Ok, I've got a hand-me-down Toro SnowMaster 20 snowblower. I've used it probably for the last 2 winters no issues. I've used it already this season no issue. I couldn't get it to run last night or this morning. I pulled the carb and cleaned it. I can get it to fire using some starting fluid but it dies out. I picked up a primer diaphram kit this morning and put it in. I thought maybe the primer diaphram was gone. It didn't look in good shape so it probably needed it regardless.
But I'm in the same spot as before. It's almost as though it's not getting fuel. These don't really have a fuel pump that I can see. It's a gravity style tank, I think. Of course the throttle is controlled by a flapper that moves due to the "wind" off the recoil. Could that not be responding and opening up the jets? There aren't really any adjustments to be made on the carb. There are two air screws. I thought I read somewhere for these to be 1 turn out and that's where they are.
I'm stumped fellas and could use some help. Thanks!
Doug
But I'm in the same spot as before. It's almost as though it's not getting fuel. These don't really have a fuel pump that I can see. It's a gravity style tank, I think. Of course the throttle is controlled by a flapper that moves due to the "wind" off the recoil. Could that not be responding and opening up the jets? There aren't really any adjustments to be made on the carb. There are two air screws. I thought I read somewhere for these to be 1 turn out and that's where they are.
I'm stumped fellas and could use some help. Thanks!
Doug
Fuel filter clogged, Does fuel run out of those hose connected to the carb? Float stuck? choke working properly?
choke cable works the "butterfly". No fuel filter. Fuel run out of the tank to carb gas line.
It's a little single cylinder 2-stroke. pretty basic. Has spark. the "controls" are all plastic mounted on the back so to start it you have to put it almost completely back together. I maybe changing that and removing the controls and mounting them and making access to the motor if I get my other chores done around the house.
Rustman
New member
id bet on an air leak in the fuel delivery system somewhere. Also, a 2 stroke snowblower engine? Ive never seen one 2 stroke, do you have to pre-mix your fuel?
-Rustman
-Rustman
it's premix. It's a little single stage blower. it's barely bigger than a weed-whip motor.
Rustman
New member
ok that makes more sense now, I'm used to running a 13hp ariens. We need it here. It still sounds like a leak in the lines to me. Can you see the lines clear enough to see if there are any bubbles or indication that the fuel is moving?
-Rustman
-Rustman
unfortunately it's a black rubber fuel line. It's got to be a fuel delivery problem.
horkn
New member
Rustman said:
There are tons of 2 stroke snowblowers out there. They have been very popular for a good decade. You basically have to buy a big one to get a 4 stroke now.
Yes, the 2 strokes are all pre mix. I have not seen one yet that has oil injection. oil injection would add cost, so at that point you might as well throw a 4 stroke on the blower from the manufacturer's viewpoint.
horkn
New member
dnale said:
I agree that it does sound like it is not getting fuel. It should be gravity fed, so no pump to go out.
thanks horkn. That's what I thought.
Try leaving the gas cap loose and trying it. I had a snowblower that the gas cap wasn't vented properly so it couldn't send fuel to the carburetor. As soon as I cracked the gas cap loose, it would run like a champ until I tightened it. It would continue to run for about 20 seconds and then sputter and die. I ended up getting a different style of gas cap that fit and was vented correctly. Never had a issue again. Give it a try!
dnale the motor that is in your snowblower is made by Techumseh and is about 3hp. I used to have 3 of these and have worked on them many times...
When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the fuel screws? when/if you did, did you notice the little black orings that are supposed to seal the screws? Just making sure you put them back in place and are not dry rotted, also did you blow air through the passages? Because really they are fuel passages and not air passages.
If so then there is a possibility that you may have developed a crank seal leak causing your unit not to run by not wanting to make enough vacuum to to draw the fuel mixture into the crankcase.
When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the fuel screws? when/if you did, did you notice the little black orings that are supposed to seal the screws? Just making sure you put them back in place and are not dry rotted, also did you blow air through the passages? Because really they are fuel passages and not air passages.
If so then there is a possibility that you may have developed a crank seal leak causing your unit not to run by not wanting to make enough vacuum to to draw the fuel mixture into the crankcase.
I tried the vent cap lose.
I looked at the rubber o-ring's and they looked good. I didn't blow any air through it though the passages. I'll give it a shot maybe tomorrow morning.
I hope it's not a crank seal...I'm debating if it's worth my time. Darn thing did run so good.
I looked at the rubber o-ring's and they looked good. I didn't blow any air through it though the passages. I'll give it a shot maybe tomorrow morning.
I hope it's not a crank seal...I'm debating if it's worth my time. Darn thing did run so good.
I know what you mean(about running so good). I had a Toro 620 that was in storage until this year, A co-worker of mine knows that I work on small engines and asked me to look at his "couple year" old Toro CCR-2450 snowblower, so I did and found that the there was multiple things wrong with the motor. The seal behind the flywheel went taking out the crankbearing and when I pulled the crankcase apart I found that the rod end cap had just about fallen off(main cap bolt fell out).
IF you have ever pulled a small engine apart you'll notice that there are some differences between them and our sled motors.
With the rod end cap coming apart it spit all of the roller beaings out and trashed the rest of the motor, So I let the guy know what was wrong and how much to fix and he said, you can keep it if you want to I'm not going to invest a couple hundred dollars into it, I only paid a couple hundred for it.... So I bought a fresh motor for it and fixed it up and sold him my old 620.
IF you have ever pulled a small engine apart you'll notice that there are some differences between them and our sled motors.
With the rod end cap coming apart it spit all of the roller beaings out and trashed the rest of the motor, So I let the guy know what was wrong and how much to fix and he said, you can keep it if you want to I'm not going to invest a couple hundred dollars into it, I only paid a couple hundred for it.... So I bought a fresh motor for it and fixed it up and sold him my old 620.
staggs65
Moderator
i just had the same problem, cleaned the carb on my blower (5hp 4 stroke), then it wouldnt run, i had it apart 3 times wasn't getting fuel in the bowl, mine had a check valve built into the fuel fitting on the carb that stuck after i cleaned the carb, blew air and fuel through the fitting with a piece of tube with some gas in it and my compressor (psi set low of course), been fine since. might not be the same on yours but worth a look