daddy scored a deal on 2 mountain max sleds! stoked!

W

wolffo

Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2016
Messages
41
Location
Denver, Colorado
Yo Guys!

looking for input & opinions

my first sleds

I just picked up a 2002 MM 700 1,600 miles and a 2000 MM 600 with 2,600 miles and a 3 place drive off Sled Bed trailer all for $3,100
the sleds cleaned up very well and I'm happy with the entry price

both start on 2nd pull
compression on the 700 was 120 on all 3 cylinders
compression on the 600 was 109 on all 3 cylinders
the 700 has a temp light coming on at startup
Trailer needs 4 new tires
rear suspension is set to full "hard" (wonder if they did that to compensate for blown shocks?)

I want to ride bottomless powder, reality maybe be very different, I get it
I will be riding north of Steamboat, Colorado, an area known for 30 feet of snow annually

but now I'd like to refresh the sleds on a budget
here's my plan:
1) Clean them up - done
2) swap out all the fluids of course
3) Free mods to the airbox and exhaust cans (will this delay or advance the launch of the machine and will it lose torque?)
4) Camoplast powder skis for $185 a pair on ebay (6" or 8" carbides?)
5) straight plate style risers from denniskirk for $40 each (4" so I don't have to pay for new cables, are the pivot style worth spending another $60 each?)
6) the windshields are pretty tall (what size is everyone riding with, 8" ?)
7) The tracks have some dry rot and missing lugs (I'm looking for a "take-off" replacements, but might pay the man for some new ones)
8) love to find a used Boss seat....seems to be very rare

I work on my own trucks and dirtbikes as much as I can, I'm a solid intermediate single track dirtbike rider and I am not afraid to use a ratchet set either

Let me know what you guys think


Thanks,
Oliver
Denver, Colorado
 

wolffo said:
Yo Guys!

looking for input & opinions

my first sleds

I just picked up a 2002 MM 700 1,600 miles and a 2000 MM 600 with 2,600 miles and a 3 place drive off Sled Bed trailer all for $3,100
the sleds cleaned up very well and I'm happy with the entry price

both start on 2nd pull
compression on the 700 was 120 on all 3 cylinders
compression on the 600 was 109 on all 3 cylinders
the 700 has a temp light coming on at startup
Trailer needs 4 new tires
rear suspension is set to full "hard" (wonder if they did that to compensate for blown shocks?)

I want to ride bottomless powder, reality maybe be very different, I get it
I will be riding north of Steamboat, Colorado, an area known for 30 feet of snow annually

but now I'd like to refresh the sleds on a budget
here's my plan:
1) Clean them up - done
2) swap out all the fluids of course
3) Free mods to the airbox and exhaust cans (will this delay or advance the launch of the machine and will it lose torque?)
4) Camoplast powder skis for $185 a pair on ebay (6" or 8" carbides?)
5) straight plate style risers from denniskirk for $40 each (4" so I don't have to pay for new cables, are the pivot style worth spending another $60 each?)
6) the windshields are pretty tall (what size is everyone riding with, 8" ?)
7) The tracks have some dry rot and missing lugs (I'm looking for a "take-off" replacements, but might pay the man for some new ones)
8) love to find a used Boss seat....seems to be very rare

I work on my own trucks and dirtbikes as much as I can, I'm a solid intermediate single track dirtbike rider and I am not afraid to use a ratchet set either

Let me know what you guys think


Thanks,
Oliver
Denver, Colorado
Click to expand...

I don't think I'd mess with the air box, but you can drill out the mufflers for a better sound, some say that it does help with performance, some say it doesn't. Aftermarket cans reduce weight and sound good but don't help with performance.
 
