nick5oh
Member
Labrador-Ronin
Member
Use a hack saw to cut one end off and tap out is what I'd do
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captnviper
Lifetime Member
Use a punch so you can drill dead center, step up size until most of the rivet is gone then punch out. If you cut off what's sticking out there is a taper to the hole that can still make it tuff to punch them out.
nick5oh
Member
Sounds good guys! Thanks! Can anyone I.D the rivets? They look nothing like what I've seen on this site
Youllbe2nd
New member
When you put the rivets in you need to mushroom the ends so they stay in the weight. That's why they look different than what you've seen on the site. The one there in the tip looks like an aluminum rivet that's been ground a bit. The mid rivet not too sure but looks like he used a vice to squish it in there judging by the jaw marks on it. You'll have to weigh the weights so we know the overall weight. Then some of these guys can guess what they are.
I just grind the heads off of them until there's a very thin layer of metal left and then punch them out. Carefully not to Nick it when grinding them.
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I just grind the heads off of them until there's a very thin layer of metal left and then punch them out. Carefully not to Nick it when grinding them.
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Youllbe2nd
New member
Actually the mid looks like an aluminum rivet too.
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musselman
Active member
Looks like a vice was used to press the one with the pattern on it and the other looks to be ground down a little on both sides. They look like 4.5g in the mid and 3.6g in the tip
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
holy the one looks like a nail. 3:16x (yammie tony)
BETHEVIPER
Life Member
yes, unless it is lead, that is a nail head. very cheap to make.
Youllbe2nd
New member
That's actually smart haha cheap and dirty I like it
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Ding
Darn Tootin'
If you want to know what weight they are. Pull the weight pin and little bolt and nut out and then weigh the weight arm with both rivets still intact. In fact weigh all three arms to check consistency. Grind only one off and punch it out, and weigh the weight arm again (the difference is the weight of that rivet). Then repeat the process for the second rivet. While the head of the rivet/nail looks suspicious the side view doesn't look like a nail. Very uniform and sharply define pattern though. If they are actually steel rivets it looks like a 17 and a 13.
Come on Guys,,,,,,,,,,, Gram scale,,, Button head bolt & Jam nuts,,,,,, so easy................
nick5oh
Member
52 grams total weight. Gonna be trashing these and starting from scratch with a stock setup. Then I may try a new helix and some new rivets and springs. Til next season
Ding
Darn Tootin'
So it seems you have a total added weight (both "rivets") of 12 grams roughly. I am guessing these are not real rivets, but something quite heavy. A 17.2 steel rivet is 4.5 grams.
nick5oh
Member
Like I stated before, gonna remove these rivets and go to stock rivets and springs. See where I'm at for speed and if I like the setup for trail rides and lake blasts.
Still undecided whether or not I want a setup like a 51/45 (ish) or a 48/42 (ish). I just know I want to go fast! Having a Back shift wouldn't hurt though. These sleds are pigs to slow down even with a 1.25" hacksaw and 96 studs.
Ideally I'd like to get another primary setup as I have a set of 89A-10 weights that I can use. It would be mint to have 2 primary's to use, 1 for trail and one for race, just a simple helix swap and go. long way away from next season so we have time!
ITS DRAG RACING SEASON!
Still undecided whether or not I want a setup like a 51/45 (ish) or a 48/42 (ish). I just know I want to go fast! Having a Back shift wouldn't hurt though. These sleds are pigs to slow down even with a 1.25" hacksaw and 96 studs.
Ideally I'd like to get another primary setup as I have a set of 89A-10 weights that I can use. It would be mint to have 2 primary's to use, 1 for trail and one for race, just a simple helix swap and go. long way away from next season so we have time!
ITS DRAG RACING SEASON!