I installed a LED headlight in my 98 SRX 700 (no battery or electric start) after doing the same on my 2009 ski doo and a phazer and really liking the results. It worked great for about 50 miles and then the electric system started acting up. The head light would start flashing, working in and out and I found it only would work if I lightly held the brake and activated the brake light. I was worried I had fried something but after replacing it with the stock bulb it worked fine for the rest of last winter. 2 questions. Does the electric system need the headlight to be a halogen bulb for the resistance or something? Is there anything that can be done? I see they offer a warning light canceler/capacitor in the check out options. Or maybe did I just have a bad LED bulb. It was a 2 pack so I do still have another I could try but don't want to do damage to the system. Thanks in advance.
Mike
Mike
I am horrible with electronics....but, I think your headlight is AC, whereas Led lights are DC.
There is clean DC voltage on a SX I know, as I tied into it on mine. Maybe someone can chime in if a SRX has the same wire.
Mine was in the right footwell, brown wire, unused. It’s the harness for the reverse buzzer.
I took that and wired it to the hi/low switch.
There is clean DC voltage on a SX I know, as I tied into it on mine. Maybe someone can chime in if a SRX has the same wire.
Mine was in the right footwell, brown wire, unused. It’s the harness for the reverse buzzer.
I took that and wired it to the hi/low switch.
got-wood
New member
I'll be watching this closely. I just ordered a two pack of LED's for my 98 SRX. I plan on using the one for the time being but have a double bulb headlight on the way and was planning on running the pair.
super1c
Super Moderator
Did u buy just the bulb or the Cree LED’s with ballast and heat sink. Most likely if bulb overheating or simply not getting a clean power source after stator heats up. Other issue is your brake effects it. Check entire wire harness for rub through. Common with these sleds. This will also cause erratic power. The plain LED bulbs just don’t cut it for seeing. They look nice and white but don’t throw the light worth anything. Check with roc from rocztoyz. He’s a Yamaha guy and makes nice LED set ups for these sleds. Only way to go.
Also, need to keep the wattage low, like the stock 55/60 watt build, anything higher than that will cause problems.
It is a high quality bulb with the heat sink, fins and ballast. 55 watts which is the same as the halogen I took out I believe. It's the same bulb that the guys are selling for 2x's as much on these sites. Very nice and like I said same as the ones installed on other sleds that threw 2xs the light compared to the old ones. When it was working for the first 50 miles or so on the SRX it too was great and twice the light and quality of the old halogen. The brake light thing is only a result of using the led headlight. Once the standard halogen light went back in, everything was fine.
I would try feeding it DC voltage, if somebody could help out with which wire it is on a SRX.
got-wood
New member
I bought the kit from ROYAL DISTRIBUTING. LED CONVERSION KIT, CREE LED's. They are 28W per bulb. I spoke with HEWLTECH ELECTRONICS and they said it should be okay running two of them on the stock stator.
x2. it took over 5 seasons for the ones i got from rock to finally burn out on my et410 that only has 12v ac.
super1c
Super Moderator
I know this may not seem right but I bet your problem is that they are 55 watt. The stator cannot keep up and heats up. As it heats up it cannot keep ballast charged and then blink. Eventually the stator will heat up enough and short itself out. Once stator cools will work fine again. Had same problem on my 98 xt. 55 watts just too much constant draw even though stock bulb works fine. These bulbs will work fine on AC. Just not enough power generated to keep them going.
super1c
Super Moderator
Also can’t remember off top of head. Did the 98 single bulb SRX have the old 75 watt ignition system over the newer dual bulb 300 watt ignition system? If so no way to keep a 55 watt Cree LED going. Maybe a 35 watt 4500k LED.
