Would a kimpex xenon white H4 P43T 100/55W be a suitable replacement for this snowmobile
A couple of bucks
VIP Member
No...
super1c
Super Moderator
X2. You have to be careful with the old 75 watt ignition system. LED’s are your best bet.
Jack99
Member
Jimmy.
If you can wait until after March 12 (or so), I can give you a product review on a new Motorcycle H4 LED bulb I bought this morning. Being in the far north, it takes time for Amazon to ship to me. If wondering, I plan to install this H4 LED bulb in my 1999 Venture 600 triple (which is probably very similar to your 1999 vmax 600 triple).
Plan A (LED mass inside light assembly) is: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BTTFN1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Plan B (LED mass outside light assembly) is: https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-He...gateway&sprefix=Hikari+h4+LED,aps,626&sr=8-10
Note: For snowmobiles, I was advised that motorcycle LEDs are best - since they don't have external power modules (like many automobile LEDs).
Hope this helps (if you can wait).
If you can wait until after March 12 (or so), I can give you a product review on a new Motorcycle H4 LED bulb I bought this morning. Being in the far north, it takes time for Amazon to ship to me. If wondering, I plan to install this H4 LED bulb in my 1999 Venture 600 triple (which is probably very similar to your 1999 vmax 600 triple).
Plan A (LED mass inside light assembly) is: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BTTFN1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Plan B (LED mass outside light assembly) is: https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-He...gateway&sprefix=Hikari+h4+LED,aps,626&sr=8-10
Note: For snowmobiles, I was advised that motorcycle LEDs are best - since they don't have external power modules (like many automobile LEDs).
Hope this helps (if you can wait).
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I have issues w/ those white white white headlights. My eyes are a light blue. Blue eyed people have a hard time processing really white light. They are generally discouraged to weld for a living. I went the opposite way on the Kelvin scale and no longer suffer from eye strain. These are in the sled and my Cherokee. Stock wattage for the sled and 90/100s in the Cherokee(with wiring harness). With a really white light on white snow.... I'd squint 100% of the time. And it felt like my eyes were on a slow burn cycle for 1 hr afterwards. Plus, there is definition between woops. Many pictures you see of these in vehicles is overly exaggerated. They are the color of a candle flame. Mtec Golden Style.
Again, this I just me. Many people don't suffer from this.
https://www.amazon.com/MTEC-Golden-Style-Pair-Warranty/dp/B007K6DY6O
Again, this I just me. Many people don't suffer from this.
https://www.amazon.com/MTEC-Golden-Style-Pair-Warranty/dp/B007K6DY6O
Jack99
Member
.
Attached are pictures of my 1999 Venture using factory H4 Halogen bulb.
As seen in below pictures, the factory H4 bulbs are "too dim" on a dark night.
Luckily, I don't do very much dark time riding.....
Attached are pictures of my 1999 Venture using factory H4 Halogen bulb.
As seen in below pictures, the factory H4 bulbs are "too dim" on a dark night.
Luckily, I don't do very much dark time riding.....
Attachments
Jack99
Member
.
Received motorcycle H4 LED bulb from Amazon (see below picture) this AM and installed it at lunch time. With sled idling in my garage, both LOW and HIGH beams worked. Due to low engine RPMs (at 1st cold start-up), this LED bulb has some flicker. Will test tonight (with warm engine & higher engine RPMs) to see if their flicker disappears. Wanted to test longer time but my attached garage was getting too much smoke. Ouch!
I will post dark time usage pictures tonight and my final overall usage recommendations - of this specific H4 LED bulb (from Amazon).
re: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BTTFN1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Received motorcycle H4 LED bulb from Amazon (see below picture) this AM and installed it at lunch time. With sled idling in my garage, both LOW and HIGH beams worked. Due to low engine RPMs (at 1st cold start-up), this LED bulb has some flicker. Will test tonight (with warm engine & higher engine RPMs) to see if their flicker disappears. Wanted to test longer time but my attached garage was getting too much smoke. Ouch!
