97sx700 clutch setup

viperino

viperino

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Feb 7, 2005
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Welland, Ontario
i have a fully stock 97sx700(15000+kms and still kickin) and am looking for an aggressive trail riding setup.....any suggestions on helixes, springs or weights?
 

This is from TY's technical pages that you can navigate to from the TY homepage.
Turk is a tuning rockstar and good guy to boot, here are his recomendations.

97-99 SX700 Trail

51/43 Helix, stock weights w/4.5g rivet in 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2-3 engagement shims, stock springs, 1 or 2 layers removed from head gasket and 22/40 gearing. Jetting: 142.5 mains

97-99 SX700 Racing

51/43 Helix, 8-ca weights w/4.5g rivet 1st hole and 3.1g in tip, 2-3 engagement shims, stock spring primary, silver secondary, 1 or 2 layers removed from head gasket and 20/40 gearing. Jetting: 140 mains
 
k thnx, ill look into that....im not too interested in touching the engine tho and don't want to drop too much $$$into it. do u think its possible to just do the clutch mods as per his suggestions without getting the heads shaved and still get a good result?
 
You don't need to shave the head. What you do is remove layer(s) from the head gaskets. The gasket is made with 3 layers they're pinned together with rivots.
There is a description on how to do this on the tech pages as well.

The mods are really pretty cheap. The prices are roughly
Reed spacer kit $50.
Head gasket mod Free (you can reuse the gaskets)
Boring silencer Free
51/43 helix $70 to $100
New gear $45
New rivets for the stock weights, $15 to $20

When your done it will feel like a new sled and pull better than it ever did.
 
It's only fair to warn you you may not want to do this. I never worked on any sled before doing the exact mods were discussing. A little gear change, tweak the clutch, thin the head gasket, no big deal.
It's only the beginning! Next thing there'll be pipes, then porting, carb twaking and more carb tweaking. A new rear suspension, a new front suspension, new handelbars, risers, gages. Taller lug track, maybe new drivers, bigger heat exchangers.
Oh the humanity!
Run rino! get out while you still can!
 
If you don't want to touch the motor then one of Turks alternative clutch setups for a stock 700sx similar to the one above is this:

51/43 helix, 2-3 engagement shims, stock weights with 4.5 gram rivet in 1st hole, 2.4 gram rivet in tip, stock primary and secondary spring, secondary spring set @ 70 degrees.

This setup works great as an alternate to the gear and gasket mod.
 
I assume that setup improves corner to corner accelleration. Does it affect top end much? More or Less? I am thinking of boring the silencer and removing a gasket layer and I think I already need to add more weight in the tips since my 9830 is making me rev up to around 9200 and it feels like I lost some top end. Not sure I'm interested in changing the gear.
 
I put a thinner head gasket, carbon reeds and a Bender Racing Clutch kit... probably $250 worth of parts and 3 hours of wrenching.. I did this back in 1999 and it was the best thing I did.. The back shifting is awesome which allows better hole-shots... Yamaha stock clutching on these sleds was mediocre at best...
 
Mod makes the sled quite a bit louder but sounds excellent. Easy way to get this mod (bore silencer) done is to ship it to Maxx Performance and let them do it. I think the cost was around $75 U.S. Turks clutch set ups work great for real short money. I am running his setup with 23/40 gearing, stock track and a 168 picks. The can has been bored, 2 layer head gasket and reed stoppers notched. I needed 4.5 grams in both holes to get rpm's to 8300. Also for hard packed open trails I find 60* twist better. 70* works better in the tight and twisty trails but you will lose alittle top end. This is my experience on a 2000 700 Vmax.
 
Don't waste your money sending the silencer out to be bored. Buy a $6 hole saw and a $5 drill bit extention and your in business. 5 minute job.
 
Cut and pasted from the tech pages.

First the things you will need

1. you will need a good drill
2. 2" metal hole saw (see pic below)
3. 12 inch drill extension
4. A magnet on a stick (like in car parts store) could come in handy
5. needle nose pliers or visegrips


OK first thing is take the springs that hold the can in place off with the
pliers. Then take the can out and turn it up side down, the exhaust pipe that
goes through the belly pan is where you will be drilling. Put the can on its
side in a vise with the exhaust port pointing out the side. Take a light and
look into the can, you will see a flat baffle plate inside. This is the
plate you will need to drill, this is the only baffle you need to drill.
Take your drill, extension, and hole saw and insert it in the exhaust hole and
drill. It will take some time and patience to drill through, but it will go.
Once through, if you're lucky the piece you drilled out will remain in the
hole saw. If not turn can right side up and shake it till the piece falls
out the bottom, or take the magnet and try and fish it out. Next just
reinstall your can, and enjoy the sweet sound and free HP.
 
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