Hi All,
First time going grass dragging!!
Can I just remove my thermostat or do I need to modify it to stay open and leave it in? Some of my Cat friends gut there's and leave them in.
Thanks
Derek
First time going grass dragging!!
Can I just remove my thermostat or do I need to modify it to stay open and leave it in? Some of my Cat friends gut there's and leave them in.
Thanks
Derek
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
remove it and be done. but put gasket/ round seal back in 3:16x (yammie tony)
remove it and be done. but put gasket/ round seal back in 3:16x (yammie tony)
Thanks Yammie Tony!
on another note when I run on the ice in the winter can I put the thermostat back in before using my cart to put antifreeze back in the system or do I have to put the antifreeze back in first then make a mess putting the thermostat in? I hope that makes sense!
Thanks
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
no. pump your system for winter season without it. than when your set. you can add it back. might be alittle messy, but than start sled up and add to reservoir what ya lost. be good to go. 3:16x (yammie tony)
Mac
Member
You forgot to tell him to..... block the bypass.
---mac---
---mac---
Thanks Guys!
Where is the bypass? Sorry for my ignorance! Don't want to do this twice.
Thanks again
Derek
Where is the bypass? Sorry for my ignorance! Don't want to do this twice.
Thanks again
Derek
Mac
Member
Hi Derek,
Your thermostat housing has three hoses. The hose from the head has the hot coolant. The other two hoses distribute coolant to either one of the two loops depending on the position of the thermostat. When the engine is cold and the thermostat closed the coolant short loops under the engine so that your engine warms up fast. As the coolant warms up and the thermostat opens the short loop closes and the long loop is open allowing coolant to travel the long route through the heat ex-changers and around the back of the sled for max cooling.
If you remove the thermostat only. The coolant will not have a direction and both the short and long loop will be open at the same time. The solution is to remove the thermostat and block the short bypass. The result is long loop max cooling continually.
---mac---
Your thermostat housing has three hoses. The hose from the head has the hot coolant. The other two hoses distribute coolant to either one of the two loops depending on the position of the thermostat. When the engine is cold and the thermostat closed the coolant short loops under the engine so that your engine warms up fast. As the coolant warms up and the thermostat opens the short loop closes and the long loop is open allowing coolant to travel the long route through the heat ex-changers and around the back of the sled for max cooling.
If you remove the thermostat only. The coolant will not have a direction and both the short and long loop will be open at the same time. The solution is to remove the thermostat and block the short bypass. The result is long loop max cooling continually.
---mac---
Hi Derek,
Your thermostat housing has three hoses. The hose from the head has the hot coolant. The other two hoses distribute coolant to either one of the two loops depending on the position of the thermostat. When the engine is cold and the thermostat closed the coolant short loops under the engine so that your engine warms up fast. As the coolant warms up and the thermostat opens the short loop closes and the long loop is open allowing coolant to travel the long route through the heat ex-changers and around the back of the sled for max cooling.
If you remove the thermostat only. The coolant will not have a direction and both the short and long loop will be open at the same time. The solution is to remove the thermostat and block the short bypass. The result is long loop max cooling continually.
---mac---
Thanks for the detailed info! Makes perfect sense. How did you block the bypass? Is there a product I can buy to do so or is some backyard engineering needed? Bender says they sell a thermostat eliminator, but getting ahold of them is so far impossible. I think I have left 5 or maybe even 6 msgs now. I am trying to get a few of the setscrews for there transfer rods I lost one of mine.
Thanks again
Derek
Justin@TeamWoodys
New member
Take the bottom hose off and plug it with a peice of broom handle and slide it back on, or take the time to make one out of aluminum.
Mac
Member
Like Justin said:
Broom handle. Its perfect material and very hard. Ive seen guys use a belt sander to hone in on the perfect tapered plug to fit and tap with a mallet into the aluminum housing outlet feeding the short loop.
One more step is needed. Because you have blocked off completely all water to that line an air pocket will form behind the plug. The solution is to drill out the wooden plug with a .187 hole so that a small amount of water does bypass the plug.
Dturn - Kick some *** and make us proud.
---mac---
Broom handle. Its perfect material and very hard. Ive seen guys use a belt sander to hone in on the perfect tapered plug to fit and tap with a mallet into the aluminum housing outlet feeding the short loop.
One more step is needed. Because you have blocked off completely all water to that line an air pocket will form behind the plug. The solution is to drill out the wooden plug with a .187 hole so that a small amount of water does bypass the plug.
Dturn - Kick some *** and make us proud.
---mac---
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
very very good info here , and i think bender closed. well they atleast moved and closed up old location. 3:16x (yammie tony)
very very good info here , and i think bender closed. well they atleast moved and closed up old location. 3:16x (yammie tony)
Thanks so much guys!! I cant wait to start testing!
I just tried calling again and left a pretty nasty msg! If they are closed take your website down and phone number stop wasting my and probably a lot of other peoples time. I want a power valve sync tool, and a set screw for my transfer rods! Anyone know of another place I can spend my money?
Thanks Again! I will post pics and race and test results as they happen!
Derek
Justin@TeamWoodys
New member
Bender sold the shop to Justin fuller and is now called full power racing. He is a great guy and will help you out with older bender knowledge because he was around back then.
Justin@TeamWoodys
New member
I need 5 posts so I can reply to Dturns pm so here I go lol
Justin@TeamWoodys
New member
Four....
Justin@TeamWoodys
New member
Five..
View attachment 63188
Sorry a little bit confused when push came to shove!! DO I install the quick disconnect as the pic describes or off the upper hose which is 3/4"id and the lower hose is 1"id. Also does the bypass"Broomstick handle" go in the thermostat housing?
Thanks
Derek
Sorry a little bit confused when push came to shove!! DO I install the quick disconnect as the pic describes or off the upper hose which is 3/4"id and the lower hose is 1"id. Also does the bypass"Broomstick handle" go in the thermostat housing?
Thanks
Derek
View attachment 63192View attachment 63193View attachment 63194
Hi All,
I did a little more thinking of what was said and you can see I put the piece of broom stick at the bottom of the thermostat housing. I believe that was what you guys were trying to explain. Please confirm this is what you were trying to say. Just thought I should get a thumbs up before I go and cut my upper hose to put my quick disconnects in.
Thanks again
Derek
View attachment 63188
Sorry a little bit confused when push came to shove!! DO I install the quick disconnect as the pic describes or off the upper hose which is 3/4"id and the lower hose is 1"id. Also does the bypass"Broomstick handle" go in the thermostat housing?
Thanks
Derek
Hi All,
I did a little more thinking of what was said and you can see I put the piece of broom stick at the bottom of the thermostat housing. I believe that was what you guys were trying to explain. Please confirm this is what you were trying to say. Just thought I should get a thumbs up before I go and cut my upper hose to put my quick disconnects in.
Thanks again
Derek