Klotz = Bad Results

Zachalyse

Zachalyse

Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
Messages
826
Age
57
Location
Maine
At the beginning of last winter, when I purchased my SRX with 1800 miles on it, I switched to Klotz. Prior owner ran only Yamalube. Cleaned powervalves (not bad at all). After first season running Klotz (1000 miles) powervalves were a mess (1 stuck w/pulled cable). Cleaned and replaced broken valve at beginning of this season. Now, another 1000 miles, powervalves a mess and another stuck. Also found some oil residue in my carbs. WTF?

After some research I've found some mixed opinions about Klotz. The percentages tend to be in favor of it, but many have had the same issues I've had. Not sure what the deal is here, but I'm switching back to Yamalube. Gone are my days playing the oil game.

On a brighter note: I thought my sled was really running good as of late. I can't wait to run it now! :2strokes:
 

That doesn't sound good. Not looking forward to cleaning my vipers valves now since I am running Klotz as well.
 
I cleaned my PV's for the first time on my Viper at the beginning of the year. Sled had 6200 miles on it and they were deffinitely ready for a cleanning, but were still moving freely and had no pull throughs.. Yamalube from day one!
Say what you want about Yamalube, but this has been my experience.
 
Ya, I had no trouble with Yamalube before Klotz. If the valves are nasty then I will be going back to yamalube after the Klotz is gone.
 
Always heard good things about KLOTZ i've used it my self will good results would use it more if it wasn't so damn pricy and hard to find,the thing that
always shied me from it kind of is it's specs, it's both a TC-W3 rating and jasso cert for l/c,air cooled 2 strokes can't have both IMO and be a good engine specific oil.

did anything change between using the two oil's? hard to think that a good quality synthetic oil would have that effect on PV's.

oil residue in carbs is spit back,normal all tripples have that.
 
well on brothers viper (kirkswim), he is running motul this season (when it ran). he did run a season on ipone. the ipone was a little worse on the pv as he cleans his every season. what he found is that if you run seafoam in the gas every couple of tanks, you do not have to clean them when you pull them out to inspect them or the build-up is very minimal. he also runs 87 octane in the sled whitch is stock viper.
 
honestly, I had the same results with klotz, and not too much different now that I am running interceptor. yamalube would get me through a 2500 miles season without ever pulling the valves. now with the expensive oil I cant really make it past 500 miles before they begin to get stuck open when I come to a stop. and when they don't close you REALLY lose the low end grunt!!!
 
Last edited:
Not looking for options. Been there done that. No spectacular results with amsoil either. As I said. I'm done with the oil game. Yamalube it is.
 
Just a quick note on the oil thing, ran Yamalube several years and switched to Interceptor on both 02 (sold) and 04 Vipers. No problems with either oils, but I find my 04 S seems to use less oil and burns a little cleaner under the same conditions. A little extra $, but seems like it's worth it for some better protection, from all I have read. Anyway... maybe on last good ride tomorrow! It's been a good year here in Central Maine.
 
klotz

I had bad luck with the Klotz also. Did not burn as clean as I thought it would. Gummed up the power valves in my 01 SRX real bad. I use Schaffer oil now and have not had any problems at all. Power valves stay nice and clean
 
yeah, IMO the klotz sucks. it burns too dirty. i think its castor oil based. it smells good tho. i've ripped apart a ktm50 dirt bike for a rebuild, and that bike only ran on klotz since day 1 and i've never seen such carbon buildup in the exhaust port and top of piston and such a weird milky looking residue inside the crankcase and on the crank ever. the exhaust port was plugged up to like 50% of the diameter. i will never run that stuff in my personal recreation toys. the stuff is really expensive too. i personally like the amsoil dominator, but still currently am burning up my yamalube, w/satisfactory results.
 
I will 100% back this up.. of all the sleds I've serviced every one had the same issues with gummed up or stuck valves with klotz and the ones running yamalube had no issues. But I have to say the klotz smells so much better.
 
im just wondering if its not the oil, but how its driven, i dont have powervalves on any thing i own, so im going off what ive red on hear and friends that have them, all the friends that have them, run hard and put away wet always looking for a race, and one doesnt fix anything unless its broke he has over 10000 miles on his srx, and has i believe never cleaned his valves, every now and then if you give him enough crap he pulls one and its clean puts back and runs, now from what ive red they start to open around 5000 i dont know if its gradual or right to wide open, so im thinking if you drive there and below most of the time the oil fuel resido just builds up in the clearance especialy if your running fat on the bottom if you dont open it up lets say 50% of the time the excesse cant be blown out and from the heat bakes in there and once that happens your done no amount of high speed will remove it, now i have worked on allot of 2 strokes that have build up to closed exhaust almost all were running fat on low end and driven there alot, the others had bad kill switches and owner was killing with the choke, just a thought i have never even seen klots for sale around me, every one i know runs artic blue sold at fleet & farm stores its synthetic
 
Last edited:
I can hear my valves close, but they open at a different rpm. so when I take off if I blip the throttle the valves open up, but wont close again until I get to about 3500 rpm, so unless I am coming to a stop they mostly stay open. the biggest thing for me is that I have always driven it the same way and have issues with one oil and not the other. same driver and conditions, just the oil is different, and the results :)
 
no1chevyboy said:
im just wondering if its not the oil, but how its driven, i dont have powervalves on any thing i own, so im going off what ive red on hear and friends that have them, all the friends that have them, run hard and put away wet always looking for a race, and one doesnt fix anything unless its broke he has over 10000 miles on his srx, and has i believe never cleaned his valves, every now and then if you give him enough crap he pulls one and its clean puts back and runs, now from what ive red they start to open around 5000 i dont know if its gradual or right to wide open, so im thinking if you drive there and below most of the time the oil fuel resido just builds up in the clearance especialy if your running fat on the bottom if you dont open it up lets say 50% of the time the excesse cant be blown out and from the heat bakes in there and once that happens your done no amount of high speed will remove it, now i have worked on allot of 2 strokes that have build up to closed exhaust almost all were running fat on low end and driven there alot, the others had bad kill switches and owner was killing with the choke, just a thought
Click to expand...

Nothing to do with how it's run here. I run "Balls Out" most of the time. This oils flat out sucks. So many here are in agreement. I've been riding powervalved sleds since they came out and have never had the issues "KLOGS" has given me.
 
Last edited:
Zachalyse said:
Nothing to do with how it's run here. I run "Balls Out" most of the time. This oils flat out sucks. So many here are in agreement. I've been riding powervalved sleds since they came out and have never had the issues "KLOGS" has given me.
Click to expand...

"KLOGS".....LOL. now that's a good one. i'll have to call it that from now on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top