Hi All,
I thought I would post my results from the radar run even though I was not overly happy with them.... Thought maybe I could get some input.
temp was 36 degrees,
ice was not great especially as the day went on
heel clicker setup
21/40 gears
.75 2 ply track with 144 1.2" lake racers
everything else stock
I could only pull 8200 on the big end
best run 90mph was good for 3rd in stock 7 - (1st and 2nd were f7's running 97 and 98 mph)
I was running 65g and some change in the clutch arms heel and tip ( I don't have any more info than that because my note book is in the trailer) with a heel clicker red primary and a silver dot secondary at 70 twist
My question is why was I able to get rpms grass dragging this summer but not on ice? My guess was that I was running 94octane this summer and only put 91 octane in for the ice racing. Basically maybe I just didn't have the power to pull the tip weight?
Anyways my fault for not getting any test runs in.
Thanks
Derek
I thought I would post my results from the radar run even though I was not overly happy with them.... Thought maybe I could get some input.
temp was 36 degrees,
ice was not great especially as the day went on
heel clicker setup
21/40 gears
.75 2 ply track with 144 1.2" lake racers
everything else stock
I could only pull 8200 on the big end
best run 90mph was good for 3rd in stock 7 - (1st and 2nd were f7's running 97 and 98 mph)
I was running 65g and some change in the clutch arms heel and tip ( I don't have any more info than that because my note book is in the trailer) with a heel clicker red primary and a silver dot secondary at 70 twist
My question is why was I able to get rpms grass dragging this summer but not on ice? My guess was that I was running 94octane this summer and only put 91 octane in for the ice racing. Basically maybe I just didn't have the power to pull the tip weight?
Anyways my fault for not getting any test runs in.
Thanks
Derek
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RXMax
Member
Octane of fuel is not the issue unless you have the compression and jetting for that specific octane. You need a different helix with heel clickers. 50/40 . If not remove tip weight
Octane of fuel is not the issue unless you have the compression and jetting for that specific octane. You need a different helix with heel clickers. 50/40 . If not remove tip weight
I am running an advantedge 45/41helix
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I agree with you, and will remove a gram from each arm and start with that.
Thanks
Thanks
Mac
Member
Don't feel bad loosing to F7. The Cat F7 has ruled the finals at Haydays and every other pro race since they were introduced in 2003. They make 138 HP same as SRX but weight 100 lbs less. Ya just cant overcome the weight difference.
Regarding fuel. The lower the octane the more power the engine makes. 91 makes more power than 94.
---mac---
Regarding fuel. The lower the octane the more power the engine makes. 91 makes more power than 94.
---mac---
Don't feel bad loosing to F7. The Cat F7 has ruled the finals at Haydays and every other pro race since they were introduced in 2003. They make 138 HP same as SRX but weight 100 lbs less. Ya just cant overcome the weight difference.
Regarding fuel. The lower the octane the more power the engine makes. 91 makes more power than 94.
---mac---
Thanks. I agree on the F7s but I think I can get a few more mph out of her! Those F7s were far from stock race box's chisels, custom pipes, who knows what kind of porting! Its a a back yard radar run so no teching! Probably 20 sleds in the stock 700 class and only 3 in the 700 modified class.... Hahaha
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
From the H/C tuning page here on TY.I am running an advantedge 45/41helix
4.) you need a shallow finish angle to use h/c's anything from a 50'ish start to a 34 finish works good, some of the common helix I use all the time are: 50/36, 48/34, 48/36, 49/36, you get the idea, stay shallow on the finish and it will pull very respectable top end and allows you to run lots of tip weight, so now your hanging onto the belt in both the primary and the secondary. The h/c weights already act like a progressive angle helix, so you’re not going to be up in the big helix start/finish angles now. A shallow finish does 2 things it clamps the belt harder in the secondary and does not require as much spring tension from the secondary spring because of this, by using only enough rear secondary spring tension it will allow the sled to run faster on top end, you only want to control the shift with the rear spring tension, not over power it!
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
its a 660ft radar run... not a drag race, so I would of used a gear set that was taller(numericly lower) as you want mph not worried about et. the longer time your on the ice for 660ft the more time you have to build mph. Your helix is too big on the finish angle for rest of your set up, the advantedge helix shift like a helix that 3 degrees steeper because of the angle of the cut, so your trying to upshift a helix with about 44 degrees in the finish.... which will lower rpm, because its overshifted. Third, is the sec. spring a silver is for drag racing, you need a green set soft or even a red if you can hold the belt, a looser sec spring tension will give you more mph.
its a 660ft radar run... not a drag race, so I would of used a gear set that was taller(numericly lower) as you want mph not worried about et. the longer time your on the ice for 660ft the more time you have to build mph. Your helix is too big on the finish angle for rest of your set up, the advantedge helix shift like a helix that 3 degrees steeper because of the angle of the cut, so your trying to upshift a helix with about 44 degrees in the finish.... which will lower rpm, because its overshifted. Third, is the sec. spring a silver is for drag racing, you need a green set soft or even a red if you can hold the belt, a looser sec spring tension will give you more mph.
Makes perfect sense! I was running the green dot last winter and ran better, but changed to the silver for grass. I guess everything is different clutch wise for ice and grass. What would you suggest for 660' helix from advantage I will order one asap.
Would a 43/33 from advantedge work?
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I asked Allen about the Advant Edge he has. This inquiry was for a helix for my 40-10s that I do not have on yet.
New message from: srxspec
47/37 would be the Dalton equivalent to our 43/33.
New message from: srxspec
47/37 would be the Dalton equivalent to our 43/33.
I asked Allen about the Advant Edge he has. This inquiry was for a helix for my 40-10s that I do not have on yet.
New message from: srxspec
47/37 would be the Dalton equivalent to our 43/33.
That's funny I just got an email from him as well about that! Do you think that will work as that's all they have left that's close to a finish that shallow.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Take everything I say about H/Cs with a grain of salt. As I’ve only read Mr. Vipers H/C tips about a dozen times but haven’t had any snow here in the last 3 years. So I haven’t even bothered to put them on.
Now having said that, according to what I cut and pasted above from Mr V, yes that should be ok.
Now having said that, according to what I cut and pasted above from Mr V, yes that should be ok.
That's funny I just got an email from him as well about that! Do you think that will work as that's all they have left that's close to a finish that shallow.
Innitial angle is not aggresive enough and finish angle will be perfect in that range ..u can try to add alots of weight in the heel since the helix will not be very aggressive
Thanks I do the same he knows his shit!
Anyone have a good helix for sale?
Thanks for all the help guys, have another radar run feb 17th.
Anyone have a good helix for sale?
Thanks for all the help guys, have another radar run feb 17th.
Innitial angle is not aggresive enough and finish angle will be perfect in that range ..u can try to add alots of weight in the heel since the helix will not be very aggressive
Thanks I will do some more digging and see if I can find one.