cacsrx1
New member
How do you separate the valve from the cable?? -----Also, on a side note the powervalves look perfect every time I go to clean them. I dump in about a half a can of "Seafoam" everyother tank of fuel and use regular old Yanalube oil. The valves are oily but not one bit of hard crusty carbon like I have seen on many others. 
you have to pull the slack up on them and you will see it has a lead part on the cable that hooks in like a throttle cable or a brake cable on a bike.
Hebi
New member
cacsrx1 said:
98srx6
New member
The self cleaning claim is BS...it is always best to manually clean your valves every ~1000 miles.
Brad_69
New member
98srx6 hit the nail on the head. I have put 9600 mile on my 00 SRX and had to replace the power valves once. I didn't clean mine once after 1500 mile use w/ klotz oil. The valves (2) were stuck and (1) the cable pulled through.
Some people have good results using Klotz, some don't it seems like. My sled has run Klotz since I got it, and I put on about 1300 miles without cleaning the valves, took them out and they were fairly dirty. I took them out again this summer after another 500 miles and they were about the same again. I didn't run any Seafoam through my sled last year, but did in the previous year. I think that may have helped a bit, as I had no problems running the sled for those 1300 miles without cleaning them.
jvizzacc
New member
BTW - I've heard of a lot of different ways to clean the Power Valves. I elected to use the "wire brush on a drill" method. This worked great, and combined with some brake cleaner got those babies sparklin'! But I noticed one thing ... There seemed to be some spots on the PV that the wire brush may have worn off a coating of some kind? Like a teflon or something like that? Is this a problem?
98srx6
New member
I use a manual wire brush and clean them very carefully to not damage the PV. I think this is a much safer method than using a wire brush on a drill.
BTW...Maybe I am doing this wrong, but I dont clean mine to a shine, I just get them to the point where there is nothing built up on them, and they have a consitant texture (eg. no rough spots), then call it good.
BTW...Maybe I am doing this wrong, but I dont clean mine to a shine, I just get them to the point where there is nothing built up on them, and they have a consitant texture (eg. no rough spots), then call it good.
Hebi
New member
The owner's manual for the '04 Viper S says every 2,000 miles.98srx6 said:
As far as oil, I would stick with Yamalube 2S. Thats not to say that other brands such as Klotz or Amsoil are bad, but Id stick with Yamaha's oil.
I look at it this way: for one, those engines were designed and tested using Yamalube and two, I would feel much more comfortable using an oil that Yamaha puts their name on. If lots of people had problems with burning down engines using Yamalube, it makes Yamaha look bad.
At the same time, I could understand why people would want to use something other than Yamalube. It is kind of expensive. The last time I bought oil I was able to get Yamalube 2 S for $16.73 a gallon. I dont think thats all that expensive when you consider that Polaris Blue (petrolium-based oil) is $14 a gallon, Polaris Gold is $26 a gallon and Polaris VES II is $35 a gallon.
When I said that YPVS was "self-cleaning", I never meant to imply that they never need cleaning. However, it seems like they dont require cleaning as frequently as some other variable-exhaust designs.
Hebi
jvizzacc
New member
What's there to damage? They're hunks of steel. The only thing that concerned me was this coating that I thought I saw. Can anyone comment on this?
Thanks
Thanks