kunomofo
Member
6600 miles on my 02 viper just had top end rebuilt about 800 miles ago.
Coolant I noticed looked sludgey after the meltdown of a cylinder at the time top end was done. Not sure
why my mechanic did not flush it but anyways it is what it is.
When we have gone out the coolant light will come on - its running fine and not overheating.
We stop let it sit for a bit then start it up and light is gone. Go for a while and then the engine
light came on - still running fine - no overheating. We stop let it rest - seems to go away (have done
this only two times) then we headed back.
My plan is to drain that coolant and add fresh (5 degrees here so not in a rush at the moment!).
But wondering why coolant light would come on when she is not overheating - and of course how the
engine light could be related- again running fine. Seems intermittent.
Thank you!
Coolant I noticed looked sludgey after the meltdown of a cylinder at the time top end was done. Not sure
why my mechanic did not flush it but anyways it is what it is.
When we have gone out the coolant light will come on - its running fine and not overheating.
We stop let it sit for a bit then start it up and light is gone. Go for a while and then the engine
light came on - still running fine - no overheating. We stop let it rest - seems to go away (have done
this only two times) then we headed back.
My plan is to drain that coolant and add fresh (5 degrees here so not in a rush at the moment!).
But wondering why coolant light would come on when she is not overheating - and of course how the
engine light could be related- again running fine. Seems intermittent.
Thank you!
brethren
New member
Be careful I just lost a cylinder this way. Could be air lock in the cooling system, or head gasket leaking (could also explain the sludge in the bottle).
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kunomofo
Member
Thanks - how do I deal with an air lock in cooling system? I do plan to flush it and refill.
The sludge issue was from first meltdown - so that has been there for a while. So I am confident it is not the seal (well fairly).
The sludge issue was from first meltdown - so that has been there for a while. So I am confident it is not the seal (well fairly).
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
does the viper have a rear heat exchanger in it from a srx or still have the stock cooling tube?
To get the air out you need to raise the back of the sled way up and remove the bleed screw and let the air get out of the system. keep adding some coolant till all the air bubbles come out bleeder hole. you have to remove seat and youll see bleeder screw on back of tunnel
To get the air out you need to raise the back of the sled way up and remove the bleed screw and let the air get out of the system. keep adding some coolant till all the air bubbles come out bleeder hole. you have to remove seat and youll see bleeder screw on back of tunnel
kunomofo
Member
I did upgrade it to the SRX heat exchanger yes. I also want to flush it out though - would that do the same thing or?
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
if you want to flush it out youll need to rig up a filler tee where the thermostat housing is, undo the hoses from it and put in a flush tee, hook up a hose and flush it all out. The biggest thing you have to watch out for is to get enough water back out of it to get antifreeze back in. You will likely need to undo the lower water pump hose from engine to drain enough water back out after flushing it, raise th back of sled up to help drain it at waterpump hose.
Then to refill with 50/50 water antifreeze mix, I usually go for a "easy bleed" method, I put the front of the sled about a foot or so off the ground by placing a jack under the front, then with the radiator cap off start it up and slowly pour in the coolant mixture, letting the bubbles escape thru the filler hole, with the front up it pushes all the air to the front of sled and out the fill hole. You will know you got it all out by going around and placing your hand on heat exchangers, all 3 of the running board and rear exchanger should be nice and warm. remove off jack and top off to full level mark place rad cap back on, go ride.
Then to refill with 50/50 water antifreeze mix, I usually go for a "easy bleed" method, I put the front of the sled about a foot or so off the ground by placing a jack under the front, then with the radiator cap off start it up and slowly pour in the coolant mixture, letting the bubbles escape thru the filler hole, with the front up it pushes all the air to the front of sled and out the fill hole. You will know you got it all out by going around and placing your hand on heat exchangers, all 3 of the running board and rear exchanger should be nice and warm. remove off jack and top off to full level mark place rad cap back on, go ride.
kunomofo
Member
if you want to flush it out youll need to rig up a filler tee where the thermostat housing is, undo the hoses from it and put in a flush tee, hook up a hose and flush it all out. The biggest thing you have to watch out for is to get enough water back out of it to get antifreeze back in. You will likely need to undo the lower water pump hose from engine to drain enough water back out after flushing it, raise th back of sled up to help drain it at waterpump hose.
Then to refill with 50/50 water antifreeze mix, I usually go for a "easy bleed" method, I put the front of the sled about a foot or so off the ground by placing a jack under the front, then with the radiator cap off start it up and slowly pour in the coolant mixture, letting the bubbles escape thru the filler hole, with the front up it pushes all the air to the front of sled and out the fill hole. You will know you got it all out by going around and placing your hand on heat exchangers, all 3 of the running board and rear exchanger should be nice and warm. remove off jack and top off to full level mark place rad cap back on, go ride.
well dang......I will get to this then! I am no mechanic so should be interesting.....hey I did not know the antifreeze was 50 water 50 antiF? I would have gone all antifreeze (like I said I am no mechanic).
brethren
New member
There are 2 types, pre mix and concentrate. The pre mix is used straight, where as the concentrate is usually mixed 50/50 with distilled water. It is important to use distilled water, as tap water will leave mineral deposits in the coolant system.
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barry
New member
a word of caution on the antifreeze as others said add it at a 50/50 mix.if it is premixed it will state somewhere on label if premixed do not dilute use straight form jug.believe it or not you do not want to use pure af it will turn to slush and not flow through system.also the sludge could be from a possible additive such as stop leak that may have been added at time of head replacement when piston work done.this is my guess without seeing it.mrviper gave you a good idea of whats involved in bleeding system.do not drive until you bleed as you do not want to redo engine do you?
kunomofo
Member
a word of caution on the antifreeze as others said add it at a 50/50 mix.if it is premixed it will state somewhere on label if premixed do not dilute use straight form jug.believe it or not you do not want to use pure af it will turn to slush and not flow through system.also the sludge could be from a possible additive such as stop leak that may have been added at time of head replacement when piston work done.this is my guess without seeing it.mrviper gave you a good idea of whats involved in bleeding system.do not drive until you bleed as you do not want to redo engine do you?
THIS may be why what is in there now is slushy! OK here is an odd one - my SRX - had a headbolt pop out that was not tightened (I shut down immediatly) BUT all the coolant blew out. I reset the bolt - and just added antifreeze - filled it right up - no bleeding etc - just added it until it was full - runs fine no issues - not sure if it was 50-50 or not - but I will check now.