So I purchased a 2001 srx700 it has an m10 with team fast long travel. http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/101821-new-to-me-2001
The steering is really heavy I want to reduce steering effort while maintaining the way the sled handles. I was thinking letting the limiter out a little but not sure this will accomplish my goal, as it is real heavy. I found this post http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/91165-long-travel-srx?highlight=heavy+steering post #4 mentions sealed steering bearing but I cant find anymore on this. Any help pointing me in tghe right direction would be appreciated.
The steering is really heavy I want to reduce steering effort while maintaining the way the sled handles. I was thinking letting the limiter out a little but not sure this will accomplish my goal, as it is real heavy. I found this post http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/threads/91165-long-travel-srx?highlight=heavy+steering post #4 mentions sealed steering bearing but I cant find anymore on this. Any help pointing me in tghe right direction would be appreciated.
super1c
Super Moderator
With the long travel set up i found putting the center shock at full preload as long as the front does not tip up to help a lot. Did not affect ride, but this is with proactions skids but may aply to the M10
What skis? In addition to letting the limiters out, try reducing the preload on the ski shocks. As with any suspension tuning, do one thing at a time and test and be sure to document your starting points as a reference.
Ski's are stock. It has works dual rate springs it seems a little stiff but Im not sure on how to adjust them. Here is there tuning tech
"The typical Works shock consists of the long main spring, a short second spring, a sliding go between ring, and the cross over rings which effect the size of the gap.
As the shock compresses, both springs are working resulting in a relatively soft spring rate, since two springs stacked result in a softer rate than either spring acting alone. As the shock continues to compress, the sliding go between ring contacts the cross over rings which provides a solid “stop” and “lock-out” the smaller spring. At this point, the short second spring is, in effect, taken out of the process, causing the long main spring to be the only one working. This results in a stiffer spring rate for the rest of the travel.
The system has two major advantages over a progressively wound spring. We can more closely match beginning and final spring rates for individual applications and the cross over point from soft to stiff can be adjusted. The cross over point is controlled by the gap between the sliding go between and the cross over rings. The gap is the amount the short second spring will compress before it gets “locked-out”. A larger gap will cause the rate to stay softer for more of the travel while a smaller gap will cause the rate to be stiffer sooner. The gap is adjusted by installing or removing cross over rings of various thicknesses.
As an example, if we have a long main spring with a 100 pound rate and a short second spring with a 240 pound rate, the initial spring rate will be 71 pounds until the small spring is “locked-out”. At this point we are operating only with the long main spring and its 100 pound rate. This combination will provide a soft (71 pound rate) ride at lower speeds, and then provide a firm (100 pound rate) at higher speeds and we can vary the point that the rate changes from 71 to 100 pounds by changing the size of the gap."
"The typical Works shock consists of the long main spring, a short second spring, a sliding go between ring, and the cross over rings which effect the size of the gap.
As the shock compresses, both springs are working resulting in a relatively soft spring rate, since two springs stacked result in a softer rate than either spring acting alone. As the shock continues to compress, the sliding go between ring contacts the cross over rings which provides a solid “stop” and “lock-out” the smaller spring. At this point, the short second spring is, in effect, taken out of the process, causing the long main spring to be the only one working. This results in a stiffer spring rate for the rest of the travel.
The system has two major advantages over a progressively wound spring. We can more closely match beginning and final spring rates for individual applications and the cross over point from soft to stiff can be adjusted. The cross over point is controlled by the gap between the sliding go between and the cross over rings. The gap is the amount the short second spring will compress before it gets “locked-out”. A larger gap will cause the rate to stay softer for more of the travel while a smaller gap will cause the rate to be stiffer sooner. The gap is adjusted by installing or removing cross over rings of various thicknesses.
As an example, if we have a long main spring with a 100 pound rate and a short second spring with a 240 pound rate, the initial spring rate will be 71 pounds until the small spring is “locked-out”. At this point we are operating only with the long main spring and its 100 pound rate. This combination will provide a soft (71 pound rate) ride at lower speeds, and then provide a firm (100 pound rate) at higher speeds and we can vary the point that the rate changes from 71 to 100 pounds by changing the size of the gap."
The works shocks will either have a threaded adjuster for the pre-load or they will utilize a spacer at the bottom. If the spacer is the case, they used to be available in different thicknesses, you will have to contact works or one of their dealers. Thicker spacers = more preload.
Hartman Inc is/was a good source for works shock info. 208 468 1073.
Hartman Inc is/was a good source for works shock info. 208 468 1073.
I see in your link to the sled that those are threaded adjusters and they are waaay cranked up! What you need to do is back the adjuster down and soften the pre-load. I dont have the minimum thread exposure at hand, but I can tell you there is one. You need to figure out which model shock that is and find the specifics for them.
At the base of the spring, in your case the bulkhead side, you will see the adjuster nut. Its the part up against the spring's mounting cup and may take a special tool or some presidential engineering. I always ran those shocks the other direction with the threaded portion towards the ski. I may have had them upside down or you do. Either way I dont think the shocks care much. With the oem shocks, the threads always went toward the ski.
At the base of the spring, in your case the bulkhead side, you will see the adjuster nut. Its the part up against the spring's mounting cup and may take a special tool or some presidential engineering. I always ran those shocks the other direction with the threaded portion towards the ski. I may have had them upside down or you do. Either way I dont think the shocks care much. With the oem shocks, the threads always went toward the ski.
when yo say, heavy stearing, what do you mean? You work alot to keep it straight, or the bars turn hard.
Looks like a blt front end from years ago. They sold wide kits that included works front ends.
lift the sled up in the front and confirm your stearing is smooth and easy, not dry and stiff. Sometimes you can have a bent spindle that will bind in the tube causing drag on stearing.
Skis should be ballanced and shimmed to be even for dual runner or rear down for single carbides.
as far as the skid, it is adjusted in almost every way, just like a pro action. the only differnce is the location of the FRA is now within the rail and the slide gaps reverse effect and are not adjustable unless you remove and cut them.
Within reason, your front can be a couple inches up or down for ride height and the rear skid can be adjusted to it and handle great.
with a long travel sled, I would make sure on the shim of the ski, long traveling a sled and adding a taller skid really messes up the carbide pressure
Looks like a blt front end from years ago. They sold wide kits that included works front ends.
lift the sled up in the front and confirm your stearing is smooth and easy, not dry and stiff. Sometimes you can have a bent spindle that will bind in the tube causing drag on stearing.
Skis should be ballanced and shimmed to be even for dual runner or rear down for single carbides.
as far as the skid, it is adjusted in almost every way, just like a pro action. the only differnce is the location of the FRA is now within the rail and the slide gaps reverse effect and are not adjustable unless you remove and cut them.
Within reason, your front can be a couple inches up or down for ride height and the rear skid can be adjusted to it and handle great.
with a long travel sled, I would make sure on the shim of the ski, long traveling a sled and adding a taller skid really messes up the carbide pressure
Will be checking everything this summer.