rudim_86
New member
Hello, I am trying to remove the main nozzle from my 97 700 SX carburetor but am unsure how much work I'm getting myself into. I need to remove the main nozzles and put them in a new set of carbs. Attached is the picture of what I'm calling the main nozzle, the brass cylinder around the needle. Also attached is an exploded view I found. The part in this exploded view is #23. Any guidance on this would be greatly appreciated, I don't want to mess any synching up but I need to take them out.
Thanks.
Thanks.
shaggyzr2
Active member
Pull the slide out and the nozzle will fall out
To get the slide and needle out:
-remove the top of the carb
-reach down with a fairly long allen wrench to remove the two screws that hold the slide to the throttle shaft arm
-remove the screw that goes through the throttle shaft and secures the slide arm from turning on the throttle shaft
-flip the aluminum throttle shaft arm up towards the top of carb
-remove carb slide and needle out of the top of the carb
-the needle jets can now be slid upwards and removed
-remove the top of the carb
-reach down with a fairly long allen wrench to remove the two screws that hold the slide to the throttle shaft arm
-remove the screw that goes through the throttle shaft and secures the slide arm from turning on the throttle shaft
-flip the aluminum throttle shaft arm up towards the top of carb
-remove carb slide and needle out of the top of the carb
-the needle jets can now be slid upwards and removed
If new ones are available get them, as the holes wear at the top causing horrible fuel economy. Also note the PTO side is bigger, just like the main jet.
Boy, that is one part of the carbs that I did not consider being different.
But you are correct.
That may be why my EGT's constantly say my PTO is 200 to 300 degrees cooler on the PTO side.
But you are correct.
That may be why my EGT's constantly say my PTO is 200 to 300 degrees cooler on the PTO side.
Instead of starting a new thread I'll reply here. Silly question, but do you need to disassemble this linkage every time? These allen screws are a pain, I'm not sure how I got these 2 out (other carbs I left them in the bracket part because I couldn't pull them out) but it's like they are too big to fit past the linkage to get in there. I've tried rotating it all around, would rather avoid taking that apart as the tiny clip and washers look like they'd be easily lost.
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Unless I am misunderstanding you, there should be no reason to need to get the screw out of that body. Loosen them up and pull the whole unit out as one.
You need to take the small allen head out. Best tool for that is a 2.5 mm allen head screwdriver.
Makes it very easy.
That linkage you have the pic of, just slides on and off the arm. Nothing else required.
So, with throttle in resting position, remove allen head screw. Then open the throttle half way or better and you will be able to slide that whole assembly over off the arm. Then you will still have the needle in at the bottom of the carb. Watch for washers that stick to the bottom of the arm assembly. You should have 2 washers on each needle somewhere.
Makes it very easy.
That linkage you have the pic of, just slides on and off the arm. Nothing else required.
So, with throttle in resting position, remove allen head screw. Then open the throttle half way or better and you will be able to slide that whole assembly over off the arm. Then you will still have the needle in at the bottom of the carb. Watch for washers that stick to the bottom of the arm assembly. You should have 2 washers on each needle somewhere.
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Ok, I'm putting them back together so I have the needle and slides out already. I'm just finding on this one carb I took the allen head screws totally out (whereas on the other 2 I left them in loose), now I can't seem to get them back in because the head hits the linkage. I might just have to take that one apart (not sure how I got them out in the firat place...)
For example this photo shows one of the other carbs where the screw I left on.
Edit: I guess it sounds like a silly question, obviously if I can't get push the screw past the linkage to get it back in I'll have to take it out. I guess I was just trying to see if people usually take that linkage off to get better access to the allens since they're blocked pretty good.
For example this photo shows one of the other carbs where the screw I left on.
Edit: I guess it sounds like a silly question, obviously if I can't get push the screw past the linkage to get it back in I'll have to take it out. I guess I was just trying to see if people usually take that linkage off to get better access to the allens since they're blocked pretty good.
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I have had many many needles out, never had any problem with getting the allen heads out. I just work the throttle and hold it where it will allow me to have the best access to the bolts. In the pic, you show the arm flipped up. I always have them down, as in their natural position when taking the allen heads out.
If you loosen the allen heads when carbs are shut, then manually open throttle, the assembly will lift off the needle, then just slide it off the shaft at the top with screws still in it. Goes back in same way.
If you loosen the allen heads when carbs are shut, then manually open throttle, the assembly will lift off the needle, then just slide it off the shaft at the top with screws still in it. Goes back in same way.
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My best success has been had by removing the screw on the throttle shaft and adjusting the slide around until the linkage is clear of the hex screw I am trying to take out. Should be no problem if you can freely move the slide up and down depending on your angle.
Alrighty, thanks for the tips guys, I'll play around with it some more tonight.
What MNMead said, screws can stay in holders.