Coutter67
New member
Hi, I’m new to this site. I have a 2003 sx viper 700. I’m getting intermittent tach and fuel gauge issues where they flash on and off. Sometimes at idle the display will shut down completely until the rpm’s are raised. I have also noticed that activating the high beams or brakes will cause this as well. Other people have posted that chafing wires are an issue with these sleds. Is there a way to rule out the regulator/rectifier and smoothing condenser. Thanks
Have you checked for a harness rub through under the motor?
Those item are rarely the problem, like Mr. Sled said, sounds like text book rub through on wire harness.
s10mike
Member
If your wiring harness is good, i would suspect that your stator (generator) is going bad. You can test it with an ohm meter.
mod-it
Member
My 03 Mnt. Viper had those symptoms and it ended up being the stator. High/low beam change would cause the gauge pod to go blank and the tach would reset like when first starting, hitting brake would do the same. My hand warmers also quit getting warm, and with them turned on the sled would bog around 7k rpm. Turn warmers off, no bog, turn them back on and bog...too much load on the weak stator.
Since checking for rubs is cheaper than buying a stator, most will check that first...but my money is on the stator if the sled still has the original one in it. I've read of many 02 & 03 vipers losing the original stator. The replacement from the dealer has a slightly different part number, so that indicates to me that they changed something. Common rub areas are the harness under the motor and I believe behind the left footwell area. Removing the harness under the motor is much easier to do with the pipe removed IMO. Unhook at the front end, reach under and bend up the little keeper tabs, tie a string to it so it can be pulled back through when reinstalling, and then pull it up and out by the antifreeze fill. Inspect for any spots in the insulation that are rubbed to bare wire. Individually tape up each wire that has damaged insulation (I didn't find any on my sled). It is a good idea to put some automotive wire loom over the whole thing to protect it when reinstalling.
Stator:
You can try running it with the headlights unhooked and even tail lights to see if that stops the tach reset issues. This removes load from the stator and a lot of time shows that the stator is weak if it cures the issues. There are also ohm checks that can be done to indicate if they are bad ( I didn't bother). I gave about $200 for my stator 8-10 years ago at the dealer. It requires a fly wheel puller and my dealer was willing to loan me one of theirs since I bought the stator from them. You'll need a buddy to put a bar through the primary to hold it while you're breaking it loose on the stator side. The hardest part of changing it is getting the Phillips head screws out of the, if memory serves me, pickup coil. The heads are very soft and strip easily. I highly recommend getting an impact driver that perfectly fits them to get them out. Many, many people end up stripping them...get the impact driver.
Since checking for rubs is cheaper than buying a stator, most will check that first...but my money is on the stator if the sled still has the original one in it. I've read of many 02 & 03 vipers losing the original stator. The replacement from the dealer has a slightly different part number, so that indicates to me that they changed something. Common rub areas are the harness under the motor and I believe behind the left footwell area. Removing the harness under the motor is much easier to do with the pipe removed IMO. Unhook at the front end, reach under and bend up the little keeper tabs, tie a string to it so it can be pulled back through when reinstalling, and then pull it up and out by the antifreeze fill. Inspect for any spots in the insulation that are rubbed to bare wire. Individually tape up each wire that has damaged insulation (I didn't find any on my sled). It is a good idea to put some automotive wire loom over the whole thing to protect it when reinstalling.
Stator:
You can try running it with the headlights unhooked and even tail lights to see if that stops the tach reset issues. This removes load from the stator and a lot of time shows that the stator is weak if it cures the issues. There are also ohm checks that can be done to indicate if they are bad ( I didn't bother). I gave about $200 for my stator 8-10 years ago at the dealer. It requires a fly wheel puller and my dealer was willing to loan me one of theirs since I bought the stator from them. You'll need a buddy to put a bar through the primary to hold it while you're breaking it loose on the stator side. The hardest part of changing it is getting the Phillips head screws out of the, if memory serves me, pickup coil. The heads are very soft and strip easily. I highly recommend getting an impact driver that perfectly fits them to get them out. Many, many people end up stripping them...get the impact driver.
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Tapping a screwdriver with a hammer while turning it works very well too.
Coutter67
New member
Thanks for in info gents, since we are losing our snow I have lots of time to trouble shoot. I’ll update what I find. Thanks again��
Coutter67
New member
Sorry,I haven't updated this post yet. Changed out the stator last week and the symptoms with the gauge cutting out stopped. I want to thank everyone who responded. I will also check wiring harness this spring and protect it from rubbing through. Thanks again
Coutter67
New member
After a ride this week the Tach issues seem to be resolved but my gas gauge blinks when tank is full. Once the fuel gauge drops the flashing stops and gauge functions normally. I thought this may have been part of the original electrical issues involving the stator. Any ideas? Thanks
Fuel sender in tank.
Coutter67
New member
Ok thanks