Schocker65
New member
...but a little worried about what I have here.
'99 Vmax 500 deluxe with a 2 up seat. I had green light from the wife to get a second sled, as long as it was a 2 up with electric start. This sled fit the bill, and I've always wanted a Yammie from this vintage. Sled was advertised as very good condition and to have 1600 (really?) miles. Supposed second owner only had it for one season.
Went to see it, it started right up with working electric start, but idled rough. Reverse also works. Track looks like it was recently replaced (clips all shiny). Seat cover in excellent shape. Hood clean and undamaged, tunnel and skis straight. I got excited and basically just peed my pants and bought it. Didn't check anything else. Like I said, always wanted one of these Yammies and the price was lower than any other similar sleds available locally.
Got it home and rode it 200 feet through the grass to park it. Some belt squealing and feels like track ratcheting. Running kind of rough. Figure I'll have some work to do, at least a thorough cleaning of the carbs.
Here's more that I learned/confirmed since I got it home:
1. The previous track was studded. Snowflap has some stud damage and front heat exchanger took a couple of shots from studs, but fortunately is not leaking and flows (all exchangers warm after running - no leaks).
2. Skid looks good - shock still damping pretty well.
3. Dead and petrified mouse in rear compartment. Gack. Shopvac took care of that.
4. Motor idles low and shakes like a paint mixer. Clears throat when spinning the track above 6K RPM. Hopefully carb cleaning will help with this. Plugs read rich, but doesn't mean much without being able to really ride it.
5. 120 PSI both sides and some significant sheave wear on primary clutch near shaft. 1,600 miles my ***.
6. TORS unplugged
7. Belt installed backwards. Who knows if that was from the start. Guy didn't seem very detail oriented.
8. Has V-force reeds
Who knows how many miles this really has? Not me. I'll see how it runs after cleaning the carbs. Not going to worry about the top end unless it seems down on power, and I'll keep my fingers crossed that the bottom end is ok.
To do list:
1. Clean carbs and check reeds/cages.
2. Crack chaincase and inspect chain/gears, replace if needed. Possibly go down a tooth on the top gear. Fresh lube.
3. Remove/disassemble primary and clean/inspect for parts needing replacement. A bit worried about those sheaves. I don't care to grenade a clutch. Been there.
4. Clean/lube secondary and check spring settings.
5. Check brake pads/disc
6. Drop skid and inspect for damage, grease all zerks, check/replace idlers/bearings as needed, replace hyfax.
7. Check drive axle bearings for slop/noise. Say a prayer for me. I hate the thought of pulling the axle.
8. Drain gas tank and refill with fresh ethanol free gas with stabilizer.
9. Replace water pump belt (seems like a good idea)
10. Grease all driveline zerks.
11. Order a fresh OEM belt
I'm tired already thinking about this. Looking forward to digging on, though. If I see anything weird, I'll post it.
Would appreciate any pointers from the collective braintrust that is this board!
'99 Vmax 500 deluxe with a 2 up seat. I had green light from the wife to get a second sled, as long as it was a 2 up with electric start. This sled fit the bill, and I've always wanted a Yammie from this vintage. Sled was advertised as very good condition and to have 1600 (really?) miles. Supposed second owner only had it for one season.
Went to see it, it started right up with working electric start, but idled rough. Reverse also works. Track looks like it was recently replaced (clips all shiny). Seat cover in excellent shape. Hood clean and undamaged, tunnel and skis straight. I got excited and basically just peed my pants and bought it. Didn't check anything else. Like I said, always wanted one of these Yammies and the price was lower than any other similar sleds available locally.
Got it home and rode it 200 feet through the grass to park it. Some belt squealing and feels like track ratcheting. Running kind of rough. Figure I'll have some work to do, at least a thorough cleaning of the carbs.
Here's more that I learned/confirmed since I got it home:
1. The previous track was studded. Snowflap has some stud damage and front heat exchanger took a couple of shots from studs, but fortunately is not leaking and flows (all exchangers warm after running - no leaks).
2. Skid looks good - shock still damping pretty well.
3. Dead and petrified mouse in rear compartment. Gack. Shopvac took care of that.
4. Motor idles low and shakes like a paint mixer. Clears throat when spinning the track above 6K RPM. Hopefully carb cleaning will help with this. Plugs read rich, but doesn't mean much without being able to really ride it.
5. 120 PSI both sides and some significant sheave wear on primary clutch near shaft. 1,600 miles my ***.
6. TORS unplugged
7. Belt installed backwards. Who knows if that was from the start. Guy didn't seem very detail oriented.
8. Has V-force reeds
Who knows how many miles this really has? Not me. I'll see how it runs after cleaning the carbs. Not going to worry about the top end unless it seems down on power, and I'll keep my fingers crossed that the bottom end is ok.
