M10 setup in srx

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nick5oh

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
Messages
359
Location
Hunstville, Ontario
Hey guys, just went through my whole m10 skid, had to do wheel bearings, 2 wheels, and replace the torque arms as well as hyfax's. After a lot of cursin and fightin me and my pops got it in. What a pain in the ***! We may have did it wrong cause it was a huge fight. Don't think it should be that hard.
Anyways now that I have it on the ground, it doesn't seem right, but I'm not sure what "right is" for this setup since I just picked up the sled a month ago. The back half of the track is off the ground where as the front half is. Seems weird. The old hyfax's I took off had weird wear to them as well. Thicker in some spots than others. The only new adjustments I've made was I moved the front a-arm to the lower hole in the rail for less ski pressure (according to the owners manual), and I moved the bolt through the middle holes of the torque arm to the upper hole from the bottom hole which also reduces ski pressure (according to the manual). Other than that everything is the same as how it was when I got the sled. I have to check over all the settings and adjust to suit.
Just thought I'd start with the fact that it appears something is wrong with the track not fully sitting on the ground.
If anyone has a sweet setup and cares to share that would be great! I'm 200lbs and the trails I ride probably require "firm" settings as they are far from smooth. Sled also has some pretty aggressive C&A Pro Skis-XT Extreme version and a 1.25" hacksaw track with 96 studs. Ohlins front shocks, and the fox racing rear shocks that are standard on the m10.
Thanks guys.

Btw I will add to this tomorrow when I measure up and check out the other settings
 

Make sure the coupling blocks are not upside down. They were in my m10 when I got it.
 
What about pulling the front down more with the limiter strap. Especially if the front suspension hasnt been switched to longer travel. Also, i Beleive the two things you did to reduce ski pressure would exasperate the problem. You may want more ski pressure
 
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What sled is this in? Oh I see 99srx so the front is down pretty low, friends 98 the back half of the track was off the garage floor a bit. We installed viper spindles and steering arm for easy little gain.
 
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Hammer Down said:
What about pulling the front down more with the limiter strap. Especially if the front suspension hasnt been switched to longer travel. Also, i Beleive the two things you did to reduce ski pressure would exasperate the problem. You may want more ski pressure
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Interesting info. I'm not sure what it was like before so I may try putting it back to what it was. I've heard numerous times that the front end needs to be raised more than stock when an m10 is installed. Just haven't heard that it does what has happened to me in regards to the track not being flat on the ground.
 
captnviper said:
What sled is this in? Oh I see 99srx so the front is down pretty low, friends 98 the back half of the track was off the garage floor a bit. We installed viper spindles and steering arm for easy little gain.
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Ok so you had the same issue with your buddies sled? Do you know what holes were used when mounting the front arm on the rails? And what holes were used in the aluminum torque arms of the m10 to the tunnel of the sled?
What parts are needed and from what year viper to raise the front up? Can the ohlins shocks on the srx still be used? Did raising the front correct the track issue or not really? Thanks
 
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MrSled said:
I need to see some pics and I think it would be much easier to help.
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Damn it! For some reason the pics are rotated. Anyways....the whitish coloring you see under the skid in the one pic is actually light showing through under the skid from the other side. It's off the ground quite a bit. It may explain the weird hyfax wear.
 
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The rear of the track on my viper is off the ground about 3/4". I had no problems with it when i got to try it out. The viper is a little higher in the front so it will help to raise up the front. You can use viper trailing arms and spindles to raise it up a bit. I have this setup to put on my srx just haven't painted it up yet.
 
drew24 said:
The rear of the track on my viper is off the ground about 3/4". I had no problems with it when i got to try it out. The viper is a little higher in the front so it will help to raise up the front. You can use viper trailing arms and spindles to raise it up a bit. I have this setup to put on my srx just haven't painted it up yet.
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So it's just viper trailing arms and spindles that are needed? Quite expensive if buying new lol....I guess people search for used stuff. Thanks for the info on the track situation.
 
