Hello,
I bought some heelclicker clutch parts from Forum member. Now i need to instal parts and adjust it. Can you recommend some setup or give advice?
I have stock head with Bender opticool gasget and speedwerx pipes. Looking for 9000-91000rpm. Track is 32mm, (1 17/64inc)
8 tooth drivers so gearing is little shorter, looking for better acceleration.
Runnin sealevel, main jet 165, pilot jet 50, pilot screw open 1.75 rounds. Needles stock. Going to open pilot 2 rounds
I have heelclicker red spring for primary and white for secondary.
Two helix, first one is Bender 51/43 other is hauck 45/34.
And i think rollers which came with heelclicker are 15.6mm.
What do you think, which helix is "better" and how much spring preload? How much weight for arm. Something like heel 4.8g and tip 3.3g, mid empty?
Thanks forward.
I bought some heelclicker clutch parts from Forum member. Now i need to instal parts and adjust it. Can you recommend some setup or give advice?
I have stock head with Bender opticool gasget and speedwerx pipes. Looking for 9000-91000rpm. Track is 32mm, (1 17/64inc)
8 tooth drivers so gearing is little shorter, looking for better acceleration.
Runnin sealevel, main jet 165, pilot jet 50, pilot screw open 1.75 rounds. Needles stock. Going to open pilot 2 rounds
I have heelclicker red spring for primary and white for secondary.
Two helix, first one is Bender 51/43 other is hauck 45/34.
And i think rollers which came with heelclicker are 15.6mm.
What do you think, which helix is "better" and how much spring preload? How much weight for arm. Something like heel 4.8g and tip 3.3g, mid empty?
Thanks forward.
The heelclickers like a shallow finish so the second helix. Mrviper700 is the go to guy on heelclickers, he should chime in, I have seen him online last couple days. I can give you the setup he gave me, but I have slps and trail ported.
That would be nice. I notice that i have also 16.5mm rollers. If anyone can tell how much those bolt and washers weights, because i dont't have small scale... Just so typical mistake
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" If anyone can tell how much those bolt and washers weights," are you asking about the once in the heelclicker clutch kit?
Here is the setup Don gave me (keep in mind I have SLPs and trail port) 4.5 heel, 3.4 mid and tip, shift RPM goal of 9000, Secondary Try stock red at 90 or green at 60-70. I am also at 1000' (300m) above sea level and this setup is pretty much spot on.
Here is the setup Don gave me (keep in mind I have SLPs and trail port) 4.5 heel, 3.4 mid and tip, shift RPM goal of 9000, Secondary Try stock red at 90 or green at 60-70. I am also at 1000' (300m) above sea level and this setup is pretty much spot on.
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This should help you with the bolt weights http://www.sledgear.com/hc_install_yama.htm
Thanks captnviper, that helped a lot. I installed 15.6 rollers, red spring, put 2.3g Bolt + 5x 5mm washers, so weight on heel shoud be 4.8g. Put short Bolt on tip 3.3g. Mid empty. I used Hauck 45/34 Helix holes 1-6, spring was with white mark. Maybe yamaha white? It feels that it grab belt pretty high, tomorrow going to long testride.
the white dot secondary spring will be way too stiff, install the stock viper red dot secondary at 80 degrees with that helix and report back rpm
Istalled that red dot secondary spring. Runs pretty fine, about 8900-8950rpm when put full throtle immediately. There was one open field and rpm climbed to 9000. Unfortunatly my chaincase broke so nees to fix that before i can test more. Trails were so bumby, it was hard to ride full throtle and test. I think i need to change secondary slide nuts, it was littlebit sticky.
yamalars
Member
Clutching seems to be almost spot on!
Talked to a former snowcross rider about chaincase (lower) bearing. His sayed that all longtravel proaction yamahas has a built in flex in the chassie that kills the driveshaft bearings. I have changed a few on varius sleds, my srx, vipers etc. All with pretty low milage. So his findings make sense to me. His tip is to swap the lower chaincase bearing for a spherical bearing witch will take the flex without brake the bearing/case. Talked to him last week so i haven't tryed this myself yet. Maybe someone here tryed? Any input would be nice. Link to spherical bearing:https://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-1205-E...756977&hash=item4b49426a39:g:RLAAAOSw57BbTAnS
Yeah that is true, there is some flex, it also kills bearings if track is way too tight. I have opened limiter straps as much as possible, it works nice with modded frontend.
Changed spare part chaincase and 23 top gear because i have only a 70 link chain. I think i need to test that bearing, but first lets test how it runs now. If gearing is too long i need to buy new chain and top gear. There was some marks on it.
I have planned to change lynx pps2 skid 128", i think it would be better on our trails and sowcross tracks.
Changed spare part chaincase and 23 top gear because i have only a 70 link chain. I think i need to test that bearing, but first lets test how it runs now. If gearing is too long i need to buy new chain and top gear. There was some marks on it.
I have planned to change lynx pps2 skid 128", i think it would be better on our trails and sowcross tracks.
yamalars
Member
Your gearing should be fine with that 23 topgear, as you run 8 tooth drivers your gearing still will be lower than stock. The pps skid is a great choise!
By far the best bumpeater i have tryed! Have a 146" pps skid myself that i need to fit in my warrior (attack)