free or cheap mods

port your reed stuffers, and boots to carbs. pull your cylinders and knife edge the transfers and clean up any ruff flashing. Clean out the exhaust side of flashing. Check your y pipe, some have had welds hanging down into the port. Srx torque arm is a must for consistent clutching and to keep the mounts from breaking. Install polaris style tunnel protectors full lenght. These will keep the tank from pushing down on your tunnel. Tuner skis will make the sled steer great. tighten up your skid, the rear suspension is full of slop that causes the shocks to act as thought they have a dead spot in them. This costs little and makes the sled handle better, and the skid will last longer. Head gasket is great mod but does require super and you may want to jet up one size if your a cold rider. Gearing is good for trail, if anything, gear it up one on top.
 
A couple of bucks said:
Could you please explain what this entails.
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also if you could explain the cylinders and knives edge. I know cleaning the flashing out will help the fuel flow. What would be the best tool to clean the flashing out? And can this be done on the sled without hurting the sled?
 
the kind of porting I am talking about, causes nothing but better flow, no changes in timing. porting reed cages is simply making as smooth of a transition from carb, to boot, to reed stuffer. If you remove all of these and do some simple inspection, you will find many edges protrude, or drop off. With some grinding, you can take care of many of these problems. On most boots, it is nessisary to round in the lower front edge of the carb. the air is droping in over this and it is a sharp edge. On the other end, the carb boots usually dont match up to the stuffers. Sometimes the stuffers need some trimming, sometimes the boots overhang the stuffers and need to be ground. Be careful grinding the boots not to get them too thin. the stuffers also can stick in too far where they mate up inside the reed cage. Some of these edges need to be taken off with a knife. don't forget the other end of the carb as well. sometimes the airbox side has similar issues with rubber edges not lining up.

all of this may seem like much to do about nothing but isn't that what sledding is?
 
BETHEVIPER said:
the kind of porting I am talking about, causes nothing but better flow, no changes in timing. porting reed cages is simply making as smooth of a transition from carb, to boot, to reed stuffer. If you remove all of these and do some simple inspection, you will find many edges protrude, or drop off. With some grinding, you can take care of many of these problems. On most boots, it is nessisary to round in the lower front edge of the carb. the air is droping in over this and it is a sharp edge. On the other end, the carb boots usually dont match up to the stuffers. Sometimes the stuffers need some trimming, sometimes the boots overhang the stuffers and need to be ground. Be careful grinding the boots not to get them too thin. the stuffers also can stick in too far where they mate up inside the reed cage. Some of these edges need to be taken off with a knife. don't forget the other end of the carb as well. sometimes the airbox side has similar issues with rubber edges not lining up.

all of this may seem like much to do about nothing but isn't that what sledding is?
Click to expand...


Great advice!!
 
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