Possible quick carb cleaning on Vmax ER?

Some guys turn them out a little more to help with the mid range burble (reed spacers should help this a lot) as well as helps with that idle hang you mentioned.
 
I just don't know what to do now. Is the idle hang normal? Plus, maybe this sled was running lean before I even bought. I checked the plugs and they seemed fine on the day I bought it. But it was very warm out and I couldn't get any good revs past 4k cause there was obviously no snow. What should I do? Do u think lifting my needle will solve it? Or should I be taking the whole thing apart again?
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
Some guys turn them out a little more to help with the mid range burble (reed spacers should help this a lot) as well as helps with that idle hang you mentioned.
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So, are u saying that turning the air screws out a bit helps with the idle hang? Or do the reed spacers help with the idle hang? Should I put the air screws back to 2 turns out? But won't this make my leaner condition worse?
 
By air screws your talking about the fuel screws right? Bottom of carbs out side of the bowl towards the front of carbs. Turning them out will richen them up. Turning them out will help will help with idle hang. Reed spacers help burble but don't have anything to do with idle hang as far as I know.
 
Theres a handful of causes for idle hang so theres a handful of cures. You can try turning the idle way down, you can go a size up on the pilots, as well as some guys have had issues with the TPS sensor causing it. My girlfriend (rides like a granny) rides a 2000 SxR that I went up on pilots and screws set at 2 turns out and works for me. Figured with her granny riding I would rather have it on the fat side than lean.
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
By air screws your talking about the fuel screws right? Bottom of carbs out side of the bowl towards the front of carbs. Turning them out will richen them up. Turning them out will help will help with idle hang. Reed spacers help burble but don't have anything to do with idle hang as far as I know.
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Yes, that's them. So turning them back out will help richen it a bit? I always thought that it was the opposite. Thought those screws allowed for more air. So they allow for more fuel by opening them up more ( loosening them)?
 
Stock fuel screws for a viper are 1 7/8 turns out. But most guys including myself run them at least 2 turns out. Idle hang on these vipers is very common, and a long standing problem. If your only hanging at 2 grand or so and its comming down turn the screws to 2 and go from there, should clean up. If it still hangs a bit dont worrry just blip the throttle when comming to a stop and it will go away. Through many debates and wise men from here it is determined that the hang is from a sweet spot in the pipes and the engine happens to like that sweet spot and hangs up there when warm. Another fix is to turn idle down to 1200 as i do and i hardly ever hang up now.
 
Thanx. You guys are A1. I really appreciate all the help. Hey, could u guys tell that I was panicking a little bit there? LOL. Thought the lean condition might have been something more serious. The season is just starting up here. I don't wanna have to get into crank seals and stuff like that right now. Thanx again.
 
Ugh! It's stilling running a touch lean. I turned the air/fuel screws out to 2 1/8 turns. It didn't solve the problem. I'm not sure what to do. I can't find any air leaks. All 3 cylinders are reading the same.
 
Which side is PTO? This is terrible. This is the exact mess that I wanted to avoid. Are u guys sure that turning the air/fuel screw out ( counter clockwise, loosening, backing off, etc...) will help richen it? This just doesn't make any sense to me. Everything was thoroughly cleaned, no air leaks, put the air/fuel screws back to 2 1/8. Still have dry plugs with a whitish ridge around electrode. Of course, just in time for the trip that I'm supposed to go on tonight. But I'm definitely not going. No way will I be riding lean. But I dont know how I should go about fixing this. So, non of u guys had to re jet after installing read spacers?
 
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yes, turning the screws out/ counterclockwise richens your idle circuit. they are fuel screws, not air screws so the further you open them the more fuel you get. you may need to clean the carbs again. Some bad ones need a few cleanings because crap from the fuel system before the carbs clogs things back up before you get fresh clean fuel.
 
Ok. I'm ganna try cleaning them again. Was thinking of lifting the needles, but it seems like a nightmare job compared to changing main jets. But I'll try cleaning them again. I don't think they're dirty tho cause all 3 cylinders seem to be burning the same.

Also, for future reference, I'm new to sledding, but not new to 2 strokes. So I'm pretty capable on doing mechanical work. But, which side is the PTO side? Like u mentioned, I'm new to sleds. Thanx.
 
Terrence R said:
Which side is PTO? This is terrible. This is the exact mess that I wanted to avoid. Are u guys sure that turning the air/fuel screw out ( counter clockwise, loosening, backing off, etc...) will help richen it? This just doesn't make any sense to me. Everything was thoroughly cleaned, no air leaks, put the air/fuel screws back to 2 1/8. Still have dry plugs with a whitish ridge around electrode. Of course, just in time for the trip that I'm supposed to go on tonight. But I'm definitely not going. No way will I be riding lean. But I dont know how I should go about fixing this. So, non of u guys had to re jet after installing read spacers?
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That fuel screw only effects the idle circuit. Has nothing to do with running too end. That is needles and main jets. If indeed you are running lean on top end its either the needles were changed as it was common when gas was good to lower the needles and lean them out or your mains are plugged or also changed. You have to be on a long WOT run to get to the mains. My guess is needles. And turn that fuel screw back a bit, I wouldn't go over 2 turns.
 
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