So this offseason I had my carbs off to clean them. I synced them according to the manuals directions, at 1.2mm slide height. Tonight I started it up, counted and it took 15 pulls (pretty good I thought considering dry carbs and hasn't ran since late summer). A little stale smelling from last years gas, but sounds good and running clean. My problem here is with the idle adjustment screw and TORS switch.
I figured the idle would be off since I synced the carbs, and it tells you to adjust the baseline with the idle screw (this still doesn't make sense to me, why adjust to a slide height spec of exactly 1.2mm if you are changing it when setting idle?). Anyway, currently the idle is set around 1600-1700 (manual says 1600 +- 100 RPM), but the TORS is kicking in when:
A: Rev it up and let it come down to idle by itself, right at 3k you can hear it cutting out, after it gets past that RPMS drop back to idle and it's ok.
B: It doesn't happen all the time but off of lower RPM's if I rev it I can SOMETIMES get the TORS to kick in and it'll stay at 3k
The odd thing is no lights come up on the dash. Throttle freeplay is correct, at 3mm currently.
Here's where I think the problem is: I must not be understanding how the idle adjustment screw/TORS switch mount works. There is a nut underneath that goes on the screw:
before the TORS switch goes on, where do I set this nut? I tried having it threaded all the way in, so since these are reversed threads, after the TORS switch is on, if I turn it in (aka less threads shown under bracket) the nut follows down the screw, if I then turn it out the nut doesn't go back up and I'm stuck... I had the adjustment screw come all the way out trying to adjust the idle and the thing stuck wide open because the lower spring pushed the rack out...
How do I set this up to where I can move the idle adjustment screw and not have to take the TORS switch off to reset the position of the nut on the bottom? I'm GUESSING something with the way it's setup now is what's causing the TORS to kick on. Oh, and the two washers on the underside (one plastic and one metal) are now both lost in the abyss of the belly pan, I hope not having those isn't causing any more problems.
Disappointing, it sounds so clean and was starting up first pull thereafter.
I figured the idle would be off since I synced the carbs, and it tells you to adjust the baseline with the idle screw (this still doesn't make sense to me, why adjust to a slide height spec of exactly 1.2mm if you are changing it when setting idle?). Anyway, currently the idle is set around 1600-1700 (manual says 1600 +- 100 RPM), but the TORS is kicking in when:
A: Rev it up and let it come down to idle by itself, right at 3k you can hear it cutting out, after it gets past that RPMS drop back to idle and it's ok.
B: It doesn't happen all the time but off of lower RPM's if I rev it I can SOMETIMES get the TORS to kick in and it'll stay at 3k
The odd thing is no lights come up on the dash. Throttle freeplay is correct, at 3mm currently.
Here's where I think the problem is: I must not be understanding how the idle adjustment screw/TORS switch mount works. There is a nut underneath that goes on the screw:
before the TORS switch goes on, where do I set this nut? I tried having it threaded all the way in, so since these are reversed threads, after the TORS switch is on, if I turn it in (aka less threads shown under bracket) the nut follows down the screw, if I then turn it out the nut doesn't go back up and I'm stuck... I had the adjustment screw come all the way out trying to adjust the idle and the thing stuck wide open because the lower spring pushed the rack out...
How do I set this up to where I can move the idle adjustment screw and not have to take the TORS switch off to reset the position of the nut on the bottom? I'm GUESSING something with the way it's setup now is what's causing the TORS to kick on. Oh, and the two washers on the underside (one plastic and one metal) are now both lost in the abyss of the belly pan, I hope not having those isn't causing any more problems.
Disappointing, it sounds so clean and was starting up first pull thereafter.
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I also added handguards to it, I can feel the thumb throttle rubbing the mount at about 80-100% opening, but do not see it hitting at lower openings. I might try taking it off just to rule out that affecting it.
I was able to get this resolved today. Long story short the TORS switch on the carb rack was bad.
I first tried taking the switch apart and cleaning it, in my opinion it looked pretty clean and everything seemed to be working ok (these two photos are what it looked like before cleaning). What my guess with what is wrong with it is you can see the protective cover is not around the wires as they go into the switch, it's supposed to be held down with that clamp. Salt or something might have gotten in there or the wires bent since there was no support there. Also cleaned out the connectors and added some dielectric grease to them.
Tried running again after cleaning it and the TORS kept kicking on still. Next I took apart the switch on the bars. You can see it looked like the moving portion of the switch was rubbing on the cover and left copper build-up between the 2 contact points. It cleaned up nice. Added a few more photos just showing the kill switch if anyone hasn't seen it before. Has a ball bearing that sits in openings in the housing, and a spring on the switch button itself, when you move it up and down the ball transferring between the two holes is what makes it "click".