I will post dark time usage pictures tonight and my final overall usage recommendations - of this specific H4 LED bulb (from Amazon).
re: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07BTTFN1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jack99
Member
Field test:
- With warm engine and above normal idle RPMs, there's no flickering on its Low Beam. Actually, I love the Low Beam of these H4 LED bulbs with warm engine. They are amazingly brighter and work great compared to factory H4 Halogen bulbs.
- The high beam doesn't work properly. It's very dim and flickers when engine is at warm idle. And when engine RPM increases, the high beam light flickers and goes out. Very strange. I'll do more testing tomorrow to determine if its the bulb (high beam side), the high beam switch or some other root cause. Or, if its high beam must be wired to battery via relay. Thus, feeding it "cleaner / consistent" 12 volts flow.
At the high level, I do love LED lights in my Sled. They are brighter, I can see more accurate ground conditions and they are "friendly" on my eyes. re: Much less eye strain compared to yellowish halogen light bulbs. And, the LED (even in low beam mode) allowed me to see the moose on the trail.
More to come on my future testing...
- With warm engine and above normal idle RPMs, there's no flickering on its Low Beam. Actually, I love the Low Beam of these H4 LED bulbs with warm engine. They are amazingly brighter and work great compared to factory H4 Halogen bulbs.
- The high beam doesn't work properly. It's very dim and flickers when engine is at warm idle. And when engine RPM increases, the high beam light flickers and goes out. Very strange. I'll do more testing tomorrow to determine if its the bulb (high beam side), the high beam switch or some other root cause. Or, if its high beam must be wired to battery via relay. Thus, feeding it "cleaner / consistent" 12 volts flow.
At the high level, I do love LED lights in my Sled. They are brighter, I can see more accurate ground conditions and they are "friendly" on my eyes. re: Much less eye strain compared to yellowish halogen light bulbs. And, the LED (even in low beam mode) allowed me to see the moose on the trail.
More to come on my future testing...
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super1c
Super Moderator
I’ve found with the old 75 watt ignition system I could not get the HID’s to work. Just not enough juice to go around and you get a flicker. Seems your having the same symptoms. Even though they are LED it takes a lot to power the boards (ballast). I’m no electrician so I have no definitive answers other then trial and error. Even with e start and battery it didn’t work. The draw on battery was more then the charging system could handle. Eventually overheated stator and sled was done. Gave up trying with HID systems and the new LED systems work the same. A straight LED bulb may work but wouldn’t be a huge improvement for vision. A lot of trial and error and you may have better results then I did.
Jack99
Member
Discovered my Plan A LED bulb (see pictures above) is rated at 30 Watts. That's probably running 30 watts and higher watts for its initial start-up phase. Sad face.
Yes. My eyes love the bright white LEDs - much better than yellowish Halogen bulbs. Just like the LED lights in my vehicle as well.
Sounds like 75 Watt system is max - to power everything and also charge battery back up (after using its E-Start). Lets say 10 watts to re-charge its battery (via trickle charge pace), its 1175 Halogen bulb tail light takes 2.0-2.5 watts (for tail and brake light). That's 60ish remaining watts. Factory H4 halogen lights are 55/60 watts. 55 for low beam and 60 for high beam. This probably explains why my sled's H4 halogen headlight beams flickers when I use its brake handle - which lights up its rear brake light.
With above in mind, it sounds like I need to find an H4 LED headlight bulb that is bright (brighter than Halogen) but it takes less than 22 (or so) watts to power up. Think I will return my Plan A H4 LED bulb (rated at 30+startup Amps) and try my Plan B LED bulb (which uses 20 Watts) instead.
re Plan B LED bulb: https://www.amazon.ca/Safego-Motorc...UTF8&coliid=I12LHK4CJJV5IP&colid=4D7MF1HQMFAQ
And, also replace its rear 1157 halogen bulb with 1157 LED bulb as well. Hopefully, this will help (even if only a little) as well...
Yes. My eyes love the bright white LEDs - much better than yellowish Halogen bulbs. Just like the LED lights in my vehicle as well.