Yes, it’s got the old 75 watt. But, the factory headlight bulb is 55 watt.
super1c
Super Moderator
That explains it then, Stator not strong enough. I’m not a electrician so I have no idea how to explain the Cree LED. Yes the watt is the same, but they work totally different. The LED bulb itself requires very little draw, it’s the ballast that is power hungry. Same as HID which draws very little power. It’s the ballast that gets ya. It was explained to me by some very smart people here at one time when I was trying to do this exact thing with my 98. I even had a battery e start so I could cheat it a bit longer when trying HID’s, the LEDs were plug and play. But the LED or HID ballast would drain battery faster then it could charge battery. Stator would heat up, swell and short out eventually. The 35 watt system will work, this is what roc uses and it will work on older ignition systems. It just is hard on them old stators. New 300 watt system can handle no problem
got-wood
New member
I'm not an electrical guy either, but that seems like a bad stator. I was told that the stator has extra capacity to handle bar warmers and such, so it seems to me it must be bad if won't handle the draw from the single bulb. HEWLTECH or RM STATOR can rebuild your stock stator to better than OEM or you might try a pair of these 28W bulbs royal sells. Sure hope I'm gonna be good to go.
Jack99
Member
Most 12 Volt LED lights are made for "DC" (direct current). Many older age snowmobile factory headlight systems are "AC" power. And, many LED "DC" bulbs don't like AC. Especially in the long run. I know the 12 volt DC LEDs I tried on my sled's 12 volt AC electrical system didn't work very well.
For the LED upgrade kit bought at ROYAL DISTRIBUTING. re: "LED CONVERSION KIT", do ask if their system is 12 Volt DC or AC Power system. Remember to ask the right questions - to get the right needed answer. And if wondering, many sales people don't know the difference between 12 Volt AC and DC power. They only read text off their computer screens. Like: Made for 12 Volt systems.
For your sled.....
Recommend finding "DC" power source on your Sled. For example, brown wire off its reverse buzzer (assume your sled has reverse).
If DC does NOT exist, research:
Option A - 40 Watts or less 12 Volt LED "AC" bulbs. Hard to find but I read they do exist.
Option B - Install 3rd party Regulator / Rectifier - to make 12 Volt "DC" power. re: Buy/Install a 12 Volt Regulator / Rectifier (converts 12 volt AC to 12 volt DC) into your sled.
Notes:
- When looking at LED DC bulbs for sleds and motorcycles, recommend ones rated for 12-24 Volt bulbs. Being higher volt ratings, they tend to tolerate up/down voltage flexes - compared to `12V` only rated LED bulbs.
- For 12 volt wire gauge size, always best to math calculate watts usage (AMPs usage) and "next size up" its wire gauge size. re: If thin 16 gauge wire is needed, then use thicker 14 gauge wire instead.
- For 12 Volt DC "amp" size fuse, one can use max Watts / 12 (volts) = Amps (then round up to next availble fuse size). In reality, one should use an inline volt meter to measure "real usage" of its Amps/watts usage. Many 12 volt DC LEDs operate between 75% -> 90% of its listed Max watts usage. re: LED 35 Watt bulb often uses under 27 watts.
- For me, I don't focus on Watts or Amps. The secret to better (more) lighting is focusing on LMs (or Lumens) of a single bulb. Higher the LM number, the more output lighting. For example, H4 Halogen 55/60W bulb = 1100-1500 lumens. H4 LED 30/30W bulb = "up to" 3,000 LMs. Note: Different LMs from different LED Chips.
- For watts, I like to stay under factory Watts size. Since factory front Halogen light is 55/60W, I like using 20W or 30W LED bulbs. Thus, leaving extra remaining watts for other things - like handle grip warmers.
Hope this helps.
For the LED upgrade kit bought at ROYAL DISTRIBUTING. re: "LED CONVERSION KIT", do ask if their system is 12 Volt DC or AC Power system. Remember to ask the right questions - to get the right needed answer. And if wondering, many sales people don't know the difference between 12 Volt AC and DC power. They only read text off their computer screens. Like: Made for 12 Volt systems.
