Amanda11270
New member
After going all thru my damn sleds wiring, getting ready to order every electronic part on the left side cover I found my problem. I thought the smoothing condenser was the rounded off corners style metal component where CDI is located. Here I come to find after ohming it, it doesnt act like a capacitor/condenser, its a damn voltage regulator.
My tach problem is, I dont have a smoothing condenser, its located up where the tach is, I have a red/black plug, but nothing plugged into it. I thought those wires were for something for the electric start version of my sled that I dont have. I happened to look up smoothing condenser on ebay, and I havent seen one of those anywhere on my sled, but the plug looked familiar.
This is only my second sled ever, in the bikes I've owned a condenser is a metal canned thing that is more like the thing I thought was the condenser. DAH!
Ordered that condenser, fingers crossed I will have it fixed by the end of the week.
Tach I guess is not that important, I just want everything to work and I hate not knowing what the problem is.
I rode the sled on my property this past weekend, what a blast.
My tach problem is, I dont have a smoothing condenser, its located up where the tach is, I have a red/black plug, but nothing plugged into it. I thought those wires were for something for the electric start version of my sled that I dont have. I happened to look up smoothing condenser on ebay, and I havent seen one of those anywhere on my sled, but the plug looked familiar.
This is only my second sled ever, in the bikes I've owned a condenser is a metal canned thing that is more like the thing I thought was the condenser. DAH!
Ordered that condenser, fingers crossed I will have it fixed by the end of the week.
Tach I guess is not that important, I just want everything to work and I hate not knowing what the problem is.
I rode the sled on my property this past weekend, what a blast.
super1c
Super Moderator
Man I’ve never heard of a smoothing condenser up there. What that connection is up on the hood harness I’m not sure without looking at it. The only smoothing condenser’s I know of are above the right side footwell when sitting on it tucked behind that cowel. Electrical is not my strong point so I hope I’m wrong.
drew24
New member
What sled is this? I can't remember for sure but it seems like my 99 srx had a smoothing condenser up by the tach. Not sure what problems you are having or if that can cause tach problems but a lot of tach problems are caused by rub throughs in the wiring harness.
super1c
Super Moderator
I hope so so cause I don’t remember ever seeing one there and we have done a lot of work on my buddy’s srx. But the electrical thing is not my strong suit. Hope that’s it.
Amanda11270
New member
Im positive thats where it goes and its missing, wires are same colors, connection is the same. There is even a plastic tab to mount it. I will report back once I receive it tomorrow.
Vincent
New member
Guess you didn't read my thread about installing a smoothing condenser on my Venture? After removing my starter and battery my tachometer didn't work. Once I installed the smoothing condenser, tach function returned.
https://totallyamaha.net/showthread...install?highlight=Smoothing+condenser+install
https://totallyamaha.net/showthread...install?highlight=Smoothing+condenser+install
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super1c
Super Moderator
Very cool. Learn something new everyday. Cool , good info for future reference.
Amanda11270
New member
Installed the smoothing condenser, I got it used off of Ebay. Fired up the sled no tach, I was like dammit. About 30 seconds into it, tach came alive. I think its actually a capacitor (smoothing condenser) and had to charge up before function. Not sure if its related, more than likely though my fuel gauge seemed to register quicker.
I shut it on and off numerous times, instant tach.
Thanks for all the help!
I shut it on and off numerous times, instant tach.
Thanks for all the help!
Vincent
New member
That's weird as my tach worked instantly after I installed the condenser. You are correct about it basically being a capacitor. Happy things turn out for you!
Amanda11270
New member
The seconds to charge that cap was more than likely my idle being too low also. I have not owned a sled in years and in messing with the TORS system lately I had a scary moment where the sensor came off the idle mount and sent the sled into forward motion (scary) while I was messing with it.
My idle was under 1000 rpm, all the lights extremely dim. Upon increasing idle is when I noticed the tach come alive.
I thought I read although that cap is up near the instruments it also has something to do with the sleds “electronics”. My TORS would not work. The carb switch is new, and the kill switch checks out OK upon metering it. Im gonna see if this condenser fixed that circuit also in the near future. Previously I was gonna eliminate it and just make a standard idle screw with no switch on the carb at all but wire in the kill switch so it works to at least shut off the engine when needed.
I must have missed Vincents post previously regarding the condenser might have saved me some time troubleshooting this. I was pulling my hair out. I work as a electrical technician, I consider myself a good troubleshooter, its when someone else worked on something (previous owner must have removed my condenser) and not knowing the part even existed, and not having a schematic, that made this more difficult. I did find some poor rubbed thru wires also I fixed in this repair, so at least I wont have that issue in the future. And I ordered a manual on disc for the sled as I plan other work.
I bought this sled for $400 and have very little in it (about $250 in ebay parts, seat cover, couple power valves, belt, clutch spring, plugs, Tors switch, condenser). Its becoming in better condition everytime I work on it.
The track is not too bad, anyone know can I put a 1.25 inch lug track on it? Or do I have to stick with 1 inch?
My idle was under 1000 rpm, all the lights extremely dim. Upon increasing idle is when I noticed the tach come alive.
I thought I read although that cap is up near the instruments it also has something to do with the sleds “electronics”. My TORS would not work. The carb switch is new, and the kill switch checks out OK upon metering it. Im gonna see if this condenser fixed that circuit also in the near future. Previously I was gonna eliminate it and just make a standard idle screw with no switch on the carb at all but wire in the kill switch so it works to at least shut off the engine when needed.
I must have missed Vincents post previously regarding the condenser might have saved me some time troubleshooting this. I was pulling my hair out. I work as a electrical technician, I consider myself a good troubleshooter, its when someone else worked on something (previous owner must have removed my condenser) and not knowing the part even existed, and not having a schematic, that made this more difficult. I did find some poor rubbed thru wires also I fixed in this repair, so at least I wont have that issue in the future. And I ordered a manual on disc for the sled as I plan other work.
I bought this sled for $400 and have very little in it (about $250 in ebay parts, seat cover, couple power valves, belt, clutch spring, plugs, Tors switch, condenser). Its becoming in better condition everytime I work on it.
The track is not too bad, anyone know can I put a 1.25 inch lug track on it? Or do I have to stick with 1 inch?
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Vincent
New member
A 1.25" track will fit without any issues as long as you dont have the forward heat exchanger protectors. If your machine does have protectors simply cut the welds and remove them.
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