ET340 -80 Several questions

Diversion

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Joined
Mar 3, 2009
Messages
69
Age
53
Location
sweden
Well a few days ago it ran. Now it suddenly bogs down when giving throttle from idle/standstill. It nearly stalls but goes however badly. If I give it half choke it runs fine, it's like it's getting fuel starved for some reason.

Also I bought a manual online but it seems like it's just some supplement/addendum. It's only 18 pages, mostly dimensions, measures and adjustment tolerances along with notes about what changed from the previous year. Is there not a "real" shop manual?

What about these suffixes? ET340D, ET340ED and I think I've seen a C on one page. In Sweden there were 3 back in the day. ET340 (short) ET340T (long) ET340T/R (long with reverse gear).

Also is my sled a -80? I ride bikes and sometimes it seems like the US and Euro models are different, like the model year is off by one year so what the US call -80 would be a -79 here. Not sure about that. Reason I ask is that I've seen pics on what claims to be a -80 from US and they don't look like mine.

Here's a pic of mine:1965565_1602684883280011_1927577828535694318_o.jpg
 

Thanks, will check. Anyone know about manuals? My R1 bike is a 2001 and there is no manual for it since it's the same as 2000 so you use that manual with a supplement that handles the minor changes. Is it the same with the ET, i.e. can I use a -78 manual with the supplement I bought? It seems there has never existed a manual for -79 and -80.
 
Sounds like the carb needs cleaning and the float level checked.

What is the VIN, then we can tell you what year it is?

The ET340D and ET340ED are 1980 models (the "D" on the end denotes the model year) "B" was 1978, "C" was 1979. The "E" stood for Electric start I believe.

Yours looks like it may be a 1981 ET340. It was likely built in 1980 as a 1981 model.

I do have paper manuals somewhere, what do you need to know?
 
check the crank seals. i bet one is bad as our 78 had bad seal on pto and it needed choke to get moving.
 
Sounds like the carb needs cleaning and the float level checked.

What is the VIN, then we can tell you what year it is?

The ET340D and ET340ED are 1980 models (the "D" on the end denotes the model year) "B" was 1978, "C" was 1979. The "E" stood for Electric start I believe.

Yours looks like it may be a 1981 ET340. It was likely built in 1980 as a 1981 model.

I do have paper manuals somewhere, what do you need to know?

It says 8H5-050104, I would know how to change the seals as Maim says below and the fuel pump assembly.
 
ah you are in Sweden, duh . . .

I am not sure but am guessing that they made that for an 1980 model for Europe. The serial number places it in that years build (1979). The 1980 North American models started at 8J6-025101 (ET340D) and 8J9-040101 (ET340ED). In any case it is either a '79 or an '80.

Let me see what I can for those pages . . .
 
I suppose you still have snow ? I had a thought about the muffler ,,,, any chance some varmint suddenly moved into your exhaust ?? they can not
blow out exhaust properly so they wont draw properly .... adding choke can make them run but not as good as you described ...
Crank seal on output side shouldn't affect the pump as much and give you a whiter spark plug ...lean ... Mag side usually has impulse hose and
a bad seal will also affect pump and burn white..
good luck
Ron
 
I suppose you still have snow ? I had a thought about the muffler ,,,, any chance some varmint suddenly moved into your exhaust ?? they can not
blow out exhaust properly so they wont draw properly .... adding choke can make them run but not as good as you described ...
Crank seal on output side shouldn't affect the pump as much and give you a whiter spark plug ...lean ... Mag side usually has impulse hose and
a bad seal will also affect pump and burn white..
good luck
Ron

We have plenty of snow, but it's been too cold up until a week ago to ride and enjoy it so it's been sitting in the garage in a cradle up until now. The plugs are not white as far as I can see, in fact it looks like it's been running a little on the rich side but I'm no expert on reading plugs.
 
pto side should run warmer as it gets the hot air from the Mag side added to it ... way back when ... people might run a colder plug on the hot side to
keep from burning a piston hole ..
Someone added this site the other day ..
http://www.vintagesnow.com/
Maybe your version of book is here ?
The rich could be from choking efforts ...
Ron
 
I can't seem to find my ET340D manual and ET340ED supplement. I have it somewhere around here.
 


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