'99 Venture 700 elec start & reverse
I did a 125km ride today and fought the clutch all day long, never worked right from the start, burned double the fuel with ease, maybe more. I'm a little frustrated because I just rebuilt the clutch a couple weeks ago and on the first ride after the rebuild, I had amazing results. I modified the weights and got a fantastic result in drivability and fuel economy savings of 20-25%. WOT rpms 8500.
Here is my original post about the clutch before rebuilding:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...ary-Clutch-NIGHTMARE-Advice-Please-amp-Thanks
Since that one and only run, I had replaced the inner sheave in order to reinstall the ring gear and get the electric start functioning again. The ring gear had let loose on the previous owner and he messed up the replacement so badly that he ruined all the threads on the inner sheave and cracked through the bottom of all the holes because he didn't chip out the solidified loctite. Also, the ring gear was lose for long enough that it deformed the outer edge of the sheave where they seat together, so I was doubtful that it wouldn't just work itself lose again. I ordered the new OEM sheave and 6 new screws and loctited them all in and let it cure for 3 days. No more ring gear issues (I hope).
So primary & secondary have both been rebuilt. The belt is within spec and was the same belt from the previous successful drive. I also swapped belts halfway through the trip and it made no difference. I checked belt temp, clutch temp during the ride with my son's '00 Vmax 600 and didn't feel anything out of the norm.
You can see by the picture (ignore the dirt, we had just pressure washed the trailer grime) that the primary is not engaging all the way whereas before I replaced the inner sheave and was still running the old one, but with ring gear removed, it worked amazingly. The surfaces both have the same finish, which is quite smooth. When I rebuilt the clutch I used a right angle air die grinder with a 2" scotch bright pad to clean the surfaces, and again, it worked flawlessly. All that has changed is the new inner sheave. When I remove the belt, I can depress the clutch just fine, nothing is binding and the bushings are new. I just can't believe that with the performance I had on the previous ride with the new heavy flyweights (49.25 grams) the clutch now doesn't want to fully close.
Today is just felt like it was slipping all day, but the belt wasn't burning up. I felt like I could finally get some normal function out of the clutches every now and then at higher speeds/revs, but the trails wouldn't allow much past 80 kph. I would finally switch between WOT and feathering to get a solid lock up, but once I cut the throttle back it would just fade away and ultimately the motor would be over revving while cruising at 40-50 kph and burned through fuel like nobody's business.
Am I missing something simple here? Not afraid to ask a stupid question...
View attachment 62589
I did a 125km ride today and fought the clutch all day long, never worked right from the start, burned double the fuel with ease, maybe more. I'm a little frustrated because I just rebuilt the clutch a couple weeks ago and on the first ride after the rebuild, I had amazing results. I modified the weights and got a fantastic result in drivability and fuel economy savings of 20-25%. WOT rpms 8500.
Here is my original post about the clutch before rebuilding:
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...ary-Clutch-NIGHTMARE-Advice-Please-amp-Thanks
Since that one and only run, I had replaced the inner sheave in order to reinstall the ring gear and get the electric start functioning again. The ring gear had let loose on the previous owner and he messed up the replacement so badly that he ruined all the threads on the inner sheave and cracked through the bottom of all the holes because he didn't chip out the solidified loctite. Also, the ring gear was lose for long enough that it deformed the outer edge of the sheave where they seat together, so I was doubtful that it wouldn't just work itself lose again. I ordered the new OEM sheave and 6 new screws and loctited them all in and let it cure for 3 days. No more ring gear issues (I hope).
So primary & secondary have both been rebuilt. The belt is within spec and was the same belt from the previous successful drive. I also swapped belts halfway through the trip and it made no difference. I checked belt temp, clutch temp during the ride with my son's '00 Vmax 600 and didn't feel anything out of the norm.
You can see by the picture (ignore the dirt, we had just pressure washed the trailer grime) that the primary is not engaging all the way whereas before I replaced the inner sheave and was still running the old one, but with ring gear removed, it worked amazingly. The surfaces both have the same finish, which is quite smooth. When I rebuilt the clutch I used a right angle air die grinder with a 2" scotch bright pad to clean the surfaces, and again, it worked flawlessly. All that has changed is the new inner sheave. When I remove the belt, I can depress the clutch just fine, nothing is binding and the bushings are new. I just can't believe that with the performance I had on the previous ride with the new heavy flyweights (49.25 grams) the clutch now doesn't want to fully close.
