Snowman74
Member
I've searched to see if anyone has done this, seen guys talk about it but nobody has really said anything about doing it. So has anyone done this? Any reliability issues arise? I see often the point that it lubes crank bearings brought up, but on other sleds that i know of have had no reliability issues with oil pump delete that also lube bearings. I'm used to mixing on the trail from my dirt bike, and yes it's a pain to tote around the extra oil. My viper is the only thing I own that isn't premix so I always have mixed gas around.
roudyroy1
Active member
There's a few problems with this. 1. The water pump gear needs and oil line To feed the cavity oil. 2. The crank bearings have oil lines right to the bearings it's self. With out such oil their life would be greatly reduced. Some people do this for ice and grass drags since the motor is only run for short periods. Other than that, why exactly do you want to delete it? The system works great and is very reliable. Plus it is fail safe to some extent.
super1c
Super Moderator
x2. No better oil injection system around. Why delete?There's a few problems with this. 1. The water pump gear needs and oil line To feed the cavity oil. 2. The crank bearings have oil lines right to the bearings it's self. With out such oil their life would be greatly reduced. Some people do this for ice and grass drags since the motor is only run for short periods. Other than that, why exactly do you want to delete it? The system works great and is very reliable. Plus it is fail safe to some extent.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
X3. It's the best in the business.
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
I got to ask, what is the point. I understand on a drag sled, your trying to remove drag to the point of even cutting off impeller blades, but for trail, I can think of no advantage. Pumps are set up to fail in the full rich condition.
Snowman74
Member
More just curious. If it fails and goes full rich odds are you're still going to have to be towed back. Have to deal with priming and setting it to get proper ratio.
shaggyzr2
Active member
More just curious. If it fails and goes full rich odds are you're still going to have to be towed back. Have to deal with priming and setting it to get proper ratio.
Priming and setting are really easy to do.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Nope. You'll know the next time you refill your oil after pump failure. Instead of adding 1 quart, you'd add close to 3 qt.If it fails and goes full rich odds are you're still going to have to be towed back.
Snowman74
Member
Still reaching the oil pump does suck. But thanks for everybody's input. Still would like to know if anybody has done it and how it went for them.
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
you don't need to reach the oil pump to adjust it. There is a slide out section of your cable. Once idle is set, throttle lever clearence is set, then you set the oiler by pulling this cable apart and measuring it. needs to be 20-23mm, the wider the gap, the leaner it will be on oil. A viper has some week points, the oil system is not one of them. Now the PV cables and valves, there is something to focus on. clean, adjust, ride, repeat.
yammitrip1
Member
okay, say if someone wants to delete there oil tank to allow room for a cooler installed in the tunnel, or if someone was into watercross and didnt want to worry about getting water in there oil? I am also interested in a way of deleting the oil pump.