I would think the same
my experience with trucks and dirtbikes is that aftermarket intakes and exhaust mods take away torque but allow you to run faster top speed at a lower RPM range only
and maybe increase your fuel efficiency
 
You could do the reed stopper notch, that will help with throttle response and it's free. I would also replace the reed stoppers with the updated stainless ones, the old galvanized stoppers are know to crack. Mine were cracked really bad, almost sucked one into the engine. :/
 
I'm not into deep snow riding so I can't help with skis, but I do have a riser set up that I'd sell. it's a powermad 6" riser with pivot, I also have a the extended braided stainless brake hose, I don't have the extended throttle cable but I can get the throttle cable extensions.
 
Welcome to the forums and the world of snowmobiling(Gotta love the REDHEAD triples).Already see you got bitten by the mod bug:yam:.
 
Dont think the tracks are dry rotted, there was an issue with those 141 yoko's cracking at the base and the funny part is they seem to run forever that way. If you do anything trackwise, go longer!

For skis, if your going to be a serious mountain rider, save up for some slp powder pros, dont waste your money on the camoplast. Do the cut out on the slp's and your in business. Ask me how. Again, on the mountain rider theory, skip the carbides and go with hard bars. You dont need to waste money on carbides if your riding powder.

You will be ahead with both the air box mod and the silencer bore, but you need to up the pilot jets 1 or 2 sizes if you drill the box. Do spacers, not the reed cage notch. The oem cages wont hold up with the notches, period.

You can search hard for a boss seat, but its quicker and easier(and cheaper) to modify the oem with any capable upholstery expert. Many options to go with there like if you want to raise it, lower it, storage it, etc.

I went back to a taller windshield, but thats more a personal preference in my opinion. You can make the high shields look cool with a bit of paint. If your deep snow riding, you will benefit from the taller shield.

I am a firm believer in the pivot risers, you have many more options as to positioning but dont think for a minute that 4" risers will be okay with the stock cabling. With some re-routing you may get away with it, but be prepared to use some other oem cabling if you want things to correctly work.

The temp light flashing on startup should be a sign of the self diagnosis functioning operating correctly. I would wonder why the 6 doesnt do it. Bulb check would be first. If the temp light continues to flash, those sleds were notorious for the wiring plug going bad on the temp sensor plug. Something to look at.

In stock format, those sleds dont really fare well in bottomless powder, but can be adjusted to do better, along with rider ability. From there its longer and different skids, but you have a great platform to start with.
 
I'm not afraid to re-jet

who sells a reed spacer or do I make it?

hard bars! thanks

so cabling thru the air box wont work with 4" riser block?

with a non pivot riser can I still rotate the handle bars up/vertical? or does that kill the cables even more?
 
I read that the clutch engages at 4,800 rpm

if I do the air box and exhaust mods

does the engagement stay the sake at 4,800 rpm?

but throttle response gets me there quicker? engine spools up faster?
 
snowdad4 said:
Dont think the tracks are dry rotted, there was an issue with those 141 yoko's cracking at the base and the funny part is they seem to run forever that way. If you do anything trackwise, go longer!

For skis, if your going to be a serious mountain rider, save up for some slp powder pros, dont waste your money on the camoplast. Do the cut out on the slp's and your in business. Ask me how. Again, on the mountain rider theory, skip the carbides and go with hard bars. You dont need to waste money on carbides if your riding powder.

You will be ahead with both the air box mod and the silencer bore, but you need to up the pilot jets 1 or 2 sizes if you drill the box. Do spacers, not the reed cage notch. The oem cages wont hold up with the notches, period.

You can search hard for a boss seat, but its quicker and easier(and cheaper) to modify the oem with any capable upholstery expert. Many options to go with there like if you want to raise it, lower it, storage it, etc.

I went back to a taller windshield, but thats more a personal preference in my opinion. You can make the high shields look cool with a bit of paint. If your deep snow riding, you will benefit from the taller shield.

I am a firm believer in the pivot risers, you have many more options as to positioning but dont think for a minute that 4" risers will be okay with the stock cabling. With some re-routing you may get away with it, but be prepared to use some other oem cabling if you want things to correctly work.

