MYSETRY CLUTCH ISSUES - Your thoughts & advice much appreciated.

happyhab

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MYSTRY CLUTCH ISSUES - Your thoughts & advice much appreciated.

'99 Venture 700 elec start & reverse

I did a 125km ride today and fought the clutch all day long, never worked right from the start, burned double the fuel with ease, maybe more. I'm a little frustrated because I just rebuilt the clutch a couple weeks ago and on the first ride after the rebuild, I had amazing results. I modified the weights and got a fantastic result in drivability and fuel economy savings of 20-25%. WOT rpms 8500.

Here is my original post about the clutch before rebuilding:

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...ary-Clutch-NIGHTMARE-Advice-Please-amp-Thanks

Since that one and only run, I had replaced the inner sheave in order to reinstall the ring gear and get the electric start functioning again. The ring gear had let loose on the previous owner and he messed up the replacement so badly that he ruined all the threads on the inner sheave and cracked through the bottom of all the holes because he didn't chip out the solidified loctite. Also, the ring gear was lose for long enough that it deformed the outer edge of the sheave where they seat together, so I was doubtful that it wouldn't just work itself lose again. I ordered the new OEM sheave and 6 new screws and loctited them all in and let it cure for 3 days. No more ring gear issues (I hope).

So primary & secondary have both been rebuilt. The belt is within spec and was the same belt from the previous successful drive. I also swapped belts halfway through the trip and it made no difference. I checked belt temp, clutch temp during the ride with my son's '00 Vmax 600 and didn't feel anything out of the norm.

You can see by the picture (ignore the dirt, we had just pressure washed the trailer grime) that the primary is not engaging all the way whereas before I replaced the inner sheave and was still running the old one, but with ring gear removed, it worked amazingly. The surfaces both have the same finish, which is quite smooth. When I rebuilt the clutch I used a right angle air die grinder with a 2" scotch bright pad to clean the surfaces, and again, it worked flawlessly. All that has changed is the new inner sheave. When I remove the belt, I can depress the clutch just fine, nothing is binding and the bushings are new. I just can't believe that with the performance I had on the previous ride with the new heavy flyweights (49.25 grams) the clutch now doesn't want to fully close.

Today is just felt like it was slipping all day, but the belt wasn't burning up. I felt like I could finally get some normal function out of the clutches every now and then at higher speeds/revs, but the trails wouldn't allow much past 80 kph. I would finally switch between WOT and feathering to get a solid lock up, but once I cut the throttle back it would just fade away and ultimately the motor would be over revving while cruising at 40-50 kph and burned through fuel like nobody's business.

Am I missing something simple here? Not afraid to ask a stupid question...


IMG_0578.jpg
 
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Have you ran it on the jack stand....? Does it shift out?
Are the weight shapes the same as the old ones? Sound like something is binding in the primary.
 
I actually posted in the wrong section so a duplicate thread exists in the non power valve red head section. Yes I had it on the stand and everything works fine. Clutch off and nothing binding so I think it was just the heavy wet snow conditions loadingup the tunnel and predicting too much drag. In speaking to my buddies afterwards they both said they recalled big amount of snow coming out of my sled from time to time. Makes sense.
 


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