Greetings!
I have a 2000 SXR 700 and I'm trying to get more traction. I came across the Mountain Performance kit where you remove the transfer rods and add the straps to the rear arm. I'm going to try this on my SXR but was wondering if the rear arm would hit the back wheels under load. I think it should clear just wondering if any one has ever tried!
Thanks!
-Jeff
I have a 2000 SXR 700 and I'm trying to get more traction. I came across the Mountain Performance kit where you remove the transfer rods and add the straps to the rear arm. I'm going to try this on my SXR but was wondering if the rear arm would hit the back wheels under load. I think it should clear just wondering if any one has ever tried!
Thanks!
-Jeff
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
What track are you running?
i'm running a stock skid with a camoplast track off of a 04 rev
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Current lug height ?
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Have you let the straps out(13 & 14) so there is only two threads left?
https://partstream.arinet.com/Mobil...CLGhE3OP8WBLjH7QILZsqnHpFk95HzTKtV38Qrs1.html
https://partstream.arinet.com/Mobil...CLGhE3OP8WBLjH7QILZsqnHpFk95HzTKtV38Qrs1.html
Yes I have loosened the front straps which helped slightly but hasn't given me what I'm looking for yet. This thing is an absolute beast, power Inc end dumps, fully clutched reed spacers etc. But I just can't get it to hook. I like what I have read about removing the rear transfer rods and want to give it a shot but I'm worried about the clearance on the rear arm. If I can get the hole shot she will benjoy unstoppable
bluewho
Active member
I think that kit is more of a deep snow thing .If I was setting up the sled for what you want start with the sled on a smooth flat surface. Try to turn the bars back and forth and remember how hard it was.Slide some plywood under the front of the track to were it hits the lugs. Now take some preload off the front ski shocks so the sled sags from were it was.Is it harder too steer good,has the front of the track come down good.
Leave the limiters out and increase the centre shock for more preload.Give youself more of a gap on the transfer rods .Stock rods?Move the welded washer higher.Adjustable rods/ modify so the gap is larger.Put the fra link on the bottom setting is what really helps. Try it and adjust to were the skis only come up on hard hits.
Leave the limiters out and increase the centre shock for more preload.Give youself more of a gap on the transfer rods .Stock rods?Move the welded washer higher.Adjustable rods/ modify so the gap is larger.Put the fra link on the bottom setting is what really helps. Try it and adjust to were the skis only come up on hard hits.
i'll just give it a shot. I'll make a nice little write up of the experience too. it gives an advantage allowing even more transfer than modified rods by uncoupling the suspension. i have done alot of research on it, although i havent tried it with the newer track. question i was asking was if it will work with out breaking anything. If any one has expierience with this setup and this track it would be great! i've already adjusted all the suspension. i want maximum transfer.
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
You'll probably never get a 121" 700 trip trip to hook. You need a bigger footprint.
bluewho
Active member
Ya I tried running with no rods it makes the sled unstable in corners on the trail.ok in deep snow. Put shocks on inplace of the transfer rods with stoppers so the big wheel kit would not get hit when the suspenshion rocked back.Made the sled ride nice but the skis would not stay down.Any thing you do to modify stock will break lots of parts,trust me.Add more gap on the rods will do the same thing.
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Ya I tried running with no rods it makes the sled unstable in corners on the trail.ok in deep snow. Put shocks on inplace of the transfer rods with stoppers so the big wheel kit would not get hit when the suspenshion rocked back.Made the sled ride nice but the skis would not stay down.Any thing you do to modify stock will break lots of parts,trust me.Add more gap on the rods will do the same thing.
Def appreciate the input guys! I honestly want stupid ski lift. I don't plan on trail riding that much on this sled mostly boondocking and looking for some more weight transfer... Bluewho... would i need that stopper rod that you had installed with stock wheels?
A couple of bucks
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Remove the top plastic spacer on the transfer rods.I honestly want stupid ski lift.looking for some more weight transfer
Yamitriple
Member
What do you run for jetting a clutching? I know it’s off topic but super curious!
bluewho
Active member
Def appreciate the input guys! I honestly want stupid ski lift. I don't plan on trail riding that much on this sled mostly boondocking and looking for some more weight transfer... Bluewho... would i need that stopper rod that you had installed with stock wheels?
I don't think you do but a heavy guy standing on the rear bumper after the rods have been removed will tell you. For what you want to do, get a 1\.25 track and loose the studs! Biggest improvement hands down. As said remove the top washer on the rods or cut down the bottoms for more gap and go try it. If you jump your sled with that kit and land on one corner at the back things will bend. with no rods.
So might have bought a mountain max with a 141 today . How hard is it to swap the skid into a sxr?
Tbellrichard
New member
Where did you get you clutch kit?
It came on the sled when I bought it last year. I haven't really checked the clutching setup yet but it is clutched perfectly for the power Inc end dumps. It has a fancy helix on the secondary too. I'll check when in in the garage next time.Where did you get you clutch kit?
https://youtu.be/OV1C3vNjhcU
Heres a clip of me farting around in the yard with it. You can see the lack of traction. This was last year when i took the top washer out and was testing it quick
Heres a clip of me farting around in the yard with it. You can see the lack of traction. This was last year when i took the top washer out and was testing it quick