Exhaust Y-pipe repair

Weldor

New member
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
27
Location
Maine
About a week ago I purchased a 2004 viper mountain. The seller pointed out the Y-pipe had some cracks in it while I was checking it out. I recently noticed the can also had a crack in it which isn’t a big deal consider I weld for a living. So my mission tonight is to grind the cracks out and weld them up, but first I have a few questions. One thing that crossed my mind is what causes a crack like this? Is it common? I haven’t noticed anything like this on my zr 900. Another thing that I was wondering before taking it all apart was, what happens if I break one of the manifold studs off on the block? Thankfully I was able to remove all the parts without much trouble. Thanks!
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Yes headers to crack frequently.... Nature of the age, vibrations, rust on this old sleds etc.....

Worse case it you snap a stud it's like another broken fastner. I'd try and weld a nut on it, or easy out.... Some have simply removed the cylinder and done the work on a work bench.
 
CLR ..... yes Calcium Lime & Rust remover is your friend when loosing stuff up. Works WAAAAAAAAAY better that that blue can of penetrating oil that smells good. Dollar General has their brand and is what I have. Cause I'm a cheap SOB.
 
also make sure that when you weld it it is clamped to a good 3/8-1/2" plate/flat bar as when we did my brothers with out the clamping, it pulled up in the middle while we welded it with the mig.
 
Hmm I’ll have to give the CLR a try sometime. Just got them both all welded up and found some new stainless nuts to replace the old ones. Got some never-seize and I was thinking, how well do the round tapered metal exhaust gaskets reseal? Should I get new ones? They seem to be in pretty good shape. Would a little rtv help seal them or would it get too hot? Also the thin metal gasket that goes from the header to the motor seems to be in good shape as well, bad idea to reuse it?E2460AB1-194F-43C0-B5E0-4137579088E8.jpg
 
Don't know if I'd use never seize on these as I've had these back off on the trails on me a few times in the past....
 
That’s what was on there but they smooth unlike the one in the picture. I got some new nuts and washers cause that’s all I could find at work. I guess I could use lock washers? Or just find some of those.
 
You replace the exhaust donuts when the metal protrudes past the donut and can rub the pipe and with vibration make a hole. If you have a cool exhaust repair shop you can bring in the donuts and match them up, I paid 10 bucks for 3 on my slp's.
 
I just reused with some rtv. Doesn’t seem to leak but I’m gonna get some new donut gaskets just for assurance.
 
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