I think you are fine the way it is. Maybe not ideal, but not enough to lose sleep over.

You can flip your front shock brackets to help bring the front up.
 
Hey nick, when I send you those pictures tomorrow send me a bunch of your skid setup. I also think a 440ss or 540srv windshield might work on your XLV. And royal sells those..but ill definitely ask my buddy about a windshield.
 
I've just installed the M-20 Skid in my SRX and the track is flat. Did you install the skid or was it already in? is it in the right position? I broke down and bit the bullet and bought the install kit from Team Fast. Glad I did. Got lots of teck info and even though I have a machine shop at home to help me, it was worth it. I have the install pattern and bolt /hole patterns. I'm only 45 min from you. I live north of carnarvon just of 35.
 
Gottohaveitnow said:
I've just installed the M-20 Skid in my SRX and the track is flat. Did you install the skid or was it already in? is it in the right position? I broke down and bit the bullet and bought the install kit from Team Fast. Glad I did. Got lots of teck info and even though I have a machine shop at home to help me, it was worth it. I have the install pattern and bolt /hole patterns. I'm only 45 min from you. I live north of carnarvon just of 35.
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I didn't do the initial install myself. The proper install kit was used though. But that means nothing really. If one hole is wrong the whole thing is wrong lol. Haven't really heard anyone say anything about whether or not there track is flat on the ground other than yourself and the one guy on this thread who said his buddies track was off the ground a bit. I may just have to tweak some things a bit who knows. That's why I started this thread to see what people have ended up with.
 
So just to update this a bit....ended up finding a good write up on an m10 install from this site. It mentioned that the bottom hole in the front torque arm bracket should be used on a pro action suspension sled. That's the way mine was, but after reading the m10 manual that mentioned the top hole would give less ski pressure I said screw it lets try it. Anyways I moved it back to the bottom hole and now the track is flat on the ground. Played with the track tension a bit. Didn't use a tension gauge yet but I've got way looser than the m10 manual calls for lol. They say 3/4" between track and rail with the sled in the air. They don't even mention a lb pressure at 3/4". That's super tight. Talk about resistance!
I found another good write up on this site on saving hyfax's and am gonna lean more towards that setup I think.
The FRA cam bolt thing is a bit confusing. But I think I've got it at 2&3/4 which is suggested for my weight, the preload of the spring is supposed to be around 7/8", I have 3/8"-1/2" right now. Looks like turning the spring perch will be difficult, no where to grab it really even if using one of those spring tools.
Last is the sag, which I haven't checked yet, waiting for my pops to get a chance to come by so we can measure up with weight on the sled. Once I do I'll add that to this. Thanks for all the help guys
 
nick5oh said:
So just to update this a bit....ended up finding a good write up on an m10 install from this site. It mentioned that the bottom hole in the front torque arm bracket should be used on a pro action suspension sled. That's the way mine was, but after reading the m10 manual that mentioned the top hole would give less ski pressure I said screw it lets try it. Anyways I moved it back to the bottom hole and now the track is flat on the ground. Played with the track tension a bit. Didn't use a tension gauge yet but I've got way looser than the m10 manual calls for lol. They say 3/4" between track and rail with the sled in the air. They don't even mention a lb pressure at 3/4". That's super tight. Talk about resistance!
I found another good write up on this site on saving hyfax's and am gonna lean more towards that setup I think.
The FRA cam bolt thing is a bit confusing. But I think I've got it at 2&3/4 which is suggested for my weight, the preload of the spring is supposed to be around 7/8", I have 3/8"-1/2" right now. Looks like turning the spring perch will be difficult, no where to grab it really even if using one of those spring tools.
Last is the sag, which I haven't checked yet, waiting for my pops to get a chance to come by so we can measure up with weight on the sled. Once I do I'll add that to this. Thanks for all the help guys
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Nice work.
 
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