thefindian
New member
Hey guys I replaced the tiny oil seal where the RPM cable screws into the oil pump drive assy and it is still leaking the shaft must be wore enough at the inner part of the seal and of coarse that part is no longer available has anyone come up with a fix for this problem that actually works I was thinking of just using a bunch of silicone but this sled is so damn nice it would be a shame to do that but I guess it would be better then a bunch of oil every where or does someone have a new shaft laying around?
Thanks
Dave
Thanks
Dave
I have this same issue. Hope someone chimes in with a cure.
opsled
Active member
If it's still leaking after new, properly installed seal then you need to find a different pump or parts. The tach drive gear/shaft is the same in almost all those Yammies so you should be able to find good used.
I've seen those pumps on Exciters damaged/cracked due to over tightening of the cross tube that holds down the fuel and oil tanks. There are lock tabs on those tube bolts. They are to be snugged to prevent tank movement then locked. Guys crank them down too far putting excessive pressure on the tanks causing the tops to spit under the tube. Water gets into the tank, heads for the lowest point (oil pump) and freezes. Not good for the pump.
opsled
I've seen those pumps on Exciters damaged/cracked due to over tightening of the cross tube that holds down the fuel and oil tanks. There are lock tabs on those tube bolts. They are to be snugged to prevent tank movement then locked. Guys crank them down too far putting excessive pressure on the tanks causing the tops to spit under the tube. Water gets into the tank, heads for the lowest point (oil pump) and freezes. Not good for the pump.
opsled
thefindian
New member
If it's still leaking after new, properly installed seal then you need to find a different pump or parts. The tach drive gear/shaft is the same in almost all those Yammies so you should be able to find good used.
I've seen those pumps on Exciters damaged/cracked due to over tightening of the cross tube that holds down the fuel and oil tanks. There are lock tabs on those tube bolts. They are to be snugged to prevent tank movement then locked. Guys crank them down too far putting excessive pressure on the tanks causing the tops to spit under the tube. Water gets into the tank, heads for the lowest point (oil pump) and freezes. Not good for the pump.
opsled
Thanks Opsled I pulled it apart yesterday the shaft is probably fine its the bushing that is bad i can move the shaft side to side I am going to silicone the hole shut I will just not have the tachometer hooked up that should not be a big deal I will ride this this sled like 3 times this winter on some vintage rides. I have another sled with this same oil pump drive setup and that one leaks to with a new seal in it.
thefindian
New member
Thanks Opsled I pulled it apart yesterday the shaft is probably fine its the bushing that is bad i can move the shaft side to side I am going to silicone the hole shut I will just not have the tachometer hooked up that should not be a big deal I will ride this this sled like 3 times this winter on some vintage rides. I have another sled with this same oil pump drive setup and that one leaks to with a new seal in it.
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I siliconed the whole shut the drawback is I do not have the RPM cable hooked up but no more continuous oil leaking It even leaks when the motor is not running.
I am on the hunt for a new shaft and bushing but I will probably never find them new.
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