Rtracy2001
New member
I am new to 2-stroke engines and yet I find myself rebuilding the engine out of my parts sled so I can put a fresh engine into my 89 Exciter hopefully before next fall. (Automobile and 4-stroke ATV engines are old hat, but this 2-stroke stuff is different.)
The parts sled is/was a 93 Exciter 570 LE with electric start. The right side cylinder (furthest from the clutch) was locked up and the piston looks melted on the top closest to the exhaust port and on the underside too (just above the wrist pin.) I finally managed to rig up something to press out the wrist pin this afternoon and had a look at the rod. As shown in the picture below, there are bits of aluminum that are ground into the rod eye. My question is, Can the rod be salvaged by scraping off the aluminum and honing the small end or is it toast?
The cylinder is pretty messed up too with smeared aluminum all round the exhaust ports. As I understand it, the 93 engine used a coated cylinder rather than a steel sleeve. Is there any advantage to having it bored and re-coated, or would I be just as well off (and money ahead) to find a pair of sleeved cylinders and bore those?
When I put this into my 89 Exciter I am swapping the entire electrical system with the electric start and I can use the Exciter 1 or 2 air box.
The parts sled is/was a 93 Exciter 570 LE with electric start. The right side cylinder (furthest from the clutch) was locked up and the piston looks melted on the top closest to the exhaust port and on the underside too (just above the wrist pin.) I finally managed to rig up something to press out the wrist pin this afternoon and had a look at the rod. As shown in the picture below, there are bits of aluminum that are ground into the rod eye. My question is, Can the rod be salvaged by scraping off the aluminum and honing the small end or is it toast?
The cylinder is pretty messed up too with smeared aluminum all round the exhaust ports. As I understand it, the 93 engine used a coated cylinder rather than a steel sleeve. Is there any advantage to having it bored and re-coated, or would I be just as well off (and money ahead) to find a pair of sleeved cylinders and bore those?
When I put this into my 89 Exciter I am swapping the entire electrical system with the electric start and I can use the Exciter 1 or 2 air box.
I am new to 2-stroke engines and yet I find myself rebuilding the engine out of my parts sled so I can put a fresh engine into my 89 Exciter hopefully before next fall. (Automobile and 4-stroke ATV engines are old hat, but this 2-stroke stuff is different.)
The parts sled is/was a 93 Exciter 570 LE with electric start. The right side cylinder (furthest from the clutch) was locked up and the piston looks melted on the top closest to the exhaust port and on the underside too (just above the wrist pin.) I finally managed to rig up something to press out the wrist pin this afternoon and had a look at the rod. As shown in the picture below, there are bits of aluminum that are ground into the rod eye. My question is, Can the rod be salvaged by scraping off the aluminum and honing the small end or is it toast?
The cylinder is pretty messed up too with smeared aluminum all round the exhaust ports. As I understand it, the 93 engine used a coated cylinder rather than a steel sleeve. Is there any advantage to having it bored and re-coated, or would I be just as well off (and money ahead) to find a pair of sleeved cylinders and bore those?
When I put this into my 89 Exciter I am swapping the entire electrical system with the electric start and I can use the Exciter 1 or 2 air box.
It may be worth splitting the crank, how much of that garbage is down in the crank bearings?
Rtracy2001
New member
Still waiting on tools to get here so I can split the case. Once I get eyes on it I will know if it is a rinse and reuse or if I need to tear it down 100%.
Rtracy2001
New member
My tools arrived in the mail today, so I was able to split the case. I can't feel anything in the bearings, they all turn nice and smooth with minimal play, just like the should. However, the junk in the bottom of the case tells me I need to take it down as far as I can and wash (or replace) the bearings.
My tools arrived in the mail today, so I was able to split the case. I can't feel anything in the bearings, they all turn nice and smooth with minimal play, just like the should. However, the junk in the bottom of the case tells me I need to take it down as far as I can and wash (or replace) the bearings.
Oh ya good move!!