Today is just felt like it was slipping all day, but the belt wasn't burning up. I felt like I could finally get some normal function out of the clutches every now and then at higher speeds/revs, but the trails wouldn't allow much past 80 kph. I would finally switch between WOT and feathering to get a solid lock up, but once I cut the throttle back it would just fade away and ultimately the motor would be over revving while cruising at 40-50 kph and burned through fuel like nobody's business.
Am I missing something simple here? Not afraid to ask a stupid question...
View attachment 62589
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drew24
New member
It looks like a dark ring where the belt was going the highest. Almost like the primary is trying to pull the belt in the secondary but cant. It says in the other thread you have a green dot secondary spring at 6+1. Are you sure it didn't get put at 9+1? Easy to mix the 6 and 9 up. Not sure if that would be enough to cause that or not. I did it once on my srx but I didn't notice anything until I pulled it apart again and noticed. Does the track move freely if you put it on a stand?
Thanks for your response.
The track rotates as free as a bird
It's in the 6 position for sure.
None of the settings were adjusted since the last ride.
Hopefully a few more responses and I can get to the bottom of this. Thanks again.
The track rotates as free as a bird
It's in the 6 position for sure.
None of the settings were adjusted since the last ride.
Hopefully a few more responses and I can get to the bottom of this. Thanks again.
I've got the primary removed now. It will definitely fully compress. All the flyweights and rollers are fine. The belt measures 1.31-1.32 so it's still within spec. The old sheave had 8CR01 cast into the back side and the new one says 8CR02. Would it by chance be a different profile or is that just a second generation part number or casting number?
I put the sled up on jacks and ran the machine and the clutch is functioning fine. This just gets more interesting. I was expecting to see something wrong.
Today's conditions were a few degrees above zero and lots of slimy lose snow on the trail. Lots of darting and a real upper body battle all day. Do you think the conditions were a factor? Perhaps snow building up in the tunnel and causing drag? To me it felt more like a clutch issue, but the unit was 'engine braking' so to speak, a little more than normal. Hmmm
Today's conditions were a few degrees above zero and lots of slimy lose snow on the trail. Lots of darting and a real upper body battle all day. Do you think the conditions were a factor? Perhaps snow building up in the tunnel and causing drag? To me it felt more like a clutch issue, but the unit was 'engine braking' so to speak, a little more than normal. Hmmm
Check behind your secondary to see that the rear bushing hasn't worked out. I have had them do this and keep the secondary from opening.
For the primary to close the secondary must open of course. The length of the belt controls this.
For the primary to close the secondary must open of course. The length of the belt controls this.
The bushing has not worked its way out.
The machine is functioning on the jack stand just fine. All we have is ice here, but I took it out for a quick rip and it seems to be working fine. So no I think this wet heavy slimy gory snow might have been loading up the tunnel and causing drag. Does that sound plausible?
The machine is functioning on the jack stand just fine. All we have is ice here, but I took it out for a quick rip and it seems to be working fine. So no I think this wet heavy slimy gory snow might have been loading up the tunnel and causing drag. Does that sound plausible?
Check your drive train to make sure there isn't something amiss there. See how easy you can rotate the track by hand in both directions (elevated and safely supported). On a lower HP sled I would buy the heavy snow, but that 700 should have enough power to shift through it. However, if there is already extra drag and then you add poor snow it could happen.
Track rotates butter smooth. Definitely not a mechanical drag issue there.
The machine was able to behave properly st higher speeds. Makes me wonder if it was loading up the tunnel with heavy wet snow at low speeds and once I was able to open up the throttle and get moving it would clear itself out.
Next weekend it cools back down below zero and I'll have my answer.
The machine was able to behave properly st higher speeds. Makes me wonder if it was loading up the tunnel with heavy wet snow at low speeds and once I was able to open up the throttle and get moving it would clear itself out.
Next weekend it cools back down below zero and I'll have my answer.
waterfowlah
New member
49.25grams seems light? are you sure that's correct? I was thinking 57 grams for that machine?
What primary spring are you using?
What primary spring are you using?
Vincent
New member
I have a 2000 Venture 700, in my case I had to add 3g per tip on each stock weight for a total of 49.5 grams to get my Revs down to the ideal 8300-8500 rpms. My clutchs function well.
Pitty you don't live near to me happyhab i would lend you my primary clutch to try out and help trouble shoot.
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