Starter Gear Epoxy Removal

Trek4ward

New member
Joined
Apr 8, 2015
Messages
48
Location
Maryland
So I bought a used 1998 Vmax 700 XT last year and decided to add electric start this year. Finally found the starter gear for the clutch and was about to install it and noticed my mounting bolts weren't going all the way down. Pulled the gear off and see that there is cured epoxy of some sort in all the holes that obviously secured a prior installation of the starter gear bolts. I've tried acetone, paint remover a heat gun and nothing seems to even soften this stuff one bit. My only hope is to try to re-tap the holes, but I'm not even sure I'll get the tap past that epoxy and may have to drill them out and go a size up. Anyone had a similar experience and know a way to soften/remove this stuff???
 

Not sure what it would be other then lock tight. Heat gun won't do it you will be a mep torch or whatever the name is. The yellow bottle one to get it hot enough to melt it. If done right in the past it would be green lock tight, sleeve retainer. Never heard of anything else used. Are your bolts OEM? Could be wrong and maybe a bit long?
 
Not sure what it would be other then lock tight. Heat gun won't do it you will be a mep torch or whatever the name is. The yellow bottle one to get it hot enough to melt it. If done right in the past it would be green lock tight, sleeve retainer. Never heard of anything else used. Are your bolts OEM? Could be wrong and maybe a bit long?

The crap on there is definitely green, but solid as a rock and NOTHING was penetrating it. I finally resorted to slowly and methodically chipping away at it. I have not damaged the original threads, but they're still a little gunked up (in a solid way). I think a tap will cut through it, but now my next questions is what size are those bolts? I don't seem to have a single bolt in my garage that size and nothing at Ace hardware matched up. The bolts I received with the gear are OEM, but "New" OEM as the part number has changed. They appear to be cheap zink plated bolts with torx that seem way too shallow and may strip when I try to torque them to spec. I'd prefer to replace them with hex stainless when I order the tap.
 
The torx head ones are correct. A 25 torx if I remember right and they are not very long. That green lock tight is hard stuff and needs good head to melt it. I don't have any of those bolts with me here so I can't give you a size but I do know you can't find them at a local hardware in my experience. Dealer only. So order from online or local dealer. Get rid of those hex bolts. They tend not to pull flush and the bigger head can rub on the bulkhead brace. First hand experience on that. I've installed a few of these on my Vipers from various Sleds as donors.
 
The torx head ones are correct. A 25 torx if I remember right and they are not very long. That green lock tight is hard stuff and needs good head to melt it. I don't have any of those bolts with me here so I can't give you a size but I do know you can't find them at a local hardware in my experience. Dealer only. So order from online or local dealer. Get rid of those hex bolts. They tend not to pull flush and the bigger head can rub on the bulkhead brace. First hand experience on that. I've installed a few of these on my Vipers from various Sleds as donors.

Thanks for your help on this. I used a strong magnifying glass, a very precise flathead and just chipped a bit here, sprayed with canned air, a little bit there, more air and it all chipped off. Perhaps the cold (canned air) helped it freeze enough to get brittle and flake off. I have it installed now. I think the green locktite must stand for "hulk". That's stuff's serious!
 


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