To do list:
1. Clean carbs and check reeds/cages.
2. Crack chaincase and inspect chain/gears, replace if needed. Possibly go down a tooth on the top gear. Fresh lube.
3. Remove/disassemble primary and clean/inspect for parts needing replacement. A bit worried about those sheaves. I don't care to grenade a clutch. Been there.
4. Clean/lube secondary and check spring settings.
5. Check brake pads/disc
6. Drop skid and inspect for damage, grease all zerks, check/replace idlers/bearings as needed, replace hyfax.
7. Check drive axle bearings for slop/noise. Say a prayer for me. I hate the thought of pulling the axle.
8. Drain gas tank and refill with fresh ethanol free gas with stabilizer.
9. Replace water pump belt (seems like a good idea)
10. Grease all driveline zerks.
11. Order a fresh OEM belt
I'm tired already thinking about this. Looking forward to digging on, though. If I see anything weird, I'll post it.
Would appreciate any pointers from the collective braintrust that is this board!
Throttle Junkie35
New member
Good luck with your project. Ive seen quite a few sleds that looked beat way beyond what the odometer said. There are lots of REALY honest folks out there. lol. Yami clutches are good clutches and would no way in hell show any considerable wear at 1600 mi. I think you are right on with your maint. check list.
Cooper0809
New member
Yup clean them carbs and some fresh fuel! When I bought my srx, the odometer said 4900miles. I thought that was kind of low given the year (2000) and later found a broken speedo key...
albernhagen
Member
I had the same thing, Cooper! Sad that people pull that kind of stuff. Good luck with the maintenance and keep us updated.
Cooper0809
New member
It's pretty sad when they notice the speedo stops working and won't take 5mins of their time to replace a $5 part...and then sell it to somebody after they've racked up who knows how many more miles! They shouldn't own a sled IMO!
Schocker65
New member
Preparing...step by step
Cooper0809
New member
Read them religiously!
Schocker65
New member
In the garage now...
Schocker65
New member
So I can tell just by hand that at least the outer cover bushing on the primary is shot. Looking around, I am having trouble finding the bushings sold separately. Anybody have any ideas?
Schocker65
New member
Never mind - I think I found them.
devinzz1
Active member
paint off the running boards tell me more than 1600. Still Looks clean tho.
Schocker65
New member
Agreed...
Throttle Junkie35
New member
looks like a nice sled.
Schocker65
New member
Thanks. I'm dying to dig in and work on it. Currently out of town and planning to starts the carbs when I get home. What I see when I pop out the reeds will dictate my next moves.
Schocker65
New member
Just started digging in today. Lots of belt dust in the carbs. Cleaned every jet and passage I could get to. No obvious existing blockages. Notable that the pilot screws were at 3 turns; spec is 1-3/4. I'll be putting those back to spec.
Got one of the v-force reeds out before I had to quit. Looks to be in great shape. Side of the mag side piston looks clean also.
By the way, there was a gasket on both sides of the reed cage flange, while on the parts diagram they only show one on the cylinder side, with nothing on the manifold side. Wondering what you all think I should do for re-assembly.
Got one of the v-force reeds out before I had to quit. Looks to be in great shape. Side of the mag side piston looks clean also.
By the way, there was a gasket on both sides of the reed cage flange, while on the parts diagram they only show one on the cylinder side, with nothing on the manifold side. Wondering what you all think I should do for re-assembly.
Attachments
Last edited:
Schocker65
New member
Found a couple of exhaust retainer springs that had been dropped into the pan and replaced them. Battery retaining strap was also laying in the pan by the chaincase. I could never leave stuff like that. What is wrong with people?
Also noticed when taking carbs off initially that one of the breather hoses seemed pretty pinched between the carb and the manifold boot. Guessing that was not helping things. Waiting now for pilot screw o-rings and washers, as I killed one set after removing them to clean out the passage.
In one of the pics here you can see where the breather tube was pinched. Also wanted to show the reeds and some other photos. I love this stuff.
Also noticed when taking carbs off initially that one of the breather hoses seemed pretty pinched between the carb and the manifold boot. Guessing that was not helping things. Waiting now for pilot screw o-rings and washers, as I killed one set after removing them to clean out the passage.
In one of the pics here you can see where the breather tube was pinched. Also wanted to show the reeds and some other photos. I love this stuff.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
You should really really REEEEALLY consider putting fresh seats in as well. 16/17 year old rubber seats are not the best at keeping the fuel money in your wallet. Your gonna kick yourself if ya don't do it now.
Last edited:
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
That might be exactly why the second owner had it for just 1 year. She guzzled.
Schocker65
New member
What seats are you talking about? The float needle seats?
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Needle seats.