Phazer II Mod Project

Phazer_Schmidt

New member
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
Messages
6
Location
Stockbridge, WI
Hi, I’ve been reading a bunch of forms on Phazer mods as I have a 91 Phazer II that I am working on as a fun mod project. I tried to find answers to most of my questions in the forums but I was hoping to get a few opinions based on my situation. Basically my end goal is a fun light sled with a lot of low end torque. Mostly for riding ditches but I would likely hit local trails from time to time for short rides if they open. I am located an hour south of Green Bay.

I like how the X10 and rear bracket skid lifts look so I already have the X10 and the 3" tunnel lift along with a track that has 1.25" paddles. I have seen different opinions on changing the lower gear vs going to a 7T sprocket. It sounds like the 7T sprocket may be the better way to go. Or should I just try it as is and do the sprocket or gear later if I feel it is needed? Obviously it would be easiest to do the sprocket now as I have the rear end tore apart.

For the exhaust, I do have a PSI pipe, not sure if the boyesen reeds are worth it or not? I realize some of that depends on what else I do so I will continue.

For the carbs, I am thinking I want to try and find a set of 94-96 vmax flat slide carbs and gut the airbox, not sure which jets and whatnot I should start with. I am also not sure if I want to run premix or deal with getting the right oil cables. I have read good and bad things about running premix. The oil reservoir in it is cracked so I would have to get a new one of those if I do not do premix, which would be fine.

Not sure what springs are in the clutch or if I should put a different clutch in it or just see how it is before changing springs or the clutch all together.

I would appreciate any help or opinions or feedback anyone would be willing to provide. Not looking to blow a ton on this, I have 3 phazers so i wanted to try something different with one of them.
 

If I were you I'd start with the stock setup. Get your carburetion air box pipes all worked out first. Then get into clutching and gearing. Start with a know base line and then work on the performance stuff. If you change front sprockets or gearing and throw on a set of pipes and a new set of carbs ( I'd go round slide vs flat myself) then you will find yourself with some many things that could be causing a problem that is sure to pop up. Get it running good as stock then move on to carbs, at least then you know if it's not running right it's carbs because that's all that was changed. Then move on to clutching and gearing ECT. But only change/work on one thing at a time so that you will know where to go looking when something is not working right. You need a baseline to start with so as to have something to measure your mods against. Remember KISS ..... Keep It Simple Stupid do that and your project will move a long a lot faster and be much easier
 
Thanks Couple of Bucks, I read that entire threads (a few time, pretty cool stuff) but when reading other threads, opionions about some of the things I am asking about contradict each other, which is why I have questions I do.

SRX, I am on board with what you are saying and I thought about doing that but when reading other threads it seems like when you change the pipe you need to make adjustments to the carbs and often the clutch too. I could leave the reeds and sprocket as is and see how the rest shakes out. I definitely agree that changing multiple things at once leaves you with too many variables and difficult to solve problems. Is there an order I should attach this? Like carbs then pipe then clutch? I don't really want to toss money at getting it to run right on one set up to change it to another set up.

Why do you say you prefer the round slides? Sounds like a lot of people prefer those Vmax carbs quite a bit. Would you stick with the stock carbs and just adjust the jetting as needed?
 
Well if your stock setup is running good the start with your carb conversion. I have seen over the years that a lot of people swear by the flat slides. I started with the Tully's and walbros and the the round slide mics came along so my experience is with the round slides, the flat slides are the new kid on the block vintage speaking, also I think you will find a lot more people on here that can help you dial them. Next will pipe and clutching kind of go together. If the stock clutching is good then throw on the pipe. You will need to know what rpm the pipe is for. Most require a jump of 500 or more to the peak rpm, so now your back at your clutch for a little stronger spring and maybe different weights. Might also have to got back into the carb and riches her up a bit. After that's done and dialed the do your gearing or sprocket, again you might have to go back to clutching again to dial it all in but at least with each step you know where to go looking for your problem. Good luck with your build. Those p.s. s were fun little machines
 


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