sxviperliam
New member
I am not very familiar with clutches but want to learn. I want to completely rebuild my clutches with all new parts, what parts do I need, where can I order them? I also want to put the 40-10 heel clicker kit in, what should I run for a helix for aggressive trail riding? Any good set ups ?
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if you are not concerned with top speed, pm kirkswim on here as he had a wicked corner to corner set up on his single piped viper. still hit 105mph with enough realestate.
sxviperliam
New member
Thanks for the help guys
What do I need to order to rebuild my clutches? Like what size rollers etc.
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What do I need to order to rebuild my clutches? Like what size rollers etc.
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Youllbe2nd
New member
There is a kit you can get from Yamaha dealer. Which will come with everything you need. I recommend only OEM parts for clutches. Your going to want 15.6mm rollers with heel clickers.
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sxviperliam
New member
Thanks I will try that, if anybody else has any input on heelclickers set ups or which helix I should run, I would apreciate any and all help.
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sxviperliam
New member
Captnviper I can't open the link you sent, it says error 404
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Here is what the link leads to.
Tips for use with h/c weights by By MrViper700
1.) use 15 or 15.6 rollers-I know, you want to know why now,- you can’t simply hook up the smaller rollers, they explode with too much low end and it is about impossible to get traction, and it’s a much better shift curve with the larger rollers. You run more weight in the arms with bigger rollers!
2.) Use red primary spring only, 230/360 rate, it’s the only spring that allows you to run any amount of weight in the arms so to make the h/c advantageous to use. The softer springs simply just don’t produce the performance without the enabling of weight in the arms.
3.) If you’re running a srx or viper with stock pipe at 8500rpm, then you want to use allot of heel weight and tip weight only, leave the middle hole empty, this allows you to tune in the engagement, and keep the top end of the sled, by using the middle hole it slows down the response from the engine and ruins the shift curve.
4.) you need a shallow finish angle to use h/c's anything from a 50'ish start to a 34 finish works good, some of the common helix I use all the time are: 50/36, 48/34, 48/36, 49/36, you get the idea, stay shallow on the finish and it will pull very respectable top end and allows you to run lots of tip weight, so now your hanging onto the belt in both the primary and the secondary. The h/c weights already act like a progressive angle helix, so you’re not going to be up in the big helix start/finish angles now. A shallow finish does 2 things it clamps the belt harder in the secondary and does not require as much spring tension from the secondary spring because of this, by using only enough rear secondary spring tension it will allow the sled to run faster on top end, you only want to control the shift with the rear spring tension, not over power it!
5.) Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper, etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhood of 8800-9100rpm, and this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torque/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its allot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes a long time and distance to recover from the over shift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
6.) In some applications I run 5,6,7 washers in the heel to get the clutch to hang onto the belt, this gives you a nice low engagement and really hangs onto the belt for a super good hole shot, will stretch your arms. Stay around 4000rpm for snow. I also sometimes run the long bolt and 3-4 washers on the tip, the only thing you have to do is watch the clearance to the spider, it sometimes requires you to simply just face off the bolt slightly on the rounded head on a grinder to clear the spider sides, easy to check, just swing the weight thru its cycle without the primary spring in it.
This is the basic things to do, you have to test, retest, test, to get it fine tuned, but h/c's work very well and I use them all the time. I have not found any weights that are close to the same kind of clamping power other then the supertips that srxspec sells are equally good, I am working with them now, they show great potential. I have set up enough sleds that I can just about guess to within a 1-200rpm range of what will work, these weights work!!, but you have to follow some of these guidelines, or you’ll be pulling your hair out !
Tips for use with h/c weights by By MrViper700
1.) use 15 or 15.6 rollers-I know, you want to know why now,- you can’t simply hook up the smaller rollers, they explode with too much low end and it is about impossible to get traction, and it’s a much better shift curve with the larger rollers. You run more weight in the arms with bigger rollers!
2.) Use red primary spring only, 230/360 rate, it’s the only spring that allows you to run any amount of weight in the arms so to make the h/c advantageous to use. The softer springs simply just don’t produce the performance without the enabling of weight in the arms.
3.) If you’re running a srx or viper with stock pipe at 8500rpm, then you want to use allot of heel weight and tip weight only, leave the middle hole empty, this allows you to tune in the engagement, and keep the top end of the sled, by using the middle hole it slows down the response from the engine and ruins the shift curve.
4.) you need a shallow finish angle to use h/c's anything from a 50'ish start to a 34 finish works good, some of the common helix I use all the time are: 50/36, 48/34, 48/36, 49/36, you get the idea, stay shallow on the finish and it will pull very respectable top end and allows you to run lots of tip weight, so now your hanging onto the belt in both the primary and the secondary. The h/c weights already act like a progressive angle helix, so you’re not going to be up in the big helix start/finish angles now. A shallow finish does 2 things it clamps the belt harder in the secondary and does not require as much spring tension from the secondary spring because of this, by using only enough rear secondary spring tension it will allow the sled to run faster on top end, you only want to control the shift with the rear spring tension, not over power it!
5.) Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper, etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhood of 8800-9100rpm, and this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torque/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its allot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes a long time and distance to recover from the over shift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
6.) In some applications I run 5,6,7 washers in the heel to get the clutch to hang onto the belt, this gives you a nice low engagement and really hangs onto the belt for a super good hole shot, will stretch your arms. Stay around 4000rpm for snow. I also sometimes run the long bolt and 3-4 washers on the tip, the only thing you have to do is watch the clearance to the spider, it sometimes requires you to simply just face off the bolt slightly on the rounded head on a grinder to clear the spider sides, easy to check, just swing the weight thru its cycle without the primary spring in it.
This is the basic things to do, you have to test, retest, test, to get it fine tuned, but h/c's work very well and I use them all the time. I have not found any weights that are close to the same kind of clamping power other then the supertips that srxspec sells are equally good, I am working with them now, they show great potential. I have set up enough sleds that I can just about guess to within a 1-200rpm range of what will work, these weights work!!, but you have to follow some of these guidelines, or you’ll be pulling your hair out !
sxviperliam
New member
Wow! That clears up a lot of things for me and answers lots of questions. Good write up
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