!st summer to store. Help


My Summer Storage Routine:


  • Run engine to operating temp (HXs are hot)
  • Raise rear skid, spin the track with the enginewhile spraying silicone spray to the track, tunnel, skid
  • Drain fuel, add a gallon back to the tank alongwith 3-4 ounces of ATF
  • Run engine for another 10 minutes (watching foroverheat), applying half choke intermittently
  • Drain fuel and use it for your lawnmower (itsvalve guides/stems will love you for it)
  • Remove air-box
  • Start engine and spray a half can fogging agentthrough the carbs
  • Remove spark plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders,reinstall plugs
  • Install air-box, remove drive belt, sprayeverything under-hood with silicone spray
  • Park in designated spot, lift sled off theground from the chassis allowingsuspension to hang
  • Loosen track tension to negate the forming of corrosionspots to the drive and rear axle bearing races
  • Plug exhaust outlet
  • Cover and forget until November


 
I also put an entire opened box of mothballs in the engine compartment. There is no need to scatter them either. Just open the box or bag.
I'm a big supporter of Fluid Film too. It is Lanolin based and does not degrade rubber like petroleum based protectants. If I have some, I'll put it on track suspension equipment.
Plus it is the best I've used to wear-in work boots. Think about it .... it's what the sheeps use. Har-har
 
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i fill them full of high test gas and seafoam and run them once a month, with spinning the track, up to temp.
 
I've found that if it is non-ethanol fuel I can just use Seafoam per the bottles directions and have no issues. With the triple pipes on mine I have to run premium, and we have several local stations that have a non ethanol premium option so I only use those places when filling up. I normally don't even need to clean the carbs. When I start it the next year if it idles fine without choke and picks rpm's up smoothly then I've never had an issue with not pulling them. If ethanol fuel, then I've heard that Marine fuel stabilizer is necessary. Several years ago when we first got ethanol fuel there wasn't any place that had non-ethanol. I can say that during those two years before we got a non-ethanol option I found that Seafoam does NOT help if ethanol fuel...all 3 pilots had blockage in them both years after firing it up. I also like to fill the plastic fuel tank clear full to give less surface area for condensation.

Also to the OP, Maim and Vincent's method of starting periodically is fine too...but the key part of it is to run it long enough to get up to operating temp. This ensures any moisture created from combustion will evaporate off. I myself would probably also hold the oiler open for the last couple of minutes to hopefully pump some extra oil that will get down to the crank if using that method. I've always been a leave it alone after prepping for storage kind of guy, but many do start them periodically. Mine aren't stored at my home, so it's easier to prep them to just sit the whole off season.
 
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Ok. I'll try a gas additive and run them once a month! See what happens next fall. That's what we do with our street bikes all winter and they work fine, but they are all fuel injection
 
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