The temp light flashing on startup should be a sign of the self diagnosis functioning operating correctly. I would wonder why the 6 doesnt do it. Bulb check would be first. If the temp light continues to flash, those sleds were notorious for the wiring plug going bad on the temp sensor plug. Something to look at.

In stock format, those sleds dont really fare well in bottomless powder, but can be adjusted to do better, along with rider ability. From there its longer and different skids, but you have a great platform to start with.
Click to expand...

I notched my stoppers 7 years ago, still holding up just fine. The original galvanized stoppers may not hold up but the stainless ones are much stronger.
 
For the spacers I would call Fix Power Sports, 507 775 7242, last place I found them. Bender had them and you could roll the dice that direction but thats a crap shoot in itself. Try the want ads here, but they can be hard to find used.

Over the air box and re-routing off the steering stem will gain you more cabling than going through or around. 4" is the borderline, but I always went with longer cables to be on the safe side. Think about a tether if you dont want to rely on the tors.

Pivoting risers vs straight risers may boil down to a personal preference, but you have more options with the pivots. Straight riser blocks follow the angle of the steering head and your limited to the angle you can get by pivoting the bars, as well as moving the cabling and wiring further away from where it was supposed to be. With pivot risers, you can both alter the bar angle and the steering head angle. Essentially twice the options to find your sweet spot. Base that on both experience and preference. I would never run a straight riser block over 1" on anything with handle bar controls.

I always thought the mtn sleds in stock format engaged too high. Out here we call it the yamahump. Near 5k engagement makes the track dig before hooking, creating a mogul of snow behind the sled. Even worse with the stock skid. With a few modifications in the primary spring department or going full out with a heel clicker set up you can bring the engagement down to a more controllable level, like under 4k. You want a tractor, not a dragster.

With the airbox and/or silencer mod, your only effectively increasing air flow to clean up the low end to just below midrange stumble that seemed to plague the redheads. You wont affect engagement nor will you need to re-clutch for these mods. You will have to up your pilot jet size to capitalize on the air flow and reduce the chance of lean bog off the trigger.
 
shaggyzr2 said:
I notched my stoppers 7 years ago, still holding up just fine. The original galvanized stoppers may not hold up but the stainless ones are much stronger.
Click to expand...

And most likely you were very meticulous in you markings, measuring, and cuttings. Kudos for you in that respect. Like yourself, I have many miles on my own notched cages over several sleds without issue. But, what I end up with in my part time shop is too many diy'ers and broken parts to fix due mostly to lack of tooling or an eye for detail with an attitude like: "Yep, saw that on the innerweb and I can easily do that with a few files, a sawsall, couple of hacksaw blades and a worn out sharpie pen".

Cheaper for most in the short run to take the easy way in.
 
I have an 02 mm. I second the thought of no carbides. I got them with my powder pros and have wished ever since for just wear bars. Too hard to load and unload on my wood deck trailers. I'm running around 4" of rise on a forward angled riser. It's fairly comfortable for me.
If you have to many broken parts or blown shocks in the skid definitely think of swapping a lighter one in from something else, that's my best mod so far. I have a 162 from a 2010m 1000. Lots lighter and she climbs!


Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 
BTW my airbox came drilled and I have triple pipes also. Gotta love the redhead.

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excellent
thanks guys!

my buddy and I got into the 600 Friday night, greased everything, did the chain case oil and coolant, fresh gas and fresh pre-mix, we had 2 inches of snow in the grass and puttered around a bit ; - )

will mountain viper triple pipes fit under the hood of the mountain max?
 
will the crank and crank case of the 700 hold up to higher compression pistons and/or shaving the head?
what about boring out the cylinders?
 
I ran a piped/ported mm 700 package for years here in mn without any issues. Drug it out west a few times too. Was a solid sled. I never did the overbore as my motor was sound and the cost of having the cylinders renic'd was too cost prohibative for me to mess with. The redhead motor is pretty bulletproof so you should be fine
 
You have plenty of power in both those machines. That 6 will surprise you with its ability.

If it were me, I would put my money towards tracks and skids and let the engines live in stock format.
 
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