For your sled.....
Recommend finding "DC" power source on your Sled. For example, brown wire off its reverse buzzer (assume your sled has reverse).
If DC does NOT exist, research:
Option A - 40 Watts or less 12 Volt LED "AC" bulbs. Hard to find but I read they do exist.
Option B - Install 3rd party Regulator / Rectifier - to make 12 Volt "DC" power. re: Buy/Install a 12 Volt Regulator / Rectifier (converts 12 volt AC to 12 volt DC) into your sled.
Notes:
- When looking at LED DC bulbs for sleds and motorcycles, recommend ones rated for 12-24 Volt bulbs. Being higher volt ratings, they tend to tolerate up/down voltage flexes - compared to `12V` only rated LED bulbs.
- For 12 volt wire gauge size, always best to math calculate watts usage (AMPs usage) and "next size up" its wire gauge size. re: If thin 16 gauge wire is needed, then use thicker 14 gauge wire instead.
- For 12 Volt DC "amp" size fuse, one can use max Watts / 12 (volts) = Amps (then round up to next availble fuse size). In reality, one should use an inline volt meter to measure "real usage" of its Amps/watts usage. Many 12 volt DC LEDs operate between 75% -> 90% of its listed Max watts usage. re: LED 35 Watt bulb often uses under 27 watts.
- For me, I don't focus on Watts or Amps. The secret to better (more) lighting is focusing on LMs (or Lumens) of a single bulb. Higher the LM number, the more output lighting. For example, H4 Halogen 55/60W bulb = 1100-1500 lumens. H4 LED 30/30W bulb = "up to" 3,000 LMs. Note: Different LMs from different LED Chips.
- For watts, I like to stay under factory Watts size. Since factory front Halogen light is 55/60W, I like using 20W or 30W LED bulbs. Thus, leaving extra remaining watts for other things - like handle grip warmers.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the info Jack. I would have never thought the Power was a AC source.
So halogen bulbs have no issue running AC or DC current?
Jack99
Member
12 volt DC Halogen bulbs have NO issues with 12 Volt AC power. They love 12 Volt DC power source as well.
12 Volt LED bulbs listed as DC 12 volts love DC power. But, don't work "properly" using 12 Volt AC power. They flicker and when used too long, they tend to do weird things - like won't turn back on. And, could even "back feed" in the sleds electrical system - which could make it act weird as well.
Simple test on one's sofa chair (or kitchen table).
Take 2 x 9V batteries (found in kid's toys and/or smoke detector devices) and connect them together. One battery's + post to the other battery's - post. Thus, creating 1 x larger logical battery that is 18 Volts (DC). No worries. This is combo is low amps and won't hurt short time testing of 12 Volt DC bulbs.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "-" post to base of 1156 or 1157 halogen bulb.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "+" post to the light bulb's contract tip. Halogen bulb lights up.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "+" post to base of 1156 or 1157 halogen bulb.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "-" post to the light bulb's contract tip. Halogen bulb lights up.
Above tests proves that Halogen bulbs work properly when current flow goes in either direction. Which is 12 Volt AC power flows in very slow motion.
Do the same above test using 1156 or 1157 12 Volt LED bulb. Can even do it with a 12 volt LED auto light - if you have one of these instead.
For this test, you'll confirm that LED "DC" rated bulbs only light up properly when current flow is in the proper direction. When little alligator clamps flow DC power in other (not normal / opposite) direction, the LED bulb won't light up. If wondering, DC current flow in opposite direction is simulating "slow motion" 12 Volts AC power. Thus, why Sled's 12 Volt AC system with 12 volt DC light bulbs "flickers" when engine RPM is at idle.
Solution (using AC current flow): Leave factory H4 Halopgen bulbs - which are low LMs (brightness) using yellowing tint lighting.
