Sorry for the typo TOP GEAR
Gearing down a 1996 vmax xt pro action 600??
I would like to know if its worth it
I want ro keep the stock chain and bottom gear if thats possible.
I have brand new chain case and all internals
Any body know a part number for the top gear ?
How many does it have stock?
Howmany can i go down without changing the chain.
Can i just simply change the top gear and notice improvements on take off
My sled already lacks a bit of launch
But it has a hell of mid and top
I belive this is a very common problem with all these vmax 600s.
I would like to thank everyone that helped me with my belt problem it is not squealing any more
Just keep buying belts until one worked
Gearing down a 1996 vmax xt pro action 600??
I would like to know if its worth it
I want ro keep the stock chain and bottom gear if thats possible.
I have brand new chain case and all internals
Any body know a part number for the top gear ?
How many does it have stock?
Howmany can i go down without changing the chain.
Can i just simply change the top gear and notice improvements on take off
My sled already lacks a bit of launch
But it has a hell of mid and top
I belive this is a very common problem with all these vmax 600s.
I would like to thank everyone that helped me with my belt problem it is not squealing any more
Just keep buying belts until one worked
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Stock is 37/21.
Here is mine.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php/97649-96-XT6-to-144
Dropping to a 20t and replace the stock 1996 XT6 head gasket w/ a 1995 head gasket. You'll have a completely different sled. You have 9 tooth drivers. Required chain is beside the ratio in the picture.
Head gasket thickness by year.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...vmax-600?highlight=Head+gasket+thickness+year
Here is mine.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php/97649-96-XT6-to-144
Dropping to a 20t and replace the stock 1996 XT6 head gasket w/ a 1995 head gasket. You'll have a completely different sled. You have 9 tooth drivers. Required chain is beside the ratio in the picture.
Head gasket thickness by year.
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/...vmax-600?highlight=Head+gasket+thickness+year
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Looks good
With the head gasket change can i just peel off a layer?
Should i order a new one for a 95?
Is thete anything else i must change to match the increase in compression?
I ride with a guy that used to have a 96 vmax 600. He said he had a 19 tooth on the top
Claims it was a very huge improvement on bottom end and mid lost a little top end but nothing to serious as he was strictly riding groomed trails as do I.
So hows the 20 tooth?
Is it very noticeable?
And would i notice a difference without a thinner head gasket if i only chang the gear?
Thanks for all your help
My belt/ clutch issue is solved runs great now no squealing and got back my bottom end.
With the head gasket change can i just peel off a layer?
Should i order a new one for a 95?
Is thete anything else i must change to match the increase in compression?
I ride with a guy that used to have a 96 vmax 600. He said he had a 19 tooth on the top
Claims it was a very huge improvement on bottom end and mid lost a little top end but nothing to serious as he was strictly riding groomed trails as do I.
So hows the 20 tooth?
Is it very noticeable?
And would i notice a difference without a thinner head gasket if i only chang the gear?
Thanks for all your help
My belt/ clutch issue is solved runs great now no squealing and got back my bottom end.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
The head gasket in 96 was ULTRA conservative. Just changing/peeling that will net huge results. A 19t will be fine providing you can put all that torque to the ground .... i.e. Good track, not stock.
My final ratio is 1.99:1
I have a new 1.5 144 Camo Crossover though. I almost need Velcro to stay on it.
My final ratio is 1.99:1
I have a new 1.5 144 Camo Crossover though. I almost need Velcro to stay on it.
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I dohave a a stock track
Can i just add studs?
I curently have none
Do i have to extend the track
If i only go down 1 will just studs be fine if its not for a 19 gear?
I will be working on this all spring and summer.
Im hoping i can do this on a minimum budget
I have other sleds and im very big into dirt bikes . this project absolutely cant take away from my second favorite hobbie
I spend every waking moment i can on the trails snow or not.
Will $500.00 -$750.00 be enough to make a big enough difference to notice?