Sounds like 75 Watt system is max - to power everything and also charge battery back up (after using its E-Start). Lets say 10 watts to re-charge its battery (via trickle charge pace), its 1175 Halogen bulb tail light takes 2.0-2.5 watts (for tail and brake light). That's 60ish remaining watts. Factory H4 halogen lights are 55/60 watts. 55 for low beam and 60 for high beam. This probably explains why my sled's H4 halogen headlight beams flickers when I use its brake handle - which lights up its rear brake light.
With above in mind, it sounds like I need to find an H4 LED headlight bulb that is bright (brighter than Halogen) but it takes less than 22 (or so) watts to power up. Think I will return my Plan A H4 LED bulb (rated at 30+startup Amps) and try my Plan B LED bulb (which uses 20 Watts) instead.
re Plan B LED bulb: https://www.amazon.ca/Safego-Motorc...UTF8&coliid=I12LHK4CJJV5IP&colid=4D7MF1HQMFAQ
And, also replace its rear 1157 halogen bulb with 1157 LED bulb as well. Hopefully, this will help (even if only a little) as well...
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
You need to be dissipating at least 5 watts of heat to keep your taillight clear of snow. Failure to do this will get you @ss ended. Get red ones!!!!! White light+red lens=pink. Something like this is fine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-BAY15D-...626917?hash=item339f8504a5:g:fygAAOSwv0tVCq8w
LED dash lights can save a few watts as well. Every little bit adds up. They are a T10 base. Red sled---red dash. Blue sled--blue dash. I even put green dash lights in a ditch pickle. And no... it was NOT mine. I believe this is what I'm running.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-X-Ice-B...903955&hash=item3ab19e6eb5:g:vukAAOSwrhBZI8RE
In post #18 is what I did to my sons sled. This was before LEDs were offered in any wattage you could think of. All of the LEDs in that post probably total 5 watt.
FYI --- a stock incandescent 1157 is dissipating 8 watt of heat on low. 27(?) when on the brake.
https://totallyamaha.net/showthread.php/82354-LED-Tail-Light-Options?highlight=Tailight+t10
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-BAY15D-...626917?hash=item339f8504a5:g:fygAAOSwv0tVCq8w
LED dash lights can save a few watts as well. Every little bit adds up. They are a T10 base. Red sled---red dash. Blue sled--blue dash. I even put green dash lights in a ditch pickle. And no... it was NOT mine. I believe this is what I'm running.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-X-Ice-B...903955&hash=item3ab19e6eb5:g:vukAAOSwrhBZI8RE
In post #18 is what I did to my sons sled. This was before LEDs were offered in any wattage you could think of. All of the LEDs in that post probably total 5 watt.
FYI --- a stock incandescent 1157 is dissipating 8 watt of heat on low. 27(?) when on the brake.
https://totallyamaha.net/showthread.php/82354-LED-Tail-Light-Options?highlight=Tailight+t10
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super1c
Super Moderator
What about the PIAA bulbs i see some guys running? Never used but i see them being used here. ROC from yamaheater says to keep bulb at around 4500K for snow conditions. You should call them and talk with him. He knows a ton about these lights and is a great guy to talk with. His website is yamaheater or call him at 260-710-7623.
Jack99
Member
Since my last post, I've learned and done lots.
Learned:
- My electrician buddy told me that one should never have max wattage load majority of the time. For example, a 110/120 volt at max 15 Amp should be purposely loaded with max 9 amps. The remaining available amps is used for device's initial startup demand. If one purposely loads at 14.9 amps and all devices turn on at same time, then all their "start ups" amp draw over stresses the source. And in some cases it will flip a breaker. Or, "burn out" in some other areas. He explained one should follow the < 80% rule. <75% normal running load is even better. This makes sense to me.
- The rear tail light's 1157 Halogen bulb has 8/28 Watts load numbers. Some sites show 8/23 watts. I assume 8 watts is for running light (which is always on) and the 23-28 range is watts for when its brake light is enabled. At average 25 watts of activation, it explains why my front headlight does a `dim down` behavior. Especially if max watts is 75 and front light running load is at 50 watts (on H4 Halogen low beam setting).