Other solution (using DC current flow): Convert to 12 Volt DC power (like using brown wire from reverse buzzer) and use LED 12 Volt - for motorcycles. Thus, getting much more LMs (brightness) for much less watts usage. And, whiter lighting (which is better on some people's eyes). See below for picture of DC solution (if your Sled has a Reverse Buzzer wire).
Hope this helps as well...
12 Volt LED bulbs listed as DC 12 volts love DC power. But, don't work "properly" using 12 Volt AC power. They flicker and when used too long, they tend to do weird things - like won't turn back on. And, could even "back feed" in the sleds electrical system - which could make it act weird as well.
Simple test on one's sofa chair (or kitchen table).
Take 2 x 9V batteries (found in kid's toys and/or smoke detector devices) and connect them together. One battery's + post to the other battery's - post. Thus, creating 1 x larger logical battery that is 18 Volts (DC). No worries. This is combo is low amps and won't hurt short time testing of 12 Volt DC bulbs.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "-" post to base of 1156 or 1157 halogen bulb.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "+" post to the light bulb's contract tip. Halogen bulb lights up.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "+" post to base of 1156 or 1157 halogen bulb.
Using little wire and small alligator clamps on each end, connect exposed "-" post to the light bulb's contract tip. Halogen bulb lights up.
Above tests proves that Halogen bulbs work properly when current flow goes in either direction. Which is 12 Volt AC power flows in very slow motion.
Do the same above test using 1156 or 1157 12 Volt LED bulb. Can even do it with a 12 volt LED auto light - if you have one of these instead.
For this test, you'll confirm that LED "DC" rated bulbs only light up properly when current flow is in the proper direction. When little alligator clamps flow DC power in other (not normal / opposite) direction, the LED bulb won't light up. If wondering, DC current flow in opposite direction is simulating "slow motion" 12 Volts AC power. Thus, why Sled's 12 Volt AC system with 12 volt DC light bulbs "flickers" when engine RPM is at idle.
Solution (using AC current flow): Leave factory H4 Halopgen bulbs - which are low LMs (brightness) using yellowing tint lighting.
Other solution (using DC current flow): Convert to 12 Volt DC power (like using brown wire from reverse buzzer) and use LED 12 Volt - for motorcycles. Thus, getting much more LMs (brightness) for much less watts usage. And, whiter lighting (which is better on some people's eyes). See below for picture of DC solution (if your Sled has a Reverse Buzzer wire).
Hope this helps as well...
Attachments
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Jack99
Member
Forgot to mention....
Do the same tests (using a simple halogen bulb and LED DC bulb) on your sled's front light wiring socket. re: Unplug the H4 connector and using little short wires, connect to your test bulbs (held in your hand). At the H4 socket, remember that Black wire is ground, green wire is LOW beam and Yellow wire is High Beam. If your LED DC bulb flickers at engine idle RPM, it means 12 Volt AC power is being sent to the front head light. If connected same LED bulb to DC source, there is NO flicker. And, no risk of "back feed" risk into factory electrical system.
Hope this helps as well.
Do the same tests (using a simple halogen bulb and LED DC bulb) on your sled's front light wiring socket. re: Unplug the H4 connector and using little short wires, connect to your test bulbs (held in your hand). At the H4 socket, remember that Black wire is ground, green wire is LOW beam and Yellow wire is High Beam. If your LED DC bulb flickers at engine idle RPM, it means 12 Volt AC power is being sent to the front head light. If connected same LED bulb to DC source, there is NO flicker. And, no risk of "back feed" risk into factory electrical system.
Hope this helps as well.
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Jack, I can install a HID xenon setup that use a AC Driver, correct? Thus getting the white light and using let input at 35 watts? Like this:
https://www.xenonpro.com/h4-dual-beam-hi-low-xenon-hid-headlights-kit
They say they have a AC ballast
Thanks in advance
https://www.xenonpro.com/h4-dual-beam-hi-low-xenon-hid-headlights-kit
They say they have a AC ballast
Thanks in advance