Detailed instructions for a first timer 87 Phazer

Phazer87

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Hey everyone. Im brand new to the sled world and working on anything mechanically so please excuse my ignorance and any stupid questions. I purchased a 1987 phazer with only 1100 miles on it. Compression test was 145 both sides and ran pretty good. The guy selling it said it has been sitting for a year so a good carb cleaning should be done. I have the seat currently removed as that also will be getting a new cover.

Im seeking someone that can give me a detailed run down on how to get some things removed from my sled for the first time so i can do basic maintenance. The more detail the better for me lol. I have posted on another forum with great help so i figured a few more minds will be helpful. Currently im trying to remove gas tank, secondary clutch, airbox, then the carbs. what would be the best steps to take here in order. Would this be correct... First remove the belt. Will it slip off or should i expect a certain way to remove it? secondary clutch is next being careful of washers. Then airbox bolt removal. then go for the carbs. Since i am also planning on removing the tank and replacing the fuel filter while its apart do you recommend removing the tank and wherever that gas line is before the carbs as well? I feel like that will minimize fuel leaking? Anyways I appreciate the help... I feel well prepared to clean the parts when removed but had no idea it would be this difficult for me to remove. Im sure it will be much easier the second go around.
 

you should replace the fuel line while you are at it. unless it was done recently, it will be brittle and break at a bad time later.
 
Maim yes that was also recommended however with my very basic mechanical skills I would need some detailed instructions on how to do that specifically. hopefully once i figure out how to get some of the above out it might be easier
 
The Yamaha service manual for the Phazer is excellent and provides step by step instructions and pictures/diagrams for most repairs, maintenance and rebuilding. It may be available from Totallyamaha if you register as a VIP member. That would be my first step if I was just starting out with little or no mechanical experience. The manual also gives you all of the technical specifications you will need to put things back together like the bolt tightening torque for the clutches etc.
 
the fuel lines are the clear plastic tubing that go from the carbs to the fuel pump to the tank. it is also used as the vent line for the tank and the fuel gauge. usually turns yellowish brown with age.
 
the fuel lines are the clear plastic tubing that go from the carbs to the fuel pump to the tank. it is also used as the vent line for the tank and the fuel gauge. usually turns yellowish brown with age.

Update: carbs are out air box out secondary and belt off. I need help on removing the panel that sits on top of tank and some instruction on how to replace these lines once they are exposed further. I need to know where to buy them and what size and how much tubing. Should I/can I add a fuel shut off valve? I’m siphoning the tank out and plan to replace the line inside there and the filter too.

Second question... in removing the choke plunger the brass fitting threads broke and the nut is off but some of the brass threads is still threaded into carb and blocking exit of plunger too. Any ideas on how to get both out? It broke pretty flush so nothing to grab on to and I’ve tried using a small screwdriver to thread it out and again nothing to really push on with the break so flush. Faaaaaack!
 
you can add a shut off in the main line from the tank to the fuel pump no problem. usually 15-20' of line is enough. i think it is 1/4" but take a peice to be sure.

that sucks. i would pull the cable and cut it off close if you can still get a cable. then i would use a left hand drill bit to try and remove the peice. you could also use an easy out. penetrating oil will be your frend.
 
Replaced mine last year. Should be two different sizes of fuel line on the Phazer. The single line from the tank that feeds the pump is larger than the two individual lines from the pump to the carbs. I originally tried to use the larger stuff all around but had leaks at the carbs even with the spring clamps. The smaller lines are really tight to slide on the pump and carb. I found warming them up so they stretch a little easier helps a lot. I made the carb lines a little longer to make removal/installation easier in future. The spring clamps on the carbs tend to slide down the lines out of reach if they get a chance so I put zip ties a couple of inches below to keep them where I can reach them until the lines are in place.

Can't recall the hose sizes off hand 5/16 and 1/4 ring a bell but I just checked the size with drill bits before I bought the hose.
 
The choke cables has a small lead ball on the end that slides into a slot on top of the plunger. If you slide the spring up the cable you may be able to work the lead ball out of the slot in the plunger and save the cable. Once the cable is out I would use an easy out as suggested to remove the broken threaded piece.
 


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