apex/viper rider
Member
here is my issue 2003 viper extended to 144, 8 tooth drivers, stock 121" gearing ran great last year with stock exhaust i put on a set of cpr hauck pipes running 162.5 main jets 47.5 pilot jets needles in 4th groove both washers on top on pto side mag and center one on top one on bottom of clip stock air box complete took sled for a ride stock clutching would bog anything more then half throttle put a heel clicker kit in to there specs 4.8 grams in heal 0 in middle and 3.3 grams in the tip red spring.secondary stock on the stand cant get sled to rev over 8000 rpm compression test mag and center 120 pto 115 any info appreciated just dont get it what am i missing please some input
apex/viper rider
Member
these are the pipes
yes cpr/hauck pipes your jetting sound good, this post below should help you out, especially 4and5
Tips for use with h/c weights by By MrViper700
1.) use 15 or 15.6 rollers-I know, you want to know why now,- you can’t simply hook up the smaller rollers, they explode with too much low end and it is about impossible to get traction, and it’s a much better shift curve with the larger rollers. You run more weight in the arms with bigger rollers!
2.) Use red primary spring only, 230/360 rate, it’s the only spring that allows you to run any amount of weight in the arms so to make the h/c advantageous to use. The softer springs simply just don’t produce the performance without the enabling of weight in the arms.
3.) If you’re running a srx or viper with stock pipe at 8500rpm, then you want to use allot of heel weight and tip weight only, leave the middle hole empty, this allows you to tune in the engagement, and keep the top end of the sled, by using the middle hole it slows down the response from the engine and ruins the shift curve.
4.) you need a shallow finish angle to use h/c's anything from a 50'ish start to a 34 finish works good, some of the common helix I use all the time are: 50/36, 48/34, 48/36, 49/36, you get the idea, stay shallow on the finish and it will pull very respectable top end and allows you to run lots of tip weight, so now your hanging onto the belt in both the primary and the secondary. The h/c weights already act like a progressive angle helix, so you’re not going to be up in the big helix start/finish angles now. A shallow finish does 2 things it clamps the belt harder in the secondary and does not require as much spring tension from the secondary spring because of this, by using only enough rear secondary spring tension it will allow the sled to run faster on top end, you only want to control the shift with the rear spring tension, not over power it!
5.) Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper, etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhood of 8800-9100rpm, and this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torque/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its allot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes a long time and distance to recover from the over shift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
6.) In some applications I run 5,6,7 washers in the heel to get the clutch to hang onto the belt, this gives you a nice low engagement and really hangs onto the belt for a super good hole shot, will stretch your arms. Stay around 4000rpm for snow. I also sometimes run the long bolt and 3-4 washers on the tip, the only thing you have to do is watch the clearance to the spider, it sometimes requires you to simply just face off the bolt slightly on the rounded head on a grinder to clear the spider sides, easy to check, just swing the weight thru its cycle without the primary spring in it.
This is the basic things to do, you have to test, retest, test, to get it fine tuned, but h/c's work very well and I use them all the time. I have not found any weights that are close to the same kind of clamping power other then the supertips that srxspec sells are equally good, I am working with them now, they show great potential. I have set up enough sleds that I can just about guess to within a 1-200rpm range of what will work, these weights work!!, but you have to follow some of these guidelines, or you’ll be pulling your hair out !
Totallyamaha is not responsible for any damages that these modifications may cause to your vehicle; any modifications are your responsibility if you choose to do so. We are providing information ONLY. Some of these modifications may VOID your warranty and that is your responsibility to look into. The Totallyamaha users have passed along most of the information found on this site. If you have any questions or concerns about anything on this site talk to your dealer before using any of the information. Totallyamaha will not be liable for any damages or personal injury from any modification performed from this site.
Tips for use with h/c weights by By MrViper700
1.) use 15 or 15.6 rollers-I know, you want to know why now,- you can’t simply hook up the smaller rollers, they explode with too much low end and it is about impossible to get traction, and it’s a much better shift curve with the larger rollers. You run more weight in the arms with bigger rollers!
2.) Use red primary spring only, 230/360 rate, it’s the only spring that allows you to run any amount of weight in the arms so to make the h/c advantageous to use. The softer springs simply just don’t produce the performance without the enabling of weight in the arms.
3.) If you’re running a srx or viper with stock pipe at 8500rpm, then you want to use allot of heel weight and tip weight only, leave the middle hole empty, this allows you to tune in the engagement, and keep the top end of the sled, by using the middle hole it slows down the response from the engine and ruins the shift curve.
