Powervalves


Well I got my new repaired powervalves(looked nice) and now she's pulling 8,300 rpm instead of 7,000. Felt much better. I still need to adjust them though. I see there's 2 methods to adjust them so I took option 3 and hammered on it instead. Thanks for the info
 
Which method are you guys using to set the powervalves? I don't think I want to mess with the electrical system and risk frying something.
 
- fire up your sled
- turn idle down below 900rpm and servo will open
- put a mark on the servo wheel and corresponding mark on servo housing so you know where full open is
- turn sled off
- loosen valve housing
- slide two 2.5mm Allen keys between The housing
- adjust cables until Allen keys are are snug. Not too tight.
-Button it up and turn idle back up.

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Simple enough. I'll do that tonight. .. How do the PV operate.? Do they open at high rpm? What is the benefit? Does it change compression ratio. Can they be 'tuned' to open/close at different rpm or are they set it and leave it?
 
I noticed when I adjusted mine the cable tended to tip the housing to one side, so you gotta kinda get a feel for how they feel with your hand. The concept behind the powervalve is to be able to run exhaust that flows enough at top rpm while maintaining low end throttle response. I like to think off trying to use a garden hose for a straw, you will not be able to pull liquid, but if you use a pump thats made for a garden hose it works fine now use a straw on the pump, it will restrict flow. Make any sense?
 
Hammer Down said:
Simple enough. I'll do that tonight. .. How do the PV operate.? Do they open at high rpm? What is the benefit? Does it change compression ratio. Can they be 'tuned' to open/close at different rpm or are they set it and leave it?
Click to expand...

the powervalves operate off the electric servo motor, they are controlled by the cdi box, the powervalves begin to open and raise the exh. port at 6000rpm, this allows the engine to rev higher and make more topend hp, then when under that rpm they close and lower the exhaust port, making the engine have more bottomend torq, this is what gives that engine a great power feeling from beginning to wide open. The valves also will open up at 900 or less rpm as a self clean feature so everytime you shut it off, it cycles the valves to try to keep them from sticking. They need to be set correctly as mentioned. measure the gap between the housing and powervalve block with a 2.5mm allen wrench just adjust the cables till you have the same gap side to side(2.5mm) you don't remove the housing bolts, just loosen them till they are not hampering the block from coming open this will help you keep the housing straighter and makes it easier to do.
 
Thanks for all the help/info. I've got them set properly. Now on to clutching and front suspension.
 
By the way,,,,, I use a coat hanger,,, That is 2.5mm,,,, cut,, in a(U) shape,,,,,,,,,, is much easyer to adjust by yourself...............
 
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