- above numbers don't include watts load for dash lights (like the High Beam's little dash bulb) or front hand/thumb warmers or rear hand/thumb wares or the wattage draw that trickle charges its on-board battery (for last E-Start recharge need).
With above in mind, I returned my previously bought 30W/30W H4 LED bulb. re: My Plan A LED bulb. I love its low beam brightness but felt even at 30W usage, it was over stressing its 60W (using < 80% rule) system. I bought a 1175 LED bulb instead. This one has 3W/3W rating. It should arrive in 4-6 weeks (due to my north region). I also bought a different H4 LED bulb with fan - that is rated for 20W. And, I also bought a H4 LED bulb "without" fan - that's 18W. Both of these LED bulbs are rated for motorcycle H4 bulb road usage. Will try both of these front headlight LED bulbs - to see which one is better (for my sled).
For now, I'll re-install front factory H4 bulb halogen and rear 1157 Halogen bulb and continue to tolerate their yellowish light beam colour. With these bulbs, I'll do a couple more dark bush tours - before my winter snow season ends. And this spring (in May-June), I will test my newly ordered LED Bulbs. Hopefully, these "on order" LED "lower wattage" bulbs will work. And, give me the desired brighter and more white light - that are friendly on my eyes.
More to come in spring time...
Learned:
- My electrician buddy told me that one should never have max wattage load majority of the time. For example, a 110/120 volt at max 15 Amp should be purposely loaded with max 9 amps. The remaining available amps is used for device's initial startup demand. If one purposely loads at 14.9 amps and all devices turn on at same time, then all their "start ups" amp draw over stresses the source. And in some cases it will flip a breaker. Or, "burn out" in some other areas. He explained one should follow the < 80% rule. <75% normal running load is even better. This makes sense to me.
- The rear tail light's 1157 Halogen bulb has 8/28 Watts load numbers. Some sites show 8/23 watts. I assume 8 watts is for running light (which is always on) and the 23-28 range is watts for when its brake light is enabled. At average 25 watts of activation, it explains why my front headlight does a `dim down` behavior. Especially if max watts is 75 and front light running load is at 50 watts (on H4 Halogen low beam setting).
- above numbers don't include watts load for dash lights (like the High Beam's little dash bulb) or front hand/thumb warmers or rear hand/thumb wares or the wattage draw that trickle charges its on-board battery (for last E-Start recharge need).
With above in mind, I returned my previously bought 30W/30W H4 LED bulb. re: My Plan A LED bulb. I love its low beam brightness but felt even at 30W usage, it was over stressing its 60W (using < 80% rule) system. I bought a 1175 LED bulb instead. This one has 3W/3W rating. It should arrive in 4-6 weeks (due to my north region). I also bought a different H4 LED bulb with fan - that is rated for 20W. And, I also bought a H4 LED bulb "without" fan - that's 18W. Both of these LED bulbs are rated for motorcycle H4 bulb road usage. Will try both of these front headlight LED bulbs - to see which one is better (for my sled).
For now, I'll re-install front factory H4 bulb halogen and rear 1157 Halogen bulb and continue to tolerate their yellowish light beam colour. With these bulbs, I'll do a couple more dark bush tours - before my winter snow season ends. And this spring (in May-June), I will test my newly ordered LED Bulbs. Hopefully, these "on order" LED "lower wattage" bulbs will work. And, give me the desired brighter and more white light - that are friendly on my eyes.
More to come in spring time...
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Jack99
Member
Update 2019-03-16:
Received H4 20W LED bulb from Amazon this AM and installed it. re: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For visual, see below pictures. With this Plan B bulb, both LOW and HIGH Beams work great. Unlike my Plan A LED bulb (at 30W), this Plan B LED (at 20W) can easily switch from LOW to HIGH beam usage with ease. Will check this 20W LED bulb for brightness "on the trail" next winter. In my region, sledding is done for this year (unless we get a surprise snow dump).
