Hi guys I have a SX Viper I just traded it last night, my first problem is the dash doesn't work he said he goes on and off sometimes. My next thing is I rode it for maybe 5 minuets and it overheated then wouldn't idle then I went to start it back up and let out a loud backfire. Where would a good spot be to start to fix it?
mod-it
Member
Anytime you buy a used sled that has carburetors it is a good idea to pull them off, clean thoroughly (there is a tutorial on here by MrViper700), and verify what jetting they have. The other owner may have used it at a higher or lower altitude than you will.
It is a bit concerning that it ran fine for 5 minutes, but then gave a temp warning and after that wouldn't run well.
Did it run fine before it was overheated? Did it return to running fine after you started it back up and it let out the backfire?
Pull plugs and see what they look like, hopefully you weren't riding it at such a low altitude that it ran lean and damaged one or more cylinders/rings/pistons. Look at plugs and hope you don't see metal shavings or a silver color.
These sleds also require snow to be flipped up onto the heat exchangers for cooling, it isn't a good idea to ride them in very marginal snow or on frozen up hard pack snow.
The gauge pod going on/off is likely one of two things. Either the harness under the motor has rubbed through and has some bare wires (common and tons of info on here about it), or the stator is starting to fail. When my 03 Mnt. Viper stator starting getting weak it would blank out the gauge pod whenever I hit the brake or changed between high/low beam. As it got weaker the hand/thumb warmers quit working and the sled started to bog out at rpm's over about 6000.
The back firing could be from dirty carbs, a rubbed wire under the motor, or every issue could be from a weak stator.
1st: pull and read plugs. Mainly do not want to see silver color (metal flakes) or really lean looking.
2nd: clean carbs and check that jetting is correct for your average altitude and temps where you ride.
3rd: Inspect main wiring harness for rubs and bare wires showing.
4th: If main harness looks all good, ohm test the stator.
It is a bit concerning that it ran fine for 5 minutes, but then gave a temp warning and after that wouldn't run well.
Did it run fine before it was overheated? Did it return to running fine after you started it back up and it let out the backfire?
Pull plugs and see what they look like, hopefully you weren't riding it at such a low altitude that it ran lean and damaged one or more cylinders/rings/pistons. Look at plugs and hope you don't see metal shavings or a silver color.
These sleds also require snow to be flipped up onto the heat exchangers for cooling, it isn't a good idea to ride them in very marginal snow or on frozen up hard pack snow.
The gauge pod going on/off is likely one of two things. Either the harness under the motor has rubbed through and has some bare wires (common and tons of info on here about it), or the stator is starting to fail. When my 03 Mnt. Viper stator starting getting weak it would blank out the gauge pod whenever I hit the brake or changed between high/low beam. As it got weaker the hand/thumb warmers quit working and the sled started to bog out at rpm's over about 6000.
The back firing could be from dirty carbs, a rubbed wire under the motor, or every issue could be from a weak stator.
1st: pull and read plugs. Mainly do not want to see silver color (metal flakes) or really lean looking.
2nd: clean carbs and check that jetting is correct for your average altitude and temps where you ride.
3rd: Inspect main wiring harness for rubs and bare wires showing.
4th: If main harness looks all good, ohm test the stator.
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We got a lot of powder last night went out and rode it and it did not overheat still back fired every now and again but once its warmed up it will not idle at all. Someone told me maybe the battery is weak and the display wont come on because of that.
Jack99
Member
Me thinks multiple different problems / different areas.
For backfire:
- Clean carbs - as mentioned above
- check carb jet sizes and factory size specs.
- Replace with fresh gas.
- Replace in-tank gas filter
For cooling:
- replace its cooling fluid (ensure proper levels)
- ensure fluid is moving down the lines.
- replace its chain case oil.
- ensure its chain is a proper tightness
For electrical:
- Check all wiring going to its dash area.
- Check all connectors / joints. Add dialectical grease to joints.
- Check all wiring pathing (for burnt spots) under its hood.
- Check is "under" its handle bar pad wiring / connectors as well.
- Ensure battery is charged up 100%
- Replace with new spark plugs.
Note: Some above things could be unrelated (like chain area) but are a good thing to-do with unconfirmed maintenance history.
For backfire:
- Clean carbs - as mentioned above
- check carb jet sizes and factory size specs.
- Replace with fresh gas.
- Replace in-tank gas filter
For cooling:
- replace its cooling fluid (ensure proper levels)
- ensure fluid is moving down the lines.
- replace its chain case oil.
- ensure its chain is a proper tightness
For electrical:
- Check all wiring going to its dash area.
- Check all connectors / joints. Add dialectical grease to joints.
- Check all wiring pathing (for burnt spots) under its hood.
- Check is "under" its handle bar pad wiring / connectors as well.
- Ensure battery is charged up 100%
- Replace with new spark plugs.
Note: Some above things could be unrelated (like chain area) but are a good thing to-do with unconfirmed maintenance history.
mod-it
Member
You say it won't idle once warmed up. Does this mean it won't idle once the choke is turned off?
The backfiring and won't idle sounds a lot like dirty carbs, jets and possibly some passages are blocked with crud. But with the gauge pod issue thrown in it really sounds like it may have wires rubbed bare in the main harness that are grounding out.
So it has electric start? They do not have a battery unless they have electric start.