4.) you need a shallow finish angle to use h/c's anything from a 50'ish start to a 34 finish works good, some of the common helix I use all the time are: 50/36, 48/34, 48/36, 49/36, you get the idea, stay shallow on the finish and it will pull very respectable top end and allows you to run lots of tip weight, so now your hanging onto the belt in both the primary and the secondary. The h/c weights already act like a progressive angle helix, so you’re not going to be up in the big helix start/finish angles now. A shallow finish does 2 things it clamps the belt harder in the secondary and does not require as much spring tension from the secondary spring because of this, by using only enough rear secondary spring tension it will allow the sled to run faster on top end, you only want to control the shift with the rear spring tension, not over power it!
5.) Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper, etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhood of 8800-9100rpm, and this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torque/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its allot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes a long time and distance to recover from the over shift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
6.) In some applications I run 5,6,7 washers in the heel to get the clutch to hang onto the belt, this gives you a nice low engagement and really hangs onto the belt for a super good hole shot, will stretch your arms. Stay around 4000rpm for snow. I also sometimes run the long bolt and 3-4 washers on the tip, the only thing you have to do is watch the clearance to the spider, it sometimes requires you to simply just face off the bolt slightly on the rounded head on a grinder to clear the spider sides, easy to check, just swing the weight thru its cycle without the primary spring in it.
This is the basic things to do, you have to test, retest, test, to get it fine tuned, but h/c's work very well and I use them all the time. I have not found any weights that are close to the same kind of clamping power other then the supertips that srxspec sells are equally good, I am working with them now, they show great potential. I have set up enough sleds that I can just about guess to within a 1-200rpm range of what will work, these weights work!!, but you have to follow some of these guidelines, or you’ll be pulling your hair out !
Totallyamaha is not responsible for any damages that these modifications may cause to your vehicle; any modifications are your responsibility if you choose to do so. We are providing information ONLY. Some of these modifications may VOID your warranty and that is your responsibility to look into. The Totallyamaha users have passed along most of the information found on this site. If you have any questions or concerns about anything on this site talk to your dealer before using any of the information. Totallyamaha will not be liable for any damages or personal injury from any modification performed from this site.
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my opinion your stock helix isn't going to work with heelclickers you need to be around 48-50 start 36-40 finish would fit the bill, 48-36 would work real good no weight in the tip just heel and middle
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apex/viper rider
Member
so you feel its all in the clutching this is killing me right now because i cant even test i can only run on stand this winter is killing me no snow if i run the 48/36 helix what spring stock? and do i run 6-1 stock also sorry for all the questions
yea I have no snow either its killing me to, I would start green at 6-1 on secondary and its just a band aid for now but till u can get a green secondary spring you could always use your red spring at 6-3 just to test. also have you cleaned and adjusted your powervalves that could be robbing some power but I think with weight in the tip and your stock helix is where your hurting the most, u good always take the weight out of the tip and I seen in another post u have a 49-41 that will get u closer and your rpm should go up. u want 9100-9300
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Youllbe2nd
New member
Agreed stock helix is no good for that
Sent from my E6560C using Tapatalk
Sent from my E6560C using Tapatalk
apex/viper rider
Member
thnx very much i will start w that i was thinking it was something more then clutching thanks again
apex/viper rider
Member
do u know where i can get the green spring from thanks
90508-556A2-00 is the part # for green Yamaha secondary spring any Yamaha dealer can get it for u
apex/viper rider
Member
well did everything still just not right fine until u stab the the thrittle seems like it just cant take it im leaning toward leaning out the carbs
this is jetting right from cpr 160 main for pto and center 162.5 for mag, needles are 4th groove with washer on top and bottom for pto and center mag side both wahers on bottom 4th groove. 50 pilots 2-2.5 turns on fuel screw. this is with vent hose hooked to airbox. make sure your breather hose is to airbox because if its not it will run real rich and u will not be able to pull rpm
apex/viper rider
Member
that i will try hauck says disconect the vent tube from air box ok thanks again i will update u on that
yes u can run it unhooked but u need to be around 150-152.5 on mains and run your breather hose down under the carbs
apex/viper rider
Member
yes u are right they recomend 150 mains if u unhook this was makin me nuts and i just knew it was gonna be something so stupid and right in my face i appreciate all ur help im gonna run it tomorrow and i will defenetlly let u know
apex/viper rider
Member
just to update you hooked the vent back to air box runs great pulls rpm im on long island i think we have more snow then up north so i took it to a friend who has a small farm down here just enough to test it and get the rpms to climb up there pulled good thanks again for your help
