4wealn
Member
Mine is the same way, its just because the ski bolt sits so close to the bottom of the ski.
4wealn
Member
Ok great thank you.
yamahamark
Member
Looks good to me..
4wealn
Member
There is no adjustment needed to the ski angle is there now with these viper skis. I don't recall reading anything from other posts but just thought I would ask.
sleddineinar
VIP Member
With the Viper skis and ski bracket you lost 1.5" of height in the front end. That's why the tail of the ski looks so close to the trailing arm. You can run it like that, but if you want you can also switch to Viper trailing arms and spindles, or switch to viper spindles brackets and add a 1.5" spacer to the bottom of the trailing arm tube. Someone should chime in that's done that. I switched the whole front end to viper set up, but I know some on the site have just done the spindles & spacer.
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BETHEVIPER
Life Member
correct, you lost height, this will make the sled handle better as it is even lower but will mess up your transfer rod settings in the rear as well as strap length settings, assuming everything was correct before.
viper arms and spindles will get you back, or just spindles and weld an extension on your tube. You can long travel the front of your sled to get more travel and the height back by installing viper/xtc/xt shocks and bushings in the frame. again, this all messes up your rear a bit and needs to be adjusted to match.
ski angle may need to be shimmed even worse than normal unless there is an S on the front of your rubber. when you drop the front of the sled down, and not the back, the trailing arm is now pushing down on the front of the ski more than before.
viper arms and spindles will get you back, or just spindles and weld an extension on your tube. You can long travel the front of your sled to get more travel and the height back by installing viper/xtc/xt shocks and bushings in the frame. again, this all messes up your rear a bit and needs to be adjusted to match.
ski angle may need to be shimmed even worse than normal unless there is an S on the front of your rubber. when you drop the front of the sled down, and not the back, the trailing arm is now pushing down on the front of the ski more than before.
drew24
New member
My srx sits quite a bit lower in the front with the saddleless skis and it handles great. Like BTV said you will need to adjust the rear to the front. What is the difference in the rubber with the S and without? My srx with the saddleless skis has the S and the 02 viper doesn't. I need to get new ones for the viper but if the ones with the S are better that's what I want. I have triple points on the viper with the shim kit and it still needs more so I was assuming the rubber is wore out considering I have less shim on the srx and it is perfect.
4wealn
Member
Wow there is more to this than I thought. I am new to the snowmobile scene. I am however mechanically inclined and have built 2 jeeps from bare frames by myself.
In regards to the rubber. do you mean the rubber that is on the ski that goes between the ski and the spindle.
I do have viper long travel front shocks but having to set it all up with the rear I am not comfortable with and do not know what all is involved. How do you know what to setup. I have read about pressure on the front skis but not sure how to do it (what to adjust).
If I just leave it with the viper shocks will it not handle appropriately?
Thanks in advance for all the help.
In regards to the rubber. do you mean the rubber that is on the ski that goes between the ski and the spindle.
I do have viper long travel front shocks but having to set it all up with the rear I am not comfortable with and do not know what all is involved. How do you know what to setup. I have read about pressure on the front skis but not sure how to do it (what to adjust).
If I just leave it with the viper shocks will it not handle appropriately?
Thanks in advance for all the help.
4wealn
Member
Also is there a left and a right ski. If so, how do you tell them apart. Are they marked?
sleddineinar
VIP Member
No. Those skis are the same left or right.Also is there a left and a right ski. If so, how do you tell them apart. Are they marked?
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Well don't keep them to yourself, LET SEE EM!!I am however mechanically inclined and have built 2 jeeps from bare frames by myself.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/75165-what-trucks-do-you-guys-run-!
4wealn
Member
yamahamark
Member
I like the CJ7 they are my favorite jeeps my dad had one with a big block 360 that was really tipsy but would go anywhere it was on 38 super swampers.
4wealn
Member
The one that looks like a YJ (square headlights) has an AMC 360 bored .30 over with cam and intake and have converted to fuel injection with on board air, full MSD ignition, the list can go on and on. It sits on 35 Boggers
4wealn
Member
Getting back to my original problem. I picked up some viper spindles and trailing arms, well actually only the right arm as that is all he had at the moment. I was then told that I would need to replace the piece that attaches to the top of the spindle as the groves between mine and the viper are different, so I picked those up too. The trailing arms are stamped with an M. I have also read that the different letters mean different angles. Is this correct and with this arm work with my steering or do I have to reset the whole front end. I am into this now and will need to figure out before the snow flies here. I have a new track I would love to try out.
All this for plastic skis with dual carbides....lol
All this for plastic skis with dual carbides....lol
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
yes, viper arms, either mountain or trail version, spindles and crank arms. dont worry about the letter stamped into the front. the different is in the angles of the spindle and shock mount. Everything will bolt up. You will want to do a full alignment after you install everything, including your ski rubbers.
The S rubbers have more material in the rear and on some setups, need no shimming. Nothing worth buying new only to find out you need to shim it a little more anyway.
The S rubbers have more material in the rear and on some setups, need no shimming. Nothing worth buying new only to find out you need to shim it a little more anyway.
4wealn
Member
Hey guys, just wanted to send out a big thank you to all that chimed in and gave me advice. We finally got some snow here in my area and got out for a 100km ride this aft. The sled rode awesome. I am very happy to have converted to the viper skis even after all the questions and the parts I needed, to me it was worth it. It does not dart anymore.
I replaced the my stock trailing arms with the viper ones along with the saddles, steering arms, and skis (with dual woody carbides). I did the best I could for an alignment and got the camber to spec and the toe out was about 4-5mm total.
I also installed a new rip saw 2, 1.25" track. The combination for me is great. It drove like a dream.
I plan on getting a buddy of mine to make me a rod this summer(like the one in the pro action video to do the alignment and camber). He owns a machine shop so it will not cost me any more than the price of the steel rod that he will have to shave down.
Thanks again everyone, your help was greatly appreciated.
I replaced the my stock trailing arms with the viper ones along with the saddles, steering arms, and skis (with dual woody carbides). I did the best I could for an alignment and got the camber to spec and the toe out was about 4-5mm total.
I also installed a new rip saw 2, 1.25" track. The combination for me is great. It drove like a dream.
I plan on getting a buddy of mine to make me a rod this summer(like the one in the pro action video to do the alignment and camber). He owns a machine shop so it will not cost me any more than the price of the steel rod that he will have to shave down.
Thanks again everyone, your help was greatly appreciated.