97 Vmax600 XTC primary clutch rebuild to OEM

Ride.Race.Live

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Hey guys,

I know clutching questions have been beat to death. But ill keep this short and sweet. (I searched until my eyes went crosseye... all the threads I keep finding are for aftermarket set ups or what not)

Going to refresh a buds primary and im trying to find a complete kitwith no luck.

His roller are worn
Weights seem worn as well


I am assuming his pins are worn in the process too....

So I was going to replace the whole lot permitting I am able to... minus the bushings this year as I dont have the tools to do it...

Now when I look at parts fiche online such as from Yamahapartswarehouse they show various primary clutch tune up "kits" but none of the sites specify whats included and none of the sites even show new OEM weights that would include the pre installed rivets. The weights arn't even part of the parts fiche.

Does anyone here know whats usually included?

This is the parts list ive found so far for what he needs IF I was to buy individually.

Spider collar - 90387-0514U-00 x 3

Bolt, flange - 90105-05644-00 x 6 (same bolts on both sheave and spider)

Nuts - 95607-05200-00 x 6

Washer - 90202-08204-00 x 6 (washers inbetween weights)

Sheave collar - 90387-0514T-00 x 3



These part numbers are from Yamahapartswarehouse but before I jump the gun I want to make sure I got the right parts as it says "alternate clutch assy" not sure why they say its an altenrate.....


Where could I find the OEM weights pre set ready to install and go with no messing around with rivets or anything or is that not possible.


Thanks in advance!
 

I think you will have to buy all the parts separate. I bought a ebay kit for mine and it sucked. bushing were tight and not of good quality. came with wrong size pins too.or should I say seller didn't know there were 2 different sizes. 1 is 8mm and other is 9mm. as far as I know rivets are sold separate as everyone's needs vary. by the time you rebuild it will be a small investment. hope your sheeves aren't spider crack like mine. I'm in the process of converting my 97 vmax to a Polaris p85.better clutch and rebuild parts are cheap and plentiful. maybe would be cheaper to just find a used unit. you can maybe find something much newer also. just an idea
 
The other option he is looking at is just making the jump to the power block 80 from CV tech... which I am actually looking at for a buddy with a polaris edge 600 as well... (clutch needs a full rebuild)

Yea the more I read..the more maybe its worthwhile to just go to the PB80....

My bud has a P85 primary and hes in the same boat needing a full rebuild... in parts alone for it your at 450 CAD then add in shop labor (dont have tools to split spider) which avg's about an hour shop time.... your not far off from buy a whole new calibrated PB80.

Keep in mind... Both Yam and the polaris 600 are remaining stock... no future plans on changing them up or anything.
 
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This is the part number for the kit for that sled from yamaha, 8CR-00000-51-00. looks like it comes with both main bushings, rollers, shims, pins, nuts, bolts
 
awesome thanks!

Buddy seems pretty sold on the powerblock 80 now after talking within a couple mins ago... he's had 1 too many surprises on this sled.. opening up the clutch is asking for more unforseen surprises lol.

Top end was supposed to be done on this... I just did a comp test the other day... 90 on mag 100 on PTO lol

His oil pump is also shot... burning a full tank of oil to his tank of gas
 
awesome thanks!

Buddy seems pretty sold on the powerblock 80 now after talking within a couple mins ago... he's had 1 too many surprises on this sled.. opening up the clutch is asking for more unforseen surprises lol.

Top end was supposed to be done on this... I just did a comp test the other day... 90 on mag 100 on PTO lol

His oil pump is also shot... burning a full tank of oil to his tank of gas

Did you check the gap on the oil pump cable? it should use about a quart of oil per tank of gas.
 
Did you check the gap on the oil pump cable? it should use about a quart of oil per tank of gas.
the gap on the cable has nothing to do with setting up the pump. to set the feed rate hold the throttle wide open and adjust the cable so the lines on the pump align with the mark on the case. that's straight from the manual
 
Both lines on the pump line up at WOT . He did that following the owners manual.

Read that when these pumps wear out they go to wide open... so only thing I can think of as there's no oil leak and the alignment marks are spot on.
 
the gap on the cable has nothing to do with setting up the pump. to set the feed rate hold the throttle wide open and adjust the cable so the lines on the pump align with the mark on the case. that's straight from the manual

The amount of oil the pump pumps into the fuel pump is adjusted at the cable.
 
The amount of oil the pump pumps into the fuel pump is adjusted at the cable.



As pete72 said... I tried messing around with it last night... and basically that adjuster just changes the markings on the oil pump and casing... if I put the 19-21mm some people have said it goes all out of whack. and verifying the owners manual its only showing to adjust the pump and casing lines.
 


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