Make It Your Own

406chevyss

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Nov 15, 2020
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Finally I've got my own srx I picked up for $650 (a steal if you ask me). Since it needs a little work and I do some powder coating on the side, I decided to make this one my own. I saw a pic of a srx I really like so thats where I got the idea. The first pic is how I got the sled and the second is just the beginning of what's to come.
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I've gotten the vents done while I wait for some parts. I'm still trying to decide and find a set of good shocks to put up front that won't break the bank.
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Rebuild the ones you have
I would do that but I would like to make the sled more of a crossover between trail and off trail sled. I have rode a sled exactly like this one stock and didn't really like how it was prone to get stuck in the deeper snow. My goal is to have longer travel suspension and also swapping out the skid to put a longer track underneath. I know some might say buy a sled built that way already but I sure do like the look and sound of an srx.

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Agreed, then, grab a Viper rear suspension, and Viper front shocks.
By far the easiest way to get a long travel SRX.
 
How long are you looking to go? I picked up a sc3 for $100 and installed cpl weeks ago but thinking I want to go 137”
 
How long are you looking to go? I picked up a sc3 for $100 and installed cpl weeks ago but thinking I want to go 137”
I'm looking for a 136" skid. From what I've read a ski doo 2004 or newer had longer travel suspension and I'm not sure for a polaris.

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I started getting the front end sorted out. I put longer shocks on, they are 17.5 center to center so it should give me more travel and more ride height. After some thinking and doing some math I came up with a good length for the radius rods. Still have to lengthen the tie rods and the sway bar since the ski stance is about 3 inches wider than stock. The jack is underneath to hold it up until the pump shows up to put some air in the shocks.
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How did you lengthen the radius rods?
Good question. It took me a minute to figure out how I was going to make everything stay roughly the same angles. Before I went to bed the other night it finally clicked. I had to use some of that tough from high school.

I knew I could make a triangle using the shock as one side, then using the bottom bolt of the shock and measured a level line towards the belly pan, and using the top shock bolt measuring down to my level line from the bottom shock bolt and where those 2 lines intersected at 90° i used those measurements.

Now knowing all the measurements of the triangle and one angle I could use some trigonometry to find the other angles( or just Google a triangle calculator and plug in your numbers). Once you have all 3 angles of the triangle figured out then you can change the length of 1 side and find the length of the other 2 sides.

So all I had to do was plug in the length of the longer shock and it would give you the lengths of the other 2 sides. With that info I knew how much longer I needed to make the radius rods to make the suspension geometry stay the same.

I know its kind of a long process to get results but since I was going with longer shocks than a viper I couldn't go off of those measurements.

I'm probably making it harder than it needs to be but trying to make all these things work out on a project I think makes it more fun and rewarding when it works.

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Nice! What are the shocks off of? I thought the Viper had 17.5" center to center, shouldn't these match that then?

Cool build, I like the custom stuff. Will be following!
 
Nice! What are the shocks off of? I thought the Viper had 17.5" center to center, shouldn't these match that then?

Cool build, I like the custom stuff. Will be following!
I think the shocks are off a nytro from what I was told. Now I'm just waiting of the skid to get here so I can get that all mounted before we get some snow.
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If those floats don’t have heim joints in them, you are going to run into problems as they need to move 2 dimensionally. They will bind and eventually break. The pro action front arms don’t move exactly vertical. You need heim joints on the shock ends.
 
If those floats don’t have heim joints in them, you are going to run into problems as they need to move 2 dimensionally. They will bind and eventually break. The pro action front arms don’t move exactly vertical. You need heim joints on the shock ends.
I'm not sure I know what you mean. I know what you mean by having a heim joint, but the stock shocks dont have them. The float have the same bushings as the stock shock, so I would think it would work the same.
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The skid finally arrived the other day so I got busy tearing it down and cleaning it up. I decide ro go with an sc3 from a 04 rev. I would have powder coat the rails yamaha blue but unfortunately my oven is 6 inches to small. Should have the skid mounted tomorrow, then onto making a tunnel extension. The yellow wheels are going to have to go at some point, but for now they will have to do the trick.
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The stock has a rubber mounted bushing so that it can flex. If the floats have a solid bushing or needle bearings they will bind. If I were you I would def have heim joints put in those shocks. If the floats have the same type of rubber mounted bushing it should be fine
 
The stock has a rubber mounted bushing so that it can flex. If the floats have a solid bushing or needle bearings they will bind. If I were you I would def have heim joints put in those shocks. If the floats have the same type of rubber mounted bushing it should be fine
I shouldn't have an issue then. The floats came off nitro and have a similar style bushing. Thanks for the heads up though. [emoji106]

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The skid finally arrived the other day so I got busy tearing it down and cleaning it up. I decide ro go with an sc3 from a 04 rev. I would have powder coat the rails yamaha blue but unfortunately my oven is 6 inches to small. Should have the skid mounted tomorrow, then onto making a tunnel extension. The yellow wheels are going to have to go at some point, but for now they will have to do the trick.
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Your going to need a tunnel extension. Otherwise your track is going to hit the rear aluminum panel and rad every time your rear suspension hits a bump.
 
Your going to need a tunnel extension. Otherwise your track is going to hit the rear aluminum panel and rad every time your rear suspension hits a bump.
Your are correct sir. I've got one made up and put on. I don't really care for the way the guards I made turned out but for now the will have to work. If the rear cooler wasn't so big I think it would make it easier to do something different with it, but I don't think removing the cooler is a great idea unless I go with one from a ski doo that mount inside the tunnel under the seat. Maybe down the road there will be more changes. [emoji1745]
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