Secondary on my 2000 srx700 is stuck. Must be rusted on. Any EASY ideas on how to remove it? Iv tried heat and sprayed penatrating oil in the center bolt hole. No luck .cant find a place to give it a wack either........help
yamahamark
Member
Wedge a 2x4 down behind it will will move some and then you have something to hit to help get it off...
theres simply no room for a 2x4 and a 1x4 just breaks apart. Its on there good. Rusted on. Iv tried heat, penetrating oil all while prying on the back side and tapping the center of the outside face. Its not budging. Anyone else got any ideas?
is there a puller for this?": And if so how do I find one in Canada without having to buy from the states
Hammer Down
Member
You could remove the airbox and have access to tapping it or prying. You might damage the bearings or chaincase if you hit too hard though. Did you spray pb blaster on the backside off the secondary/shaft?
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
undo the 3 bolts and pull helix and the outside sheave.Now you will have a better view and area to work on to remove the rear sheave.Can you try and rig some kind of puller to it.Leave the sled out in the cold a a bit and then take and place heat to the sheave to try and expand it quickly to slide it off.Use a dead blow mallet to wack on it a bit as well..got to come out eventually
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super1c
Super Moderator
X2. Blues right on!
drew24
New member
Also if the shaft starts to get warm as you are heating the sheave you can spray penetrating oil in the bolt hole on the end of the shaft to cool it down quickly right before you hit it with the mallet. Also be careful not to get it too hot.
Did you get the secondary off yet?
Start with what "blue" suggested by taking the 3 nuts that hold the helix off. Remove the helix, spring and outer sheave. Then you can wedge something behind the inner sheave (between frame and sheave) and use a long punch that won't damage the threads inside the jackshaft (where the secondary bolt goes) you can give it a sharp rap. Be sure the punch bottoms out in the jackshaft without touching the threads. I can't remember if I had to pull the belly pan loose on top or not in order to hit the punch. Once you are ready to hit the punch, you can apply heat as suggested above. The best penetrating oil for this seems to be Aero-Kroil (can get it online). I have tried everything I can find and this simply seems to be the best. I can't remember if I loosened the set screws on the jackshaft bearing or not. If it simply won't budge using reasonable taps, I would make sure you are not stressing any of the bearings (both ends) and give it some serious whacks.
Start with what "blue" suggested by taking the 3 nuts that hold the helix off. Remove the helix, spring and outer sheave. Then you can wedge something behind the inner sheave (between frame and sheave) and use a long punch that won't damage the threads inside the jackshaft (where the secondary bolt goes) you can give it a sharp rap. Be sure the punch bottoms out in the jackshaft without touching the threads. I can't remember if I had to pull the belly pan loose on top or not in order to hit the punch. Once you are ready to hit the punch, you can apply heat as suggested above. The best penetrating oil for this seems to be Aero-Kroil (can get it online). I have tried everything I can find and this simply seems to be the best. I can't remember if I loosened the set screws on the jackshaft bearing or not. If it simply won't budge using reasonable taps, I would make sure you are not stressing any of the bearings (both ends) and give it some serious whacks.
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Rustman
New member
Would a flywheel puller fit onto the studs that the helix mounts to and just pull it off that way?