Notes:
- This Plan B H4 LED bulb is rated at 2,000 Lumen. Factory H4 Halogen bulb is rated at 1100-1500 Lumen. I read someone stating H4 is as low as 800 lms. Stats wise, the LED is brighter. Only time will tell with future infield comparison (for my dark bush trails).
- If buying from USA, remember to shop on Amazon.com site. Products like this are always more expensive in Canada. (sad face).
For its tail light, I'm still waiting for my recently ordered 1157 LED 3W bulbs to arrive. Yes, bulbs. I ordered 2 different LED designs (both rated at 3W) to see which one is better. Will replace its factory 1157 halogen bulb (at 8/27W) in a few months. Then, use the one bulb with best results. re: I read that some 1157 LED bulbs (especially red bulb on red lens) used for brake light are too dim during the daytime. Thus, I bought the 1157 LED white bulb rated for Reverse light brightness usage. Only time will tell in this area.
Hope this helps others..
Received H4 20W LED bulb from Amazon this AM and installed it. re: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 For visual, see below pictures. With this Plan B bulb, both LOW and HIGH Beams work great. Unlike my Plan A LED bulb (at 30W), this Plan B LED (at 20W) can easily switch from LOW to HIGH beam usage with ease. Will check this 20W LED bulb for brightness "on the trail" next winter. In my region, sledding is done for this year (unless we get a surprise snow dump).
Notes:
- This Plan B H4 LED bulb is rated at 2,000 Lumen. Factory H4 Halogen bulb is rated at 1100-1500 Lumen. I read someone stating H4 is as low as 800 lms. Stats wise, the LED is brighter. Only time will tell with future infield comparison (for my dark bush trails).
- If buying from USA, remember to shop on Amazon.com site. Products like this are always more expensive in Canada. (sad face).
For its tail light, I'm still waiting for my recently ordered 1157 LED 3W bulbs to arrive. Yes, bulbs. I ordered 2 different LED designs (both rated at 3W) to see which one is better. Will replace its factory 1157 halogen bulb (at 8/27W) in a few months. Then, use the one bulb with best results. re: I read that some 1157 LED bulbs (especially red bulb on red lens) used for brake light are too dim during the daytime. Thus, I bought the 1157 LED white bulb rated for Reverse light brightness usage. Only time will tell in this area.
Hope this helps others..
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
I admire your tenacity. But I'll bet they will not be enough on the trail. Behind the garage shining on the door ..... sure. I've spent money in the hundreds on led shtuff.
Jack99
Member
Spend hundreds in the past? WOW!
I've only Spent $30 (product + taxes) on my front headlight bulb and rear bulb being buys from e-bay, they cost me under $10. In all, $50 spend for LED upgrades. If I lived in USA, bet my cost would be even less.
Before buying the front headlight LED bulb (as plan B bulb), I did lots of review research. Majority of buyers feel the H4 20W LED bulb is brighter and better than H4 Halogen bulb. To validate yourself, surf many review of https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In the end, I'm hoping H4 LED technology has come a long way - since you did your high cost LED bulb upgrades...
I've only Spent $30 (product + taxes) on my front headlight bulb and rear bulb being buys from e-bay, they cost me under $10. In all, $50 spend for LED upgrades. If I lived in USA, bet my cost would be even less.
Before buying the front headlight LED bulb (as plan B bulb), I did lots of review research. Majority of buyers feel the H4 20W LED bulb is brighter and better than H4 Halogen bulb. To validate yourself, surf many review of https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C1AOSVS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In the end, I'm hoping H4 LED technology has come a long way - since you did your high cost LED bulb upgrades...
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A couple of bucks
VIP Member
Yes .... in USD. I am thru scr€wing around w/ led headlights. Plain Jane, ol reliable incandescents for me.
Jack99
Member
No worries. I understand. That's my Plan C as well. re: If my Plan B LED bulb burns out or isn't better on the dark trails (for me and my non-blue eyes), I'll roll-back to factory Halogen bulbs as well. $50 CDN (including taxes) is my max spend in this area.
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