KidWithTheSRX
New member
As stated in the title, I have a 2001 Yamaha SRX 700, I’ve the summer I had new stainless tops put on my powervalves (one wore through) and now I’m getting a code from my temp light, seven short flashes, then it stops. I’m wondering if I set the servo wrong? I did what the Yamaha manual said. Could it be the coolant, it was a little low and I had the back end in the air for a few weeks too. Just trying to figure out what the code means. The servo does move, I’m just unsure if it is moving the right amount. Thanks in advance!
I think 7 flashes is a power valve code.
Servo motor.
Servo motor.
KidWithTheSRX
New member
I had read that somewhere too. I took the cover off and can see the motor move, but I don’t know how much its supposed to move. The valves aren’t seized because I just replaced them. hmm
Have you done this ?
https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobile...ng Power Valves/Setting Your Power Valves.htm
https://totallyamaha.com/snowmobile...ng Power Valves/Setting Your Power Valves.htm
KidWithTheSRX
New member
Yea, I followed this, my cables were a little stretched to it was closer to 3mm, but I didn’t think that would make a difference...
SRXChris
Member
7 flashes is the powervalve issue. I'd start slacking all cables and idle it down to 900 and watch servo open, hit kill switch it should stay open with the slack and mark it. Than set them all over again as long as your sure nothing is wrong with the valves and cables. Run it on stand with servo cover off and see what it does.
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KidWithTheSRX
New member
All the cables are loose enough I can grab them and move them from the servo end, the motor moves when I run the sled, could it be my idle? I was noticing it was moving back and forth a lot because when it’s cold my sled idles at around 1000rpm, and then goes to about 1700 once warm.
SRXChris
Member
I'm no expert maybe someone else will chime in but 7 flashes in the service manual says servo for the PV's.
It’s important to understand the OB Diagnostic strategy ofthe CDI module regarding the PVs. Its purpose is to identify a valve that doesnot open fully due to being stuck/gummed up or misadjusted. It cannot detect abroken cable or pull through.
If the servo wheel can’t reach full open it’ll jitter backand forth and set the code. At normal idle above 900 rpm, the valves are closedand there should be a lot of cable slack. Conversely, when the servo wheel isforced into the valve open position either by turning the idle down below 900or applying 12 volts to the diagnostic pigtail (engine off), there should be enoughslack to allow the servo wheel to reach full travel yet still fully open thePV. Too much slack and the PV will not be fully open. Too little or no slack, thelimit switch in the servo can’t close because the wheel isn’t reaching fulltravel.
I use the pigtail and 12 volts and don’t bother with markingthe wheel. I back off all the cableadjusters, activate the servo to open with 12 volts to the pigtail, make theadjustment. I then reapply 12 volts to the servo and recheck the adjustment.
KidWithTheSRX
New member
This might help me take the next step, where is the 12v connector located?
There is a triangular white plug with a cap on it and it should be somewhere in the vicinity of the frame the gas tank shroud bolts to,right behind the airbox on the left side of the sled if you were sitting on it.The plug will have 2 wires in it,a red and a black if I remember right.Gear yourself up 2 wires with slim connectors that fit the ones in the white plug.One is a ground and the other is obviously power so you will need a 12vdc power supply like a battery.Put a toggle switch inline with the power wire that way you can shut off the power once you get the servo powered up.
KidWithTheSRX
New member
Can that be used for accessories as well? As an update, I managed to solve the power valve issue using the idle method. I think the first time I didn’t get far enough below 900rpm for the servo to open all the way. I haven’t seen any codes since, but we will see when we get enough snow to actually ride.