Can i just add studs?
I curently have none
Do i have to extend the track
If i only go down 1 will just studs be fine if its not for a 19 gear?
I will be working on this all spring and summer.
Im hoping i can do this on a minimum budget
I have other sleds and im very big into dirt bikes . this project absolutely cant take away from my second favorite hobbie
I spend every waking moment i can on the trails snow or not.
Will $500.00 -$750.00 be enough to make a big enough difference to notice?
If upto $750 is good
Any part number for what i need?
Any part number for what i need?
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
There is not sh!t for room up by the front heat exchanger. I had to go to 8 tooth drivers just to get my 1.5 in there. And even then I had to trim the track 1/4" just where it contacted the tunnel heat exchangers.
I don't even think a 1" track w/ studs would be safe for the front h/e.
Stock track w/ studs should be fine w/ a 19 or 20 toother. I'd probably get the Bender backers w/ your choice of studs. Those are the ones that are slightly bent on one end that lay up on the lug.
I don't even think a 1" track w/ studs would be safe for the front h/e.
Stock track w/ studs should be fine w/ a 19 or 20 toother. I'd probably get the Bender backers w/ your choice of studs. Those are the ones that are slightly bent on one end that lay up on the lug.
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Just food for thought. I had my skid shocks rebuilt, revalved and re-spring for my weight. That thing feels like a Barcolounger now. Less headache and probably less money than finding a M-10 or whatever.
Just contacted a local Yamaha specialist I just made plans to have all the suspension rebuilt front included.
Thanks for all your help
Thanks for all your help
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Run doubles for nil or zero pull outs.
One side of your lug is angled... right.
One side of your lug is angled... right.
Thanks for the pic
Is there a pattern that works better than others?
Yeah one side is angled.
My track looks New soif not changing it is ok that's great.
How many studs is better
I do like a bit of control over the rear end.
I had a skidoo that had so many studs i could not manipulate it in any way but it sure did stay glued to the trail. Almost to much comming out of a corner it would push the front.
I would like to avoid this for sure
Is there a pattern that works better than others?
Yeah one side is angled.
My track looks New soif not changing it is ok that's great.
How many studs is better
I do like a bit of control over the rear end.
I had a skidoo that had so many studs i could not manipulate it in any way but it sure did stay glued to the trail. Almost to much comming out of a corner it would push the front.
I would like to avoid this for sure
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
How much do you weight w/ gear?
You could stick w/ stock skis but install Bergstrom Triple point carbides to minimize the "push" through the corners. They are pricey but worth every penny.
http://www.bergstromskegs.com
As far as a pattern goes, a standard V pattern would be fine. However, on your subsequent Vs after your first, slightly offset the pattern from your first. This will insure that all studs cut they're own trench and none will be inline w/ each other.
You could stick w/ stock skis but install Bergstrom Triple point carbides to minimize the "push" through the corners. They are pricey but worth every penny.
http://www.bergstromskegs.com
As far as a pattern goes, a standard V pattern would be fine. However, on your subsequent Vs after your first, slightly offset the pattern from your first. This will insure that all studs cut they're own trench and none will be inline w/ each other.
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Maybe 215lbs fully geared up.
I will sure take your advice
But how many studs?
Just got back from a ride tepms like 38 40
Sled runs great at thoes temps
Surprisingly trails in luzerne and mio michigan are pretty good after a day in the 50s
Off the trails in the boondocks its like 7-13 inches hipfuly i can get one more night befor i pull out thr raptor and YZ.
I will sure take your advice
But how many studs?
Just got back from a ride tepms like 38 40
Sled runs great at thoes temps
Surprisingly trails in luzerne and mio michigan are pretty good after a day in the 50s
Off the trails in the boondocks its like 7-13 inches hipfuly i can get one more night befor i pull out thr raptor and YZ.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
96 for your weight. Me being 300#, I would opt for 144 because I have more @ss to push those studs in. But you do not so 96 will be dandy.