New to me toy.

Ya they really do take a good beating. I spent thousands on my srx with genuine parts of course and didn't even get to the engine. I too like my sleds to be reliable (I think we all do) but it does add up quick!
 

I've been disassembled the rear suspension as to see what style of bearings I need and what bushings are toast. I was able to find all my bearings locally. Witch is good as I live in the middle of nowhere and wasn't very patient. I'm installed the more expensive NSK bearings everywhere except for one exception. The two inside boggyies that help unload the track of the sliders. They got 3$ National bearings.

At this point, and because I just finished an expensive classic car restoration. I will only repair my existing front W arm.
I have plenty of welding skills, a MIG welder and lots of steel to build in some reinforcements. Yes it is not long term fix but it will get me threw one season easily without going over budget. New ones are expensive. It can wait till next year.
On an other point I realized my forward four boggles don't have tipical ball bearings set up. Are these bushing style replaceable? The wheels are in good shape the bushing are Ok, but ofcourse old. Can I lube them up?
That's where I'm @.
 

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Vincent said:
I've been disassembled the rear suspension as to see what style of bearings I need and what bushings are toast. I was able to find all my bearings locally. Witch is good as I live in the middle of nowhere and wasn't very patient. I'm installed the more expensive NSK bearings everywhere except for one exception. The two inside boggyies that help unload the track of the sliders. They got 3$ International bearings.

At this point, and because I just finished an expensive classic car restoration. I will only repair my existing front W arm.
I have plenty of welding skills, a MIG welder and lots of steel to build in some reinforcements. Yes it is not long term fix but it will get me threw one season easily without going over budget. New ones are expensive. It can wait till next year.
On an other point I realized my forward four boggles don't have tipical ball bearings set up. Are these bushing style replaceable? The wheels are in good shape the bushing are Ok, but ofcourse old. Can I lube them up?
That's where I'm @.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with that. If you reinforce it right, it will be better than a new one.
 
Rear suspension is completly disassembled. Good thing to as 80% of the plastic bushings were shot.The end shaft with the four boggy wheels had everything seized solid so it took a while to get it apart.
All wheels have new NSK the bearings now. New track looks so bad a$$ compared to the original! Tomorrow my new chaincase seals will arrive and I'll be able to reassemble the driveshaft, Jackshaft, track and chaincase. Yay for progress!
 

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Is there a reason you removed the drop brackets with the suspension instead of just unbolting the cross shaft? Those are special steel rivets put in at the factory. You want to make sure you use an equivalent when putting it all back together.
 
I still need to make a bushing parts list and match them to the appropriate part numbers as to order everything after. If I understand your idea, you rap a strip of aluminum can around the shaft to tighten up your plastic bushings? Thanks for any helpful hints.

As for the drop brackets. The ones at the bottom right, 1st pic correct? Yes I jump the gun there. I didn't need to remove them. Shows my inexperience with snowmobiles. But mine were not riveted. Just three bolts on each side.
 
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Thanks for all the links and advise guys.
After work snowmobile work. That sounds weird eh?
Chaincase has new bearings and seals.
Cleaned alot of grime, evergreen needles, leafs, gear oils small branches etc..., from the sleds aluminum chassis. Now it shines!
Got the driveshafts, chaincase clutch side bearings and new track in!

P.S. This is so much fun.
 

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Vincent said:
I've been disassembled the rear suspension as to see what style of bearings I need and what bushings are toast. I was able to find all my bearings locally. Witch is good as I live in the middle of nowhere and wasn't very patient. I'm installed the more expensive NSK bearings everywhere except for one exception. The two inside boggyies that help unload the track of the sliders. They got 3$ International bearings.

At this point, and because I just finished an expensive classic car restoration. I will only repair my existing front W arm.
I have plenty of welding skills, a MIG welder and lots of steel to build in some reinforcements. Yes it is not long term fix but it will get me threw one season easily without going over budget. New ones are expensive. It can wait till next year.
On an other point I realized my forward four boggles don't have tipical ball bearings set up. Are these bushing style replaceable? The wheels are in good shape the bushing are Ok, but ofcourse old. Can I lube them up?
That's where I'm @.
Click to expand...

those plastics in the centre come out to get at the bearing on the wheels in the pic. if they are loose on the steel collars (and they usually are) you can order the 2010 apex billit wheel mount kit to replace them with and eliminate them entirely. mount kit part # is in this write-up I did on it http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/97325-idler-wheel-bushings-mod-proaction
 
Awsome thanks.

Evening progress.

P.S. I lost the little spring that goes between the two small gears for your reverse. Others wise I would have installed the cover and filled it with oil by now. D'oh!
 

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Just did two orders of parts. First one from Royale Distributing . For two blue coloured sliders, brake pads. And two rear suspension straps. 135$ with taxes. Ouch.
Next one is all my required rear suspension bushings from my local Yamaha dealer. Also has my lost reverse gear spring and the aluminum collar for the secondary clutch.That one was 220$ with taxes. Double Ouch! No boggy wheels ,shocks or track neither. Plus 120$ worth bearings and seals. Forgot how expensive this hobby gets quickly.
 
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Yes it certainly all adds up. At least you get free shipping from royal....I just went over the $2k mark for my 540 build today. Lol
 
That looks like you may have too long a chain in the chain case for your gear ratio? that's a lot of bend around the tensioner. it adds friction to the driveline and extra wear on the chain. my sled came back from the shop with a new chain that was too long. up to 60 teeth you can run 68 links, 61 teeth and then 70 links. my tensioner roller was seized and flat spotted. I don't know if the long chain cause it but it couldn't have helped. I was very unhappy the dealer sent it out the door that way to boot. just running on a track stand to set tension and alignment after getting it back from him and my dipstick was covered with shavings.
photo 4_3.jpg
that's a 68 link chain on 20/39 gearing with the tension set. For the most part mountain sleds will be the only ones running tall enough gearing to run a 70 link chain unless you have some kind of special setup in a drag sled or pull a sleigh.
 
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Well you are right on the # of links. It's a 70. My gears are the stock 22 / 39. Based on what your saying it should be the correct chain. I'm guessing the chain is well worn to be that long. Would it be OK with a new 70 link chain? More money I don't have. Crummy.

On another subject I received my delivery from Royale D.
I've already installed my new brake pads, and new blue sliders. They look really cool. Colour adds alot. I'd post pix but the format for manage attachments has changed and when I press on the +add file button it no longer does anything.
 
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Just checked my Clymer yamaha shop manual on an unrelated matter. I saw a picture of a chaincase with reverse with what is probably a 70 link chain. The photo looks exactly like mine with the same arc around the idler wheel. Just goes to show, different set ups are exactly that.
 
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If it's the right link length then it is what it is, just worth checking out since it's all apart. If you can get ahold of the yamaha shop manual it has a section about measuring a given number of chain links to determine if its still in spec. You can always take it back out and give it the droop test. hold it horizontal from one end with the link pins vertical and see how much it sags. If it has excessive slop then it's due to be replaced. If you end up in a jam I have the new 70 link chain I took out that I'll let go cheap.
 
Some progress. Still waiting on my order of bushings. Changed the forward four boggy wheel bearings. Thanks for the advise on that.
 

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