I also removed the handguard mount at this time and tried running again and still did it. My dad happened to have a replacement spare TORS switch he bought for his old sled but never used. Put that on, put the handguard back on and tried again. It stopped kicking in like it was before. Did the manual test by holding the lever from pivoting and it worked too.
Lot of messing around but at least I learned how the switches work and got them clean. Not sure why I thought I kept having issues with the idle adjustment screw, seems like it works like it should, maybe the reversed threads was just screwing me up...
A side note, the pin for the throttle flapper uses a circlip on one end and it just pulls out after that. Normally the clip is on the underside, was a pain trying to get it off like that so when I reassembled I put the clip on the top side so it's easier to take off if I ever have to do this again.
Edit: I forgot to add that I never see any lights go on when the TORS is activated though, wonder if the bulb is burnt out.
I first tried taking the switch apart and cleaning it, in my opinion it looked pretty clean and everything seemed to be working ok (these two photos are what it looked like before cleaning). What my guess with what is wrong with it is you can see the protective cover is not around the wires as they go into the switch, it's supposed to be held down with that clamp. Salt or something might have gotten in there or the wires bent since there was no support there. Also cleaned out the connectors and added some dielectric grease to them.
Tried running again after cleaning it and the TORS kept kicking on still. Next I took apart the switch on the bars. You can see it looked like the moving portion of the switch was rubbing on the cover and left copper build-up between the 2 contact points. It cleaned up nice. Added a few more photos just showing the kill switch if anyone hasn't seen it before. Has a ball bearing that sits in openings in the housing, and a spring on the switch button itself, when you move it up and down the ball transferring between the two holes is what makes it "click".
I also removed the handguard mount at this time and tried running again and still did it. My dad happened to have a replacement spare TORS switch he bought for his old sled but never used. Put that on, put the handguard back on and tried again. It stopped kicking in like it was before. Did the manual test by holding the lever from pivoting and it worked too.
Lot of messing around but at least I learned how the switches work and got them clean. Not sure why I thought I kept having issues with the idle adjustment screw, seems like it works like it should, maybe the reversed threads was just screwing me up...
A side note, the pin for the throttle flapper uses a circlip on one end and it just pulls out after that. Normally the clip is on the underside, was a pain trying to get it off like that so when I reassembled I put the clip on the top side so it's easier to take off if I ever have to do this again.
Edit: I forgot to add that I never see any lights go on when the TORS is activated though, wonder if the bulb is burnt out.
super1c
Super Moderator
Nice work. Some good reference pic’s and info for others to follow. There is no torrs light that I’m aware of on the viper? I have a bunch of these and keep the torrs running correctly and have never seen a torrs light when testing. My old 96 xt had a torrs light. But not on the vipers.
Ah ok, I remember the light on the XT, I just assumed this one had it too.
Labrador-Ronin
Member
I'm having a tors problem I think, I'm having to come to a complete stop if I let the throttle go and pump the brakes to slow down, then give throttle again it goes durr durr sure, come to a stop, let Roma from to normal and then I can go again.
I checked the throttle pivot and throttle switch's and they work, I pulled the carb one, the little inner spring popped out, the contacts seems scratchy, I'm going to clean them and try it after I find that spring....
I loosened the throttle cable also, if it's still doing this do you guys think it's the carb rack switch?
I have about 2.5 mm of play on the throttle before the slides move, what's the rpms for idle supposed to be? It's set at 900 or 800 rpm usually
I checked the throttle pivot and throttle switch's and they work, I pulled the carb one, the little inner spring popped out, the contacts seems scratchy, I'm going to clean them and try it after I find that spring....
I loosened the throttle cable also, if it's still doing this do you guys think it's the carb rack switch?
I have about 2.5 mm of play on the throttle before the slides move, what's the rpms for idle supposed to be? It's set at 900 or 800 rpm usually
What sled do you have? The triple red heads are 1600 /-100 at idle (600 at least), 8-900 sounds low even if it's a twin.
Shoot for at least 3mm on the throttle free play. Are you talking about the spring that's in the switch button or the spring that's one the carb rack?
My switch looked totally fine on the contacts and everything, but still ended up being what was bad. Although it looks like you still have the rubber protector over the wires to the housing, mine was moved back on the wires and my guess is that caused extra stress on the wires causing the failure.
Shoot for at least 3mm on the throttle free play. Are you talking about the spring that's in the switch button or the spring that's one the carb rack?
My switch looked totally fine on the contacts and everything, but still ended up being what was bad. Although it looks like you still have the rubber protector over the wires to the housing, mine was moved back on the wires and my guess is that caused extra stress on the wires causing the failure.
I'm bumping this again, NOT for the TORS problem but for the idle adjustment. After I rode it last year the idle seemed too low after it got up to normal riding temp. I tried adjusting it on the trail but had the same problem where it can't be adjusted back because that nut stays in the lowest spot it was. Am I missing something with how this works? I would think you would be able to adjust both was with no tools and not have to do anything special.