Can't get chaincase off viper Help!

82SRX500

82SRX500

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
91
Age
55
Location
Hampshire, IL
Website
www.toizrit.com
Guys, I am trying to replace my wrecked track on my 2002 viper. I have everything ready, but I can not get the chaincase off. Seems like I have to remove the parking brake? How can you remove the break when the bolt buts up against a cooling line made in aluminum? Am I missing something. I can get the case to move about a 1/2 inch from the frame then it seems locked up against the parking break. This is driving me nuts!@. Help!!

Toizrit@comcast.net.
 
This is a very common problem and I actually expect this to happen everytime I work on a chaincase removal. The problem is that you have to get the jack shaft and the drive out at the same time so it is a very annoying process. If you have a rubber mallet or something, give the brake disk a couple good taps until it comes off. You have to wiggle with it for a while. Just double check and make sure that their are no bolts that you havent taken off yet and give it a couple hits, it will go.

good luck
 
So you are saying that the disk has to slide off too? not just the case from the jack shaft? I thought the disk stayed on the shaft like on the old sleds. If that is the case, then I guess I need to start banging away on the disk to get it to slide off too so then the parking break really has nothing to do with my not getting the chaincase off? Is this correct?

Thanks,

Jon
 
Chaincase removal

Jon,
You are correct leave the parking brake alone. The rotor comes off with the chaincase. It won't be nesseccary to remove the cable to the parking brake either. Jon lets not get carried away with the banging away. It should slide off with the chaincase nice an eazy. --mac--
 
there is no need to remove the chaincase completly just remove the cover and the gears and chain and chain tensioner. i have done this many times on the new yamaha's and have never removed the brakes.
 
Guys, thanks so much for the help on this one!!! My God, I spent a couple hours out there in the garage working on trying to get that chain case off. The parking brake was not coming off, I was just about ready to bring it to the dealer. I have worked on lots of vintage Yamaha's but not much at all on my new ones. I thought the rotor was stationary like on the old Vmax 540's. I did not know it actually came off with the case. After several minutes of pounding with the rubber mallet and a pry bar with similar motion it was able to slide off. Unreal. What a nightmare changing these tracks when you don't know what you are doing. I also did not know that you had to take the end bolt off the speedo side. I thought that the bearing would slide off, lots of effort wasted there too trying to pull it off. Learned that this bolt was there for a reason.

Again, thanks for the prompt help on this. Now I can salvage the rest of the season.

PS. careful jumping and landing on the rear axle. I broke a clip/window out three track rods, bent the rear axle and bent the snot out of the track adjuster. Better to land flat than vertical on hard pack!
 
use anti-seize liberally on the mating surface between the tunnel and the chaincase to help reduce the stick factor.

this is one spot where I prefer the SD system of studs rather than bolts. generally come off easier (dunno why) and are MUCH easier to get back on.
 
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