Proaction transfer rod/suspension questions HELP PLEASE!

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R-D73

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I have a 98 sx700, I'm trying to follow be the vipers proaction setup and am not being very successful. I have center shock at 0 preload, I'm assuming this is set with shock fully extended? I have ts3 benders and just got them freed up. I have fra in upper setting for soft and have the preload on back shock also set at basically no preload. Mind you I'm trying to finish up this build, I have never rode the sled and it was a rat when I bought it. So I don't really know if the rods are long or are short from an sxr model. With no preload on either shock I get no transfer rod movement at all with or without me in the sled. The limiter straps are set full loose and with the front of track just on the ground the rear is up off the ground at least 6", this makes me think I have short transfer rods in my rearward holes behind the back bogie wheels and that this is causing my issues. I just went through skid and it is not bent and busted up as I have read to check that. Somebody please help me out, trying to get this done this evening if I can. Or if somebody could give me a measurement on either a long or short transfer rod that may help to. Also if I do end up having the short rods I could use a measurement as to where I need to drill the new holes in the rail to accept a short transfer rod. Thank you again, any help is greatly appreciated as I have been on here searching for a few hours
 

Just making sure you do have sled flat on ground and not on dollys? I would move FRA to middle as a starting point and suck up limiters just a bit 10-15mm of bolt showing. Then sit on sled rocking it around a bit and lean over and your transfer rods should move. If not they may be froze up still. Do you have any pic's? A 98sx would have been short travel stock but it should not make any difference as BTV's skid post was done off a SRX.
 
Sled is on flat ground, the ts3's were froze, they had been adjusted all the way out (no top gap at all) I was able to get them to move, I just adjusted them all the way in just to see if I could get any transfer rod movement. The sled is at my dad's and I am planning on going back over there in a couple hours so I can get some pics then. What's kinda making me think I have short rods is the huge difference in the front and rear of the skid,the rear is roughly 6"off the ground with the front touching. This thing has me puzzled lol
 
I'll check back later to see your pictures of what your setup is for shocks, skis, rods, etc. tc3 rods are garbage. No way to grease them. As you have found, this is a problem. after you post your pictures, email me and I'll post back here to help you out. betheviper1@gmail.com

thanks for not thinking Im a girl name beth
 
so, I don't know what kind of shocks those are, gold but not ohlins.

so it looks like the skid has been long traveled judging by the space between the bump stop hanging.

the front has been lowered by changing to a low mount ski. About an inch.

the rods are long travel, long rods mounted in the correct location. It does look like in the picture there is no plastic washer on top. You should have a thin one there too keep the noise down. also, it doesn't look like there is a plastic washer on the lower side either. On a long travel sled, the lower plastic washer should be around 4mm ish.

With those installed, set total gap to 14mm and start adjusting as per skid setup to get to a 60/40 gap with you and a tank of gas on the sled. Once your done, adjust your toe and carbide pressure. Raising the back of the sled and lowering the front creates even more front carbide pressure causing worse darting than stock which was bad already.

Don't worry about the lower front end. It will still ride decent and will handle great, be aware how low it is when you see that snow chunk in the trail.

I'll check back to see what you found.
 
There is a very thin washer on top of transfer rod, in pic it is just stuck up to the metal washer/stopper on the rod, below the rod is a thicker, appears to be tapered on the lower side of the rod. However difficult to tell in picture again is with the transfer rod bolt tight, there is about an 1/8th inch or just a bit larger gap between the bottom tapered spacer and the washer. It is like this on both sides. I would think there should be no gap there and with the suspension unloaded that the spacer and washer on the bolt should be touching, maybe I'm wrong. Does this thicker tapered washer be causing an issue as you stated it should be thinner on the bottom as well? Thank you again
 
Alright I will check the thickness on it and go ahead and pull lower bolts from the rail and be 100 percent they aren't froze up.
 
20160113_114847.jpg20160113_114847.jpg 20160113_114825.jpg so I popped my rear bogie off and slid other out so I could remove transfer rods from rails, after I got bolts out I have found both to be seized on the steel slide, I am soaking them right now. I am going back to work tonight, so won't get any time to mess with it again until Sunday. BTV do these spacers look ok? After I get them to free up I will continue following your setup procedure. Once again thank you for the great info and keep your eyes peeled Sunday/Monday as I will be posting back results/any more questions. I can't stand reading some good info, then people just stop posting. Anyways, rant over thank you guys again and I will be posting my results early next week.
 
now that the pictures are clearer, yes, looks like the spacers are correct. Those style rods are not great. if you keep the sled, I recomend just getting viper style rods or just putting stock slides back on that you can grease the ends. The first version of Bender rods(hot rods) were great, they were made on the upper rod and used the stock slide. You could adjust both end gaps as well. When the srx went to short rods in 2000, bender switched to this style so it would fit either version. You will need to remove them to grease and clean them often if you want them to always work.
 
Alright good to know that the spacers are ok, the design on them are absolutely terrible. I'll probably just try to get em freed up Sunday and see what happens, I don't care to lightly oil them or whatever I need to do. I live in southern Illinois,so my yearly mileage is way lower than most. However I still really enjoy riding sleds, who knows, maybe a riding trip somewhere up north one of these years. Thanks again everyone. I'll post up results Sunday or Monday
 
the problem with pumping them full of grease is you could only decrease the gap from there as the piston that moves in and out would be pushing on the grease.
 
Ok, so I'm a day later than I said, but just got rods freed up, had to get torch after em, took rods apart and put new o rings and cleaned and put plenty of antisieze on threads inside rods. Going to start setting her up now. I'll post back later this evening with results. I'm hoping good!
 
So got it set up, only issue that I could possibly see is when I set my limiters, to get it with the front just touching and rear is up off ground about 1 3/4" I only have a measured 1/4"of threads left on limiter adjusters, it seems like I took the majority of the travel away from it. However I have my transfers at about 50 50 probably a bit closer to 60 40 but real close, measured with dial caliper, want off enough for me to adjust rear shock again. Planning on maybe a little test run in morning, we are actually getting a bit of snow tonight, I guess we will see how it goes
 
The limiters are a preference so what I give in the setup is a staring point. Cut a 12mm ratchet wrench off at about 3 -4 inches and take it with you, easy to adjust on the trail.
 
Rode sled today suspension felt pretty good, a little rough, probably back off limiter straps some to gain some travel. Seemed real good as far as transfer goes, picked up skis maybe and inch and felt like it was gonna rip me off the back lol. Just have some more clutch work to do, over revving some, but felt good to actually ride it after all the work. Thank you for all your help, now down to some clutch work and she should be good to go! Thank you again, this site is great!
 
As BTV said its just a starting point. Let those limiters way out, i always kept about 15MM left to the end of bolt, and they were perfect. YOur way to tight up front.
 
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