Tim
New member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2003
- Messages
- 5
Hey Gang
I recently bought a 01 SXR 700 and the P/O really screwed with the stock suspension....I have been reading thru the archives and am not finding the answers I need. I would really like to take the rear suspension back to a baseline setting for me for the rought stuff along with improving the tracks ablility to hookup in the snow.
Heres the stats.... 700 with simmons triple pipes, vforce reeds, jetting and 96 picks on the stock track .92( i already know it doesn't have enough picks for the power, I will be adding more up to 144)
I weight 270 and ride a mix of trails and the powder.
I intend on buying adjustable transfer rods to improve some of the spin
I really need to know where the shocks need to be set for my weight and riding style....The p/o has the front shock almost fully stiff with the rear mid way up the threaded body. (rear suspension)
Is it easiest to remove the shocks to adjust them...its very tight in there with any kinda tools?
Thanks for the help in advance
I recently bought a 01 SXR 700 and the P/O really screwed with the stock suspension....I have been reading thru the archives and am not finding the answers I need. I would really like to take the rear suspension back to a baseline setting for me for the rought stuff along with improving the tracks ablility to hookup in the snow.
Heres the stats.... 700 with simmons triple pipes, vforce reeds, jetting and 96 picks on the stock track .92( i already know it doesn't have enough picks for the power, I will be adding more up to 144)
I weight 270 and ride a mix of trails and the powder.
I intend on buying adjustable transfer rods to improve some of the spin
I really need to know where the shocks need to be set for my weight and riding style....The p/o has the front shock almost fully stiff with the rear mid way up the threaded body. (rear suspension)
Is it easiest to remove the shocks to adjust them...its very tight in there with any kinda tools?
Thanks for the help in advance
vmaxjohn
New member
The best way to set up the proaction skid is to lay across the seat, and have a look at your control rod gaps.
You're looking for a 50/50 rod gap, top and bottom. This means your couple timing will be fairly neutral. If you have no top gap, this means you need more preload. It also means no hook up, as the sled won't rock back nearly as well.
See where your rod gaps are, and post back. There's a whole bunch of TYers with the help ya need.
You're looking for a 50/50 rod gap, top and bottom. This means your couple timing will be fairly neutral. If you have no top gap, this means you need more preload. It also means no hook up, as the sled won't rock back nearly as well.
See where your rod gaps are, and post back. There's a whole bunch of TYers with the help ya need.
Tim
New member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2003
- Messages
- 5
Rod end gaps are all the way to the bottom....top metal washer is sitting on plastic washer...I'm assuming thats a problem???
What do I do from here??
Tim [/img]
What do I do from here??
Tim [/img]
AtlasFBG2
New member
Not enough preload on the rear shock is causing your top gap to be low.You can adjust the shocks in the sled.Use a screwdriver and tap with a hammer to knock the lock ring loose.Then you can grab ahold of the spring and turn it by hand to change the preload.Then tap the lock ring to get it tight again.
The spring specs are center shock 3.02 softest,3.81 hardest,3.42 would be middle.
The rear spring 2.37 softest,3.16 hardest,2.77 would be middle.
The ski shocks are 4.61 softest,5.39 hardest,5 would be middle.
Those measurements are from the center of the mounting bolt to the top of the spring.
The spring specs are center shock 3.02 softest,3.81 hardest,3.42 would be middle.
The rear spring 2.37 softest,3.16 hardest,2.77 would be middle.
The ski shocks are 4.61 softest,5.39 hardest,5 would be middle.
Those measurements are from the center of the mounting bolt to the top of the spring.
Tim
New member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2003
- Messages
- 5
I was able to take a few measurements...center spring overall lenth is 8 inches(203.20mm) or 3.5inches from center of bolt to bottom of spring,rear spring overall length is 13.81 inches(350.77mm) or 3.875 center of bolt to bottom of spring
limiter straps measure 1inch(exposed on top including top nut). The full rate adjuster is inthe C or hard position.
According to the charts this is adjusted fully stiff What gives?????
AAGHHHHHH im really frustrated!!!!!!
limiter straps measure 1inch(exposed on top including top nut). The full rate adjuster is inthe C or hard position.
According to the charts this is adjusted fully stiff What gives?????
AAGHHHHHH im really frustrated!!!!!!
AtlasFBG2
New member
Can you see a color strip on the spring?Maybe he changed the rear sprng to a softer one.
vmaxjohn
New member
From what Atlas posted, you've got more tuning room there.
Set both springs to the max spec and see what happens. Traction rods, when used to wheelie, can lead to broken parts over rough trails. Got to be carefull with them.
My guess is that someone actually set the skid up for their weight, and you weigh considerably more. No biggy, you should be able to tune it for what you want. Good luck!
Set both springs to the max spec and see what happens. Traction rods, when used to wheelie, can lead to broken parts over rough trails. Got to be carefull with them.
My guess is that someone actually set the skid up for their weight, and you weigh considerably more. No biggy, you should be able to tune it for what you want. Good luck!
Tim
New member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2003
- Messages
- 5
was able to get a 50/50 space by turning up the preload on the rear spring.....its beyond what the factory specs are though....will that cause me any negative effects?????
MountainMax
New member
it should't hurt anything, now if a lighter driver was on it they would find it rides very hard.. as long as it's set up for the weight of the driver it's ok.