valve adjustment only takes like 10 min....
 
Thank you, I think I got it, I didn't know that the calble had a resistor in it. I will start up the sled idle it down to 900rps shut it off mark the pully for the reference position than make my adjustmenst. is the temperature light supposed to blink during the start or it only lights up when there is a problem. Thanks.
 
should get 3 blinks at startup i believe its a self test to make sure the bulb and system work.....any other ?'s post em theres lots of knowledgeable people on here
 
Thank you for the information. I will do the valve adjustment tomorrow, the only thing that frightens me at this point is that I don't recall seeing the temp light blinking during the start up, I did test the bulb and it's operational, well I'll start with the valves. Thank you again for the input, this is my first SRX and I am just getting familiar with it.
 
When you let the engine drop in RPM below 900rpm you will see the motor turn the wheel ( lack of a better description ) then mark the wheel with a dot from a marker ( sharpie ) and put a mark on the plate behind the wheel. dot on dot sort of, so if you have to adjust the valves again you just take some pliers and turn the wheel without starting the engine or usingbant home made device..
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Cool, thanks guys can't wait till the day is over so I can get home and start the procedure.
 
Well this is starting to get challenging. I started the sled reved it down to 900rmps the motor retracted I made my mark and start adjusting the valves. After I was done with adjustment I started the sled and observed the motor (servo) movement as I was accelerating. Everything was cool even the water temperature light came on and blinked 3 times at the start up. Then the things started getting strange, as I was giving the acceleration to the engine the servo was adjusting not as smooth as it did in the beginning and the light was trying to blink somewhere within 3-4K rpms. After running the sled for couple of minutes I noticed that the servo motor was moving less and less with me reving up the engine until it (servo) finally stopped responding to any throttle manipulation. The only way to get the servo to move was to shut the sled off and let it sit for a few minutes than start it. Since I observed the servo motor movement I concluded that this might be not a servo motor problem but a servo motor control problem. I checked the connections between the servo and the computer they were fine. The manual suggested checking the servo motor coil continuity/resistance. Recommended resistance on the magneto side according to the manual is 1.472-1.799 at 68F the reading that I was getting in my cold garage on the warm sled was between 1.8-2.0 and what significant is as the engine was cooling down the reading was getting lower (remember starting the sled wile its cold the servo was working fine, it craps out when the engine has been running for a wile). Another thing that was not clear in the manual is the check of the DC regulator to which the connection (resistance of which I was checking) gets connected to. Basically the other side of the servo motor coil located in the magneto. I didn’t get any reading on checking the connection on the DC regulator side, got open circuit is it normal? To sum this up I think ether the servo coil is out of specification an as the motor gets warm the coil gets more and more out of spec thus preventing the servo from operation, or the DC regulator is toasted (does anyone know how can I check it), or the computer is done. Any ideas?
 
Did you clean the power valves before re-adjusting them? I thought I'd ask because it wasn't mentioned that they we're cleaned. Your valves might be sticking if your servo motor is not responding quickly.
 
Yes I did clean the valves they move freely. As far as te harness I was taking the motor out for a rebuild and the harness looke fine unless something happened to it during the 30 miles that I've put on after the rebuild. Do you know how to test the DC regulater and what is it's role in the PV circuit? What do you think about the coil reading that gets out of specification as the engine warms up. Servo works like a champ on the cold engine as soon as the engine warms up servo responds less and less and then aventually stops responding at all untill the engine is off and cools down than it's (servo) back to normal.
 
dc regualtor wont be bad unless the wiring harness is rubbed thru.

i would find another cdi box and retest, this is very common on the 98-99 sleds the engine will run ok, but the powervalve servo motor recieves the signal to open from the cdi box.

you could check your voltage output cold at the servo from the cdi and keep the probes on there till its warm and see if you have a voltage drop, if you do then I would definitly look for a another cdi box.
 
dc regulator controls the voltage from the stator for the servo motor and fuel guage.
 
Which wires are the voltage control wires that I should concentrate going from CDI to servo? As far as I understand the servos get their control votage from CDI, CDI monitors the servo coil located in the magneto and sends the control votage to the servos based on the reading from the magneto. What I got so far is the volage reading on the servo coil (magneto) balances on the higher limits (cold) and than falls on its face as the sled warms up (hotter the temperature greater the resistance). When the sled is cold I get about 1.7 ohms reading on the servo coil and it runs fine as the sled warms up ther reading goes up to 2 ohms and the servo stops opperating (manula limits for the coil reading are 1.47-1.79 ohms). I am wondering if it's the coil that sends the wrong reading to CDI which in tern converts it in a wrong signal for servo.
 
Which wire should I check the voltage drop on (servo motor has a harness with 4 wires and a separate sper connecter with one wire white/red). What is the voltage drop should be?
PS I will be checking the voltage drop in reference to the groun, correct?
 


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