700 Red Head Mountain Max coolant air bleeding help

L

lil3incher

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Joined
Feb 2, 2014
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97
Location
Rushoon, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
I recently damaged the rear of my sled and had to remove the rear heat exchanger to repair it, Tried removing the bleeder screw in the rear, running the machine until air bubbles come out, then try topping up fluid through the coolant cap, the heat exchangers get hot but the one on the right side gets alot hotter than the other ones, i have already added about almost a liter of coolant and she is still not full, If any one can tell me step by step process it would be a big help, Starting to get fed up with it, shouldn't be this hard, any and all help will be great , thanks
 

Jus bled mine by putting the front of sled on my trailer and leaving the back down. Left the main line cap off and started and ran it for 5 mins. It sloshed abit out but after I put the cap back on I ran all day, no overheat and coolant level never changed...

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I had a bottle handy and every time it sucked it down I topped it off in the line. Then filled the tank to max line and ran it.

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I always fill it and put the cap on sitting normal. Then I raise the rear of the sled quite high and work the hoses to work the fliud into the engine as best you can, you should hear it bubbling. Then lower the rear until the bleed screw is about even with the fill cap. Pull the screw and slowly lower until fluid comes out steady. Replace the screw and then run it until warm and let it cool. Repeat the part of raising the rear and removing the bleeder screw until fluid comes out steady.
 
Depending on how much coolant came out while it was apart you might have a bubble in the block too. Have you bled the block at the water neck on the head yet?
 
Just take the top bolt on the clutch side out of the water pump. Slide a flat container under there to catch the fluid. Remove the exhaust to gain access. Replace the bolt as soon as the flow is all fluid without bubbles.
 
The water neck on the top of the head has a bleeder screw in it. You just open it up to vent air like the rear cooler. Make sure the coolant is up to the filler cap level in the hose the. Take the screw out. When the system is dry/almost dry you start with this screw out so the air will come out of the block as it fills. The filler neck in the hose should be just a little bit higher with the sled sitting on a natural stance when you take the screw out. I bet your going to get a bunch of air. Keep pouring coolant in until no more air comes out.

If you decide to dump all the coolant and start from scratch do your initial pour in with both bleeder plugs out. The rear cooler should be higher than the motor with he sled sitting flat so plug the water neck when that flows coolant then keep pouring until you get coolant out the back. I had my sled drained to do a tunnel extension and bleeding it this way all the air came out on the initial fill.
 
remove the bleeder and grind a flat spot on it, it makes bleeding the coolant much easier, you will only have to back the screw out a couple threads. If you don't have a lift, just stand on the sled and shake it back and forth to loosen any bubbles. always make sure when you loosen or titen the bleeder that it is lower than the head and the cap is off.
 
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