Driveshaft bearing / Chaincase

J

jclee71

Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
46
Location
New Jersey
2005 Venom, lost driveshaft bearing chaincase side on ride Sunday, opened up chaincase and found some bearing shrapnel in there, everything else appears ok, never removed entire chaincase and driveshaft before, have a sled shop across the street which could assist me if needed, gonna do all the bearings while I have apart, any tips or specific things I should do/not do, thanks for any input
 

All 5 chaincases I've worked with all had the track side seals removed from both top and bottom bearings from Yamaha . I've always left both seals on when I replaced them.
 
Last edited:
and all the ones I have seen, have had no covers at all.

But, do yourself a favor, and replace the speedo side bearing at the same time, it is usually the first to need it.
 
Air chisel the two pop rivets off the speedo side housing. Makes getting the drive out ten times easier. Usually have to tap the brake rotor also (low where the keyway is) to get the chain case housing off.
 
im ordering bearings, looks like 5 total, 3 in chaincase and 2 on clutch side, sound right? do i need to order oil seals and orings i see on diagram for the bearings that havent failed yet?
 
ya throw it in your toolbox.
Lol
it isn't used anywhere that I have seen.
The smaller 2 are for the inside of the metal spacers.
 
So a
i got it all apart, driveshaft out, the internals out of the cahincase, i should be able to do the oil seal from the tunnel side and the bearing from the chaincase without removing the chaincase correct?? Also the collar, part 31 on diagram seems to have some abrasion to the outside from when bearing went, i already ordered parts so do i need to replace that and also the circlip part #6 got a little twisted coming out, should i replace that as well or am i being overly concerned.
 
Yes it's possible, did it last year
Changed the seal and bearing with chaincase in position. You will need the driveshaft removed.
 
Does anyone know if the collar part 31 touches anything or is it just a spacer, its no longer smooth on the outside due to the bearing exploding and roughing it up, so if it comes in contact with oil seal it may wear on it, if not ill reuse it
 
Trying to pull chaincase completely out but cant figure out parking brake, should it all come off as one unit with brake disk or do I have to mess with taking apart this parking brake assembly. Thks
 
Take the caliper off the rotor, two bolts. make sure you have all bolts removed on inner case. The rotor has to slide off the shaft as you pull/pry the case off. It is keyway'ed on the shaft and a lot of times you have to tap the other side down low to get it to slide.
 
He is talking about the parking brake, and yes, it has to come apart, take several pics before you disassemble.
 
no, the parking brake does not need to be taken apart, but slide the rotor off the jackshaft with the case, you don't want to fight the springs on the parking brake.....trust me. Take a little wood dowel and tap the base of the brake rotor on jackshaft, apply some penetrating oil and let it sit, tap again and it will all come right off with chaincase as long as you removed all the chaincase bolts, gears and chain. Its 175% easier to do it this way then taking apart the parking brake!!!!
 
riverman said:
Take the caliper off the rotor, two bolts. make sure you have all bolts removed on inner case. The rotor has to slide off the shaft as you pull/pry the case off. It is keyway'ed on the shaft and a lot of times you have to tap the other side down low to get it to slide.
Click to expand...

Exactly, although I don't pry on chaincase. excellent advice
 
Parking brake is easy once you done it a few times. But, if you’ve never done it before, try the other way.
 
Got it boys!! thanks for the help!!, now I wait for the new parts and reassembly, hopefully that goes smoothly! feel free to post any tips for reassembly